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fuel pump troubleshoot


FritzTKatt

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KOEO, (not quite full battery) power to relay (clicks with key cycles, and has hot pins, assume relay works?), power to inertia switch, inertia switch has negligible resistance, power to the pink/black wire at this connection. Likely Friday I will get time to try and chase it further, but as far as I can tell there is no other connection past that besides the one at the fuel pump. Which, as far as I can tell is inaccessible without dropping the tank... any ideas? So far I know I have power that far, and the fuel pump doesn't run. Is there any easy way to jump connections so I can test the fuel pump disregarding any other systems? EDIT: I assume ya'll can figure out that the vicegrips are touching said connection? If you didn't... well now you know.
 

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FritzTKatt

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Found a wiring diagram (looks like a Haynes, mine got destroyed so I picked up a Chiltons). Says there are 2 connections between the inertia switch and the pump, first is C141 and C101. I'm guessing the connection I'm pointing out here is C141 (Adsm... sure you know).
 

RonD

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If you have 12volt power at the Pink/Black wire on inertia switch and no fuel pump sound then you should drop the tank or pull off the bed(this is often easier).

You can trace the pink/black wire back thru the frame rail and, as close to the tank as practical, use a sewing pin to pierce that wire and then check for voltage, also pierce the Black fuel pump Ground wire, and test with pink/black for voltage, this would mean pump has power and ground.

EDIT:
To make it easier you can send power to fuel pump using the VIP connector and jumper wire.
VIP connector will either be on the drivers side by firewall or passenger side by firewall, in engine bay.

Here is what it looks like and fuel pump(FP) jumper connection is labelled: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

This is a GROUND jump NOT 12volts!!
So you put a jumper wire in the FP slot on the VIP connector, then Ground the other end of the jumper wire, this will close the FP relay(if key is on) and power will be sent to inertia switch and fuel pump while key is on.
 
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jhammel85

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Check to make sure the voltage going into the relay is the same voltage going out! Sounds easy enough but it'll at least validate the relay.
 

FritzTKatt

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I'm not sure it's really feasible to test the relay in place, but can I get the relay to pop with like a 9v then send battery voltage through it and check that it's coming back out? How many volts is the minimum that the pump itself can operate on? I can check my battery volts then compare how much is lost. I was getting about the same voltage all through the system before.

I'm also thinking I have a problem with my ignition switch because the starter won't crank by the key, but I can jumper it and it cranks strong. Need to check the clutch switch to make sure that's not failing. That could cause both problems. Related to the clutch switch: I have a wire at the bottom dr/s of the bell housing, right near the starter, I'm not sure what that is, can't find it in the book. Afaik the clutch switch is only on the pedal to make sure it's pressed in, not that the clutch is physically disengaged.

I finished work late last night so all I could do was read up on it. Hopefully I can fix this without touching the fuel pump or pulling stuff off the steering column. Although I think I'd rather do the steering column...
 

FritzTKatt

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Checked my clutch switch and the pushrod is broke. Gotta swap out the master cylinder now. Any tips on the QD fitting? I put a post in the general discussions about it because it's really killing me.
 

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