EcoBoost Swap

fastpakr · Feb 10, 2016

stmitch said:
The one I linked to isn't just a long block. It's a complete engine with just 2k miles.

The description when you pull up the link states that it's just a long block:

This particular one is 2014 with 2 k miles ran and drove before we pulled it.
FOR SALE IS a LONG BLOCK ONLY ( no turbo, no intake manifold, no transmission, if you need a complete one or one with the transmission please email me).

stmitch · Feb 10, 2016

Ahhh. My bad. I didn't read the description. Good catch!

BlackBII · Feb 10, 2016

RioRanger505 said:
The way I see it, it'll be cheaper to do the EB as far as my situation. The Duratec I have has some valve noise, and 140k+ on it so I'd have to rebuild it anyway before doing a turbo. While rebuilding it, I might as well build it to handle decent power (450 wheel) so that would cost even more. Otherwise I'd be spending money to rebuild it, then build it up later. On the other hand, $2400 gets me a basically new engine and the standalone from ford. All I'll be missing is some fuel system changes, inter cooler, piping, and exhaust. If my engine was lower mileage or had no valve noise I'd have no issues doing the Duratec turbo set up.

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We're just trying to help you out bro. :icon_thumby:

Even with a rebuild, turboing your current Duratec will be the cheaper and easier option. While not exactly unique or different, it'll still make good power.

RioRanger505 · Feb 10, 2016

I know y'all are. [emoji4] I just mean, if I'm going to turbo my Duratec I'm not going to open it up and just put stock parts in there it would be crazy to pay someone to open it up twice. If I do the EB I won't have to build it up right away and upgrade the internals because it'll run boosted for a while before I want to do anything to it or run crazy amounts of boost. I know in the end it'll be more expensive, but initially it'll be cheaper. I do all these post from my iPhone, and I'm used to conveying my emotions through emojis so my posts may seem douchey and heartless until I can figure that out. [emoji23]

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85_Ranger4x4 · Feb 10, 2016

Go 3.5EB and end the debate. :icon_thumby:

RWD, in production for 5 years in best selling vehicle in US, pushing 400hp stock... what more do you want? :icon_confused:

bobbywalter · Feb 10, 2016

dont buy anything yet.

RioRanger505 · Feb 23, 2016

Good thing I didn't shell out for anything yet.

That happened. Hose busted off of the back of our washer and continually tried to fill for about an hour before we noticed. Carpet/padding needs to be replaced in multiple rooms, bottoms of the walls connecting the rooms is soggy, the basement electronics loved the water too. If I can save money up again I will return. Until then, I'll be driving my stock Duratec.

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stmitch · Feb 24, 2016

Sorry about the luck, but life can intervene and disrupt plans. It's a good thing you had some funds available. The truck can wait.

Sidenote: how are you liking the Duratec vs the old 3.0?

RioRanger505 · Feb 24, 2016

I like the Duratec much better. I think mainly because of the fact that it's manual but I've always liked lower powered vehicles that you have to wring out and be more technical vs. brute with your application of power.

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85_Ranger4x4 · Feb 25, 2016

That sucks.

I don't know if they are any better or not but I have the hoses on mine that are supposed to somehow know to shut off when they flow too much water (aka a hose blows)

If you didn't have them you might check into them. If you did have them... it wouldn't surprise me if they don't work. They sound kind of gimmicky but well worth it if they do work...

RioRanger505 · Feb 25, 2016

I don't have those hoses, I don't know how that would work but it seems cool. I think it was just years of the washer shaking and slowly working the drain hose loose.

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85_Ranger4x4 · Feb 25, 2016

I think they say you are supposed to replace them every so many years too.

hoosier1104 · Apr 6, 2016

How about a TT 20B? It will definitely be unique.

White11 · Sep 18, 2016

Great info here! My first post and I know I'm reviving an old thread but it's pertinent to my situation. My '11 has 175k miles and not enough power so this thread is perfect. I want a 3.5EB in my truck so badly but if I can turbo my 2.3 for less money & hassle then I'm all about it. I'm gathering info right now on what I'll need to do to get around 400/450 out of my truck.

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