As long as your expectations are realistic, there are things that can be done to get more performance from the 3.0. What are your goals for these mods, what do you do with the truck and what is your budget?
Here's what I would suggest.
1.Stay away from fancy spark plugs and "performance" plug wires or coils. Rangers have really good ignition systems from the factory, and nothing you're suggesting would require an upgrade.
2. Do the Throttle Cable Mod. It can be the biggest bang for your buck mod on a Ranger with higher miles since it costs just a few pennies. Search around for specifics on what it does.
3. Stay up on maintenance.
4. If you still want more, an underdrive crank pulley, and e-fan conversion can be done in an afternoon for a couple hundred bucks and gave me a noticeable improvement in acceleration as well as fuel economy. It doesn't turn it into a fire breathing monster, but there's a definite improvement.
5. Check your gear ratios. Having the right gear ratios for what you do is critical. It can be pricey to swap, especially if you have a 4WD truck, but it can improve acceleration and/or fuel economy.
6. Higher lift Roller rockers are a nice bolt-on that have shown some fairly significant gains on the 3.0. Most sets bolt on in pretty short order, but be sure to check fitment because a lot of guys try to use rockers designed for other engines and they can cause serious problems.
Start with the free stuff, then make sure the truck is healthy, and go from there. There's a lot of info to search through on this type of stuff in the 3.0 section.
This ^ is wonderful advice.
If #6 strikes your fancy, I would suggest a look at
http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=36 Port and polish will get more air in for more fuel to mix with for more power; just make sure the exhaust gasses can make their way out as easily. And yeah, the stock air box with a reusable filter is fine.
If you do the throttle cable mod (check on that; you'll be surprised. I was), do the IAC recalibration.
I also noticed a big difference when I went to 31s to match my 4.10 rear end (4x2 MT). check your axle code...and see if they'll fit in your wheel wells.
my 2001 b3000 has the aluminum intake manifold that gets connected to the heater lines. bypassing that has worked nicely for me. I've also increased my spark plug gap, cleaned my throttlebody and IAC valve, checked my idle, swapped out my o2 sensors. I've considered defeating my EGR system as well, but the Jury is out on that and certain people will tell you not to do it (I kinda think it's a massive built-in and factory programmed vacuum leak, but I'm no automotive engineer; It may need to be there for something more than emissions). Looking seriously at the e-fan, underdrive crank pulley and 180 degree thermostat...and a few other things as well that don't go over well on this forum. Inbox me for those. Oh yeah, synthetic oil...always! And a proper Seafoaming of your engine and fuel system never hurts once a year...I've found it works better when I use one of the vacuum ports close to the throttlebody rather than the common brake booster line, but as with all of this YMMV.
Also keep in mind that deviating from the factory design will keep you tinkering in the engine bay constantly. If that's your bag, and you're up for REALLY getting to know YOUR truck, I say go for it!