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Need advice: Various electrical codes- Alternator?


BarnesAM

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I have a 97 ranger that has one problem that keeps dogging me: it keeps throwing out this P0340 code (camshaft position sensor). It get's horrible gas mileage for a 4cyl (about 18mpg, with 80% hwy), and its somewhat sluggish, especially when it's really warm outside. However, despite the code it idles great, runs smooth, and is completely reliable.

So far, I've replaced the sensor (didn't fix it), then I replaced the entire wire from plug to pcm (wire from a donor truck, tested good, and soldered in place), then when that didnt' fix it I replaced the PCM. THAT seemed to work great for about a week, as it had more giddy up then it's ever had before, and there were no codes for about that long. Today, however, the code returned, but this time with a couple new ones. Now it's also giving me P0351 and P0352, which indicates both coil packs are bad. The problem with these codes is it is still running and idling perfectly. So I'm starting to doubt the PCM knows the real source of the problem.

On another thread I read that sometimes an alternator going bad can cause erratic electrical signals through the system. I know the previous owner put in a rebuilt (not new) alternator about a year ago, so I've wondered if that may be causing the problem.

Anyone have any words of wisdom? I'm thinking I'll try the new alternator next, but hate spending another $100 to throw parts at the problem if its not going to fix it.
 
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tomw

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You may be able to check alternator output using a VOM. Put the VOM into AC current mode, and connect to the ground/+. Set voltage high and work your way down.
If you get AC, it is called 'ripple' if it is minimal, but if more than a little voltage, your alternator 'diode array' may have some failures going on that allow AC voltage into your system. BTW, I hear that will cook a battery, so I'd check.
You have an OBD-II system on a 97 model, so you should be able to connect a scan tool to watch what is going on with the systems involved. Get the Forscan software and a scan tool that will work with it. Connect, and use your phone or laptop, or even desktop to run the software and inspect what the computer thinks is going on. You can readily check volts, fuel pressure(maybe), long and short-term fuel trims, IAC commanded and reported position, EGR function, and a bazillion other things. You can also see what the cam position sensor is reporting, and whether it 'syncs' with the crankshaft position sensor(they should line up every other crank revolution, more or less, but for sure be synched as far as signal frequency) etc etc etc
tom
 

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Thanks Tom. I do have a multimeter tool. I'll check the alternator next, as you suggested. I'm a very experienced DIY hobby mechanic (I rescued this ranger from the junkyard, rebuilt motor and restored and painted body/interior) but electrical stuff is still a weakness for me.

Another interesting feature I discovered today is the codes only come on right at startup. If I plug my OBD code reader in right after startup, the codes have reappeared. If I then clear the codes the truck runs great and stays code-free the entire time I run the truck, no matter how long that is (ran it for 2 hours in one stretch today). If I shut the truck down, then start it again, it will throw those 3 codes again (cam pos sensor, and 2 coil packs). If I repeat by clearing those codes it runs code-free again for the duration. I rescaned several times while running it, and it stays code-free until the next shut-down and startup cycle.

Also- thanks for suggesting forscan. I hadn't heard of it before, but I checked it out online. Looks cool! So I'll buy one of the connectors and try that out. My current code reader is just the basic (well, cost was $150 12 years ago- how technology changes!). I'll post progress in case others have suggestions, or in case this thread may help others in the future.
 
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tomw

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I got a "VINT-TT55501 ELM327 USB V1.5 modified for Ford ELMconfig CH340+258K80 chip HS-CAN/MS-CAN" from amazon. Sold by: BBFLY
It works with FORSCAN, as far as I can tell. Have not used much, except to check for codes and monitor for 'ready' on all systems so a SMOG check could be done. It was less than $19, and seems of reasonable quality.
I did NOT do anything with the small CD included, but went for FORSCAN before doing anything else. I don't know much about the CAN bus, except this one has a switch for HI and LO? speed buses, and it will prompt you to change the switch if needed to access the 'other' bus speed. (Bus?)
I will suggest USB as being a faster data transfer medium than bluetooth or wifi, but don't bet your paycheck. I would suggest NEVER try to record or watch data when you are driving. It CANNOT be done without ignoring driving, traffic, and you may end up in a ditch if you try. Set it up, push the 'record' and drive, stop record when desired. Stop the vehicle, and analyze the information. Or do what you will...
tom
 

BarnesAM

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I haven't checked the alternator ground yet, but I got a hold of an elm327 device, and bought the forscan app for my phone. The codes continue to set at startup, but they don't illuminate the CEL, and if I clear them after the engine is started, they down't reappear.

In monitoring the engine with forscan, I could not find where to look at the CPS data. Maybe I need to use a laptop? One big problem I did find, however, the long term fuel trim data shows it's running at +25 when idling (VERY high), which goes down to normal region (about +6.5) when the engine is reved to 1500 or more rpms. I've read this is a sign of a vacuum leak, so I checked every source of vacuum leaking I can find, and there does not seem to be a leak (no other symptoms of vacuum problems). Anybody have ideas what I should be looking at now? O2 sensor? MAF sensor? PCV? I already replaced the EGR a couple months ago, and it seems to be functioning fine.

I also noticed the upstream O2 sensor fluctuates wildly at idle, but never dips to 0 volts (which would be an obvious sign of a bad sensor). It'll go from .16 to .83, then back down within a 1-2 second span. The graph is a constant up/down, up/down. Not sure if this is normal behavior or not. The downstream stays pretty constant, with only gradual fluctuations.
 

RonD

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Computer needs to change fuel trims quickly at idle to keep Cat converters working, Cats need Rich mix to stay Hot
So upstream STFT should jump around

Yes +25 is too much

Best way to see if it is a vacuum leak is to warm up the engine and then let it idle
IAC(idle air control) Valve is on the upper intake, has 2 wire connector
Computer uses IAC Valve to set idle RPMs
If you unplug it's 2 wire connector while engine is warm and idling, IAC Valve will close and RPMs should drop to 500, engine may even stall, either is Good it means no vacuum leaks.

If idle doesn't drop then there is a leak

If idle does drop clean MAF sensor as first step

The +/- STFT is the Open time for the fuel injectors
The Computer calculates 0 STFT by air flow and air temp, and engine RPM and throttle position, it does this "on the fly", the computer is basically a large number calculator, not really a computer like we think of them.

Computer opens the injectors to let in the 0 STFT calculated amount of fuel
It then looks at upstream O2 sensor for the results
If Lean exhaust then computer sets +2 STFT, longer open time for injectors
If Rich exhaust then computer sets -2 STFT, less open time

Computer checks O2 again.............and it will keep changing fuel trim until exhaust shows good Oxygen level, .35-.45

If there is a vacuum leak then computer is basing 0 STFT on false data, unreported air is coming in
If MAF is dirty then it will under report air flow, so again bad data coming in

But on the other side of this equation is Fuel Pressure/Fuel Flow
1997 Ranger should be running about 35psi fuel pressure(1998 and up uses 60psi), computer has no fuel pressure sensor, it "assumes" 35psi
So if fuel filter is getting clogged up pressure may be dropping a bit under higher demand, and this would require computer to Open injectors longer(higher + number) than calculated because less fuel is flowing in when injectors are open.
So while high fuel trim numbers is usually about an air leak it can also be less fuel is flowing in from dirty injectors or fuel filter, even a weak fuel pump issue


Long term fuel trims(LTFT) are used when engine is cold, O2 sensors need to be above 650 degF to work
And LTFT is used to offset computers 0 STFT calculations
As vehicle gets older there will be small air leaks, injectors get dirty and fuel pressure will go down a bit, so the LTFT is used to keep engine working normally with normal wear and tear
 
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BarnesAM

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Thanks for the reply and the help on this issue. If I could ask some further help, I've got 2 questions below (and thanks in advance for our input/answers!). I tried unplugging the IAC as you suggested, and there was no change in the idle speed. I wasn't able to let it get all the way warmed up yet, just a few minutes of idling, so I'll try again tomorrow after I've had a chance to get it up to actual running temp, just to check again. However, I live in florida, and it's like 85 outside, so warming it up further likely won't change much, so I'll admit this is pointing to ward a vacuum leak.

So where should I look for vacuum leak problems?. I sprayed carb cleaner around potential leaking areas (intake manifold gaskets, vacuum hoses, egr, pcv) and no change at all. I then tried a little starting fluid (carefully) in a few spots, with no change. I checked the pcv, and it's functioning and sealing good. Brake booster hose is sealing tight too. Not sure where else to look.

As to other potential issues you mentioned- this truck is a little garage project of mine, sort of a labor of love (cuz I'll never get my money back out of it), so I've actually replaced a lot of stuff, including the fuel pump and filter (I used Bosch), and it actually runs great, so I'm doubting there's a fuel pressure issue. The injectors could be faulty though. The truck has 230k on it, and although I did an overhaul on the motor less than 3k ago, I reused the old injectors.

Regarding my original post as to the camshaft position sensor code I keep getting, I'm not real sure what to do with that. Again, the truck runs perfect, other than getting horrible mileage (gets about 16.5 mpg). I think I'll put a miltimeter on the positive lead to the sensor and see what kind of voltage signal it's sending the pcm. Again, maybe the alternator is just messing with the signal at startup (code doesn't reset after that, so it seems to be only a startup issue). If that's all it is then I can probably get away with ignoring it. Anybody know how many volts the cam pos sensor should put out when working properly?

Thanks again for your help!
 
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RonD

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Run a can of Seafoam in the gas tank or similar injector cleaner, I do this once a year on any fuel injected engine.
Dirty injector tips(pintles) will "drip" fuel at idle, so poor mix with air and Lean burn, at higher RPMs they start "spraying" fuel again.


You may just want to change the Cam sensor if it is $35, testing cam sensor is like testing an ignition coil, or coil pack, a bad one will test bad but a "good test" doesn't mean it is a good sensor, or coil, when operating at all engine RPMs

Read here on Cam sensor change: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119371

P0340 can be wiring or even computer issue, at least you don't have to time yours like a V6 engine CPS


Testing for a vacuum leak is not easy
You could start cold engine and unplug IAC Valve, but engine should always stall if you do, even with small vacuum leak.
Computer opens IAC valve more with cold engine to set higher idle, 1,100rpm
Computer then slowly closes IAC valve as engine warms up to set warm idle at about 750rpm for 2.3l, maybe 800 if automatic

But if engine a mostly warm unplugging IAC should get a drop in RPM
If not leave IAC Valve unplugged
Remove 1 vacuum hose at a time from intake manifold and plug opening with your finger, when idle drops you found the system with the leak.

Start with PCV valve hose and then Power brake hose, remember it might not be the hose that is leaking, could be the device at the end of that hose.

PCV Valve should be fully closed at idle, vacuum sucks it closed, so leaking/sticking PCV valve is a vacuum leak

Vacuum leak shouldn't change MPG
Exhaust manifold leak can
O2 sensor reads Oxygen in Exhaust manifold, if there is a gasket leak air is Sucked In, O2 sees too much air, lean burn so computer adds more fuel than is needed, so MPG drops

O2 sensors also fail "rich", fail safe, so an older upstream O2 will cause lower MPG
Upstream O2s are usually good for 100k miles but if there was ever engine problems where coolant or oil was burned then they should be replaced after the repair
And for the $40 for a new O2 it will pay for itself in better MPG over the next 100k miles
Downstream O2's last 2 or 3 times longer than upstream, it "sees" cleaner exhaust


And just a heads up about "codes" you need to also look at the codes the computer did NOT use in its report of a problem
Cam sensor codes here:
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent

Computer chose 340, not out of range, not low or high or intermittent

340 means no connection, that could be at the sensor, or in the sensor, could be on the wires or inside computer


EDIT:
On the throttle linkage there is sometimes an "anti-diesel screw", it looks like an "idle screw", but we all know you can NOT use an idle screw with fuel injection or you will burn valves with Lean mix :)
But a previous owner may have adjusted this screw in ignorance of its purpose, lol.
So with IAC Valve unplugged and engine idling unscrew this anti-diesel screw a 1/2 turn, if idle doesn't change then turn it back to where it was.
If idle starts to drop, then keep turning the screw until RPMs are close to 500, engine almost stalling, you do not have a vacuum leak
 
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tomw

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Might want to check the bellows on the air tube after the MAF leading to the throttle body. The ribs can have openings that appear when the engine moves on its mounts, opening and closing as an accordian. Sort of. The leaks will not appear when it is sitting still. Not very common, but easy to overlook when it occurs.
tom
 

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Great info from everybody, that's what I love this forum for!

So here's some updates from the info and suggestions:

Regarding the suspected vacuum leak- I found that screw that looks like an idle screw, and sure enough somebody had messed with it. I bought this truck from a guy who had run it out of coolant (he never knew the heater core was leaking, I discovered that). He just kept adding water, but eventually it got ahead of him and the gasket blew and head cracked. My guess is when it started getting coolant into the cumbustion chamber it wouldn't idle right, so he used that screw to compensate. Anyway, I disconnected the IAC, then backed off the screw till it hit 500 rpm, then reconnected. Computer jumped it back up to about 780 (perfect). However, the LTFT is still up around +17-20 at idle, which is better, but still much too high, right?

So, the cracked head story leads to the other info provided above (thanks!) regarding the o2 sensor. Although it seems to be working, it's reporting a constantly lean graph/curve, which may be why the LTFT is so high at idle. So all that coolant in the combustion chamber over that course of time could have fouled that upstream o2 sensor, so it may be false-reporting a lean condition that isn't there, does that sound right/possible? As to exhaust leak there don't seem to be any, but I can double check (I put a new catalytic converter in recently, and I'm the one who overhauled the motor and put the manifold back on, so I know it was done right). O2 sensors are cheap enough I already ordered one, and will install later this week when I get it. We'll see what that does.

I'm also going to go ahead and replace the pcv. theyre cheap, so why not. when I removed it the valve was moving freely, and while it was old, it seemed to be functioning properly. However it was definitely not sealing shut when in the idle position. I didn't know it was supposed to. It would restrict a bit, but maybe only about half the air vulume. If it's supposed to be sealing at idle then it's clearly blown.

As to the cam position sensor, thanks also for that info. It is the 340 code, so the info provided saves me some needless work. I actually did replace the sensor with a brand new one a couple months ago, but I bought the cheapest one from RockAuto (maybe it's faulty?). When that didn't work I soldered in a known good wire (from a junkyard) becuase I assumed there may be a break in the original wire somewhere within the wiring harness, which I didn't want to bother finding. The new wire has a brand new connector also, and I soldered it in 3 inches from the PCM. Both the new sensor and the new wire produced no change in the code. So then I bought a PCM off an identical truck at the junkyard, which also produced the same code. So, I'm thinking the "next steps" to try might be:

1- On the theory that perhaps the ground is bad, intermittent, or getting some sort of "echo" signals from the alternator or elsewhere, I could disconnect the negative lead (not the + lead, which goes into the PCM, but the other wire, tan and red I think, that splices in to a common ground with 2 other wires about 5 inches from teh PCM), and I'll create a tested good ground for it.

2- On the theory that maybe my new sensor isn't working (seems unlikely, but who knows) I have an OEM ford sensor I got from a junkyard truck that tests good on the multimeter (I know, that doesn't' mean it's actually working right). I can install that to see what changes.

Any opinions on my plans, or other thoughts or suggestions regarding either/both issues?
 

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Good fix on the anti-diesel screw :)
That should improve MPG as well, idling is a gas sucker, high idle really sucks gas

O2 sensors operate using a chemical reaction, like a car battery does, so they do wear out, just like a battery does.
Adding other chemicals to the exhaust(coolant) or a coating of oil doesn't help, lol.
So yes, I would just replace it and see what MPG does, it will take a week or two for LTFT to come down when any changes are made.

Also next time it comes up, spark plug tips can tell you if engine is running Richer than it should, darker color tips

PCV valve doesn't close tight at idle, I mis-spoke on that, but it does close as much as it can, point of the PCV system is to suck Blow-By gases out of crank case to be re-burned in the cylinders they came from, so some negative pressure should always be present in the crank case while engine is running.
But at idle there is less blow-by so less vacuum is needed, at higher RPMs, intake vacuum is reduce, so the weight of the PCV's internal valve pulls valve open more allowing more vacuum to suck out more blow-by, it is a balancing act.
PCV system also helps prevent oil leaks and oil burning
The negative pressure in the crank case and valve cover prevents oil from seeping out of gaskets and being sucked down intake valve stem seals.

1997 Ranger 2.3l Cam sensor will have 2 wires
Grey/red stripe is the Reference wire and connects to several other sensors
There will be same Grey/red stripe wire on:
ECT sensor
TPS
DPFE sensor
IAT(intake air temp) sensor

These are all spliced together at some point and come from pin 91 on PCM
So you can check continuity on any of these sensors grey/red wire to the grey red wire on the Cam sensor

The dark blue/orange stripe wire is the signal wire, it runs to pin 85 on PCM
It should have a shield wire, a ground mesh attached to prevent interference.
Test continuity on this wire, and make sure there is no continuity to Ground, if shield round this wire touches the wire itself then no signal
 
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BarnesAM

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To Tom- I checked the bellows (good suggestion), and the intake hose seems to be intact and well sealed. To RonD- THANKS A TON for that anti-diesel screw suggestions. That was a winner!

Next on my list are the following:

1- I'll change the upstream O2 sensor (just to rule that out). I'm sure it's very old, and likely is original to the truck, and has been contaminated like I mentioned, so it's about time anyway.

2- I ordered new coil packs (I've gotten an intermittent fault code for both, which tells me 1 or both may be weak, which could also cause poor MPG).

3- I'm going to put in a new PCV anyway. It was old, and they're cheap, so why not.

4- I can't find where to check CPS output on Forscan on my iphone, so I'm going to hook it up to my laptop and see if that gives me further functionality. I have a suspicion that the CPS is actually functioning properly after startup, and this is just a phantom code generated by some AC flutter from the Alternator or a weak starter or something.

5- If CPS looks to be no good on Forscan (or if it doesn't have that monitor function) then I'll check my timing marks again. Maybe when I put the timing belt on I installed it 1 tooth off at the oil pump (Doubtful, as I'm pretty careful, but worth looking anyway).

6- If timing looks okay I think I'll next to checking the alternator for AC current, as that's easier than changing the CPS again.

7- If alternator checks out I'll change out the CPS again.

The reason I left the CPS wiring off the list is that I tested wire continuity on the newly installed CPS wire before I soldered it in. I traced each original wire, and soldered the blue/orange one about 3 inches from the PCM harness (pin 85), and the grey/red one where the bundle of 3 comes together before going to pin 91. All soldering was covered with shrink-wrap, then 3M electrical tape (the good stuff). My degree of confidence in the new wire is pretty high.

I'll report what I find so that anybody in the future having some similar type issues might have a trail to follow as to how to fix it (I haven't found much about this issue out there).
 

tomw

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If the cam sensor wire is shielded, then it must be susceptible to noise from other things, such as alternator... and ???
If you have access to a VOM, you can check for induced current by setting the VOM on lowest setting for DC and then again for AC with the engine running at idle. If there are spurious signals being generated, it can cause codes to be generated.
From what I understand, the cam sensor is mostly used for SEFI operation. The fuel injectors are to squirt just before/as the intake valve is opening, so the computer must know which valve is being opened. Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection is the mode, vs the 'banked' squirts previous, where 2 cylinders injectors were popped at the same time, or 3 in a 6 cylinder.
A bad O2 will give 0 or low voltage. That is the signal for LEAN condition, so the computer may be compensating, and adding fuel that is not needed.
Some will try to clean a sensor, you can watch them on youtube, and I have seen one that was successful, at least the numbers indicated ... Rock has the older 2.3 sensors for about a tenner, as they are 'closeout'. Also on closeout are those for older Vulcans, and I bought one of the former, and two of the latter for less than $35, delivered. The Ranger was difficult to remove, and I searched locally for a 7/8=22mm sensor socket. Found one at Harbor Freight for ~$7 that did the job on the Ranger. Had to use an impact & extension, but it broke loose. These are name brand sensors, FWIW. Ragnar hasn't run this well since quite a while ago. Will start and keep running without stalling when cold, and that hasn't been the case for years.
tom
 

RonD

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I had opposite on passenger side O2 on 1994 4.0l
O2 was loose and unscrewed a bit
This sucked in air so was getting False Lean, and MPG was down

Decided to replace O2s, they were over due in any case, that's when I found the unscrewed O2, lol
 

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So far from my list I've accomplished the following:

1- I changed out the upstream O2 sensor
2- I put in new coil packs.
3- I checked the timing marks (which were perfect. Spot-on).
4- I changed the PCV. I checked it while running (put my finger over the hole in the valve), and while at idle it does still suck quite a bit of air, but the valve is brand new so I assume it's working right.

I also noticed that after changing the o2 sensor it hunted around a bit to find the right idle speed, which I assume was the ECU learning the new parameters to adapt to the new sensor. After about 10 seconds or so it normalized. Something new is that it now tends to idle high (1500 RPM or so) for about 5 seconds when I've been cruising at speed and come up to a stop-light. Not really a big deal, but I thought that was interesting. It does return to normal after those few seconds. Other than that it's running smooth and normal.

ECU still sets the cam position sensor malfunction code at startup (no change there). I filled up the fuel tank and will drive it a few days and gas up again so I can run the mileage and see if the above changes made any difference on fuel consumption.


Next weekend I'll sort through some of the P0304 investigation, as noted before.

Again, any thoughts comments or suggestions please throw them out there, I'm willing to do whatever to get the issue solved.
 
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