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2003 3.0 what size belt idler is stock


sickwilly

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I ask because mine is 3 1/2", seems ive read that they normally came with 3". I realize i can make either work, but ordering belt online could become a hassle if you dont get the right one. I took the belt off a few days ago and i got it back on but, after 15 years im sure its stretched a little and it was still tight. Got it halfway on the ac pulley and idler and had to bump crank it to get it rest of the way. The tensioner didnt have a lot of slack either (when rotating to take the belt off). Ive always wondered if the factory put on a 3 1/2" idler with a belt for a 3" . Its not a big deal, the belt looks good actualy. I considered replacing the belt just because of age, thats what got me goin down this road. Now im just curious. And yes im positive its original, i bought it new 15 years ago, and through the years, ive learned some parts on this truck are uh "revised".
 


sickwilly

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original belt thats on it is motorcraft 2L5E 8620. You can find damn near anything on google but a cross ref for that belt.
 

lvwill

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I'm pretty sure either size is right depending on where you measure it from. The pulley has a lip on it that doesn't matter.
 

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I'm pretty sure either size is right depending on where you measure it from. The pulley has a lip on it that doesn't matter.
No. There really are two different sizes of pulleys available. When I replaced mine a while back, I got the wrong one from Advance Auto and had to go back and exchange it. I'm not sure if the tensioner has enough travel to compensate. I compared the pulleys when I got home and went back for the exchange without trying to install the wrong one.

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sickwilly

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I'm pretty sure either size is right depending on where you measure it from. The pulley has a lip on it that doesn't matter.
Mine is steel, it has no lip. It's not a big deal, i just see no need in putting undo side loads on all the pulleys from the belt being too tight. I just thought 3" idlers were on 3.0 and 3-1/2" were on 4.0. Thanks for the replies, just curious mostly.
 

cbxer55

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The pulley on my tensioner has no lips either. Whether the pulley has lips or not depends on what part of the belt rides the pulley. If the ribbed side rides the pulley, it'll likely have lips. If the flat back side rides the pulley, it won't.
 

McCormack

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Use 3" pulleys on both the idler and tensioner or else the belt will be too tight and will pull the tensioner out of alignment,* potentially causing the belt to squeal (mine did), and the tight belt will be hard on the alternator, water pump, tensioner, and idler pulley bearings.
*The tensioner pivot point isn't very strong and the arm deflects when even moderate pressure is put on it.
 

sickwilly

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Use 3" pulleys on both the idler and tensioner or else the belt will be too tight and will pull the tensioner out of alignment,* potentially causing the belt to squeal (mine did), and the tight belt will be hard on the alternator, water pump, tensioner, and idler pulley bearings.
*The tensioner pivot point isn't very strong and the arm deflects when even moderate pressure is put on it.
Exactly what i was thinking. I took the belt off to check all the pulley bearings and it was tight getting it back on, even with 15 year old belt. I may try a 3" idler and see if it stops squealing. Guess I'll buy a belt if it doesn't.
 

McCormack

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Exactly what i was thinking. I took the belt off to check all the pulley bearings and it was tight getting it back on, even with 15 year old belt. I may try a 3" idler and see if it stops squealing. Guess I'll buy a belt if it doesn't.
Once you get your belt situation straightened away, put a straight edge on your idler pulley and compare it to your crank pulley to see if your idler pulley is running true. Most likely it isn't... the pivot points on 3.0 idler arms are weak which allows the pulleys to run crooked which causes squeaking.

Some people replace their idler assemblies with new ones but in my opinion that's just a temporary fix because the new idler will soon be pulled crooked due to the weak pivot point. What I did was to shim my idler straight by placing a thin sheet metal shim on the idler arm locating pin, and 130,000 miles later it's still running true.
 

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