EGR code 332 won't go away

dangerranger4.0-94 · Feb 26, 2014

I'm having a problem with my 94 ranger 4.0 I'm getting code 332 and I've placed everything and tested all the sensors for the right voltages. EGR vacuum regulated(as long as the key is one) always has 14 volts. It doesn't change as the engine is running. The vacuum regulator works when I take the wire for the computer off and ground that side of the sensor. It then activates and the truck stumbles when the EGR valve opens. But when the wire for the computer is reconnected the EGR does nothing. I've tested everything and the only part I haven't replaced is the computer , which I really don't want to.

Parts replaced: EGR Vacuum Regulator
EGR to manifold tube
EGR valve
EGR vacuum hoses
DPFE sensor
DPFE sensor tubes
Sensors tested: EGR vacuum regulator 14.70 volts
DPFE- PCM wire 14.6 volts(tested against a main
power supply)
Sensor wire 1.07 volts(0.9 volts required)
5 volts on 3rd wire(as it should)

RonD · Feb 26, 2014

I would test your voltage regulator(or your voltage meter).
14.7v should only be seen just after starting engine(battery is being recharged), it should drop to 13.7v after a minute or two.

But that wouldn't be the problem unless computer got a bad circuit because of the high voltage lasting too long.

Disconnect negative battery cable for 5 minutes, then reconnect, that will reset computer.
Emission codes don't always clear themselves.
So you may, in fact, have fixed the problem, computer just needs to be reset.

The EGR valve only opens when engine is under load, so CEL should not come back on until EGR is needed.

dangerranger4.0-94 · Feb 26, 2014

Thanks for the reply. I have disconnected the battery numerous times for about 10-15 minutes at a time plus I even let it set over night once. But the code still came back. I'm aiming towards the computer being bad. I'm also getting horrible gas mileage(8mpg).When I first got the truck I was getting around 17mpg but since I started replacing parts that was throwing other codes and everything I changed was from the factory. This code is the only one that won't go away. Question! This one code wouldn't allow the EGR system work properly so in turn wouldn't it cause my poor gas mileage?

RonD · Feb 27, 2014

Right, poor mileage wouldn't be an EGR issue.

The MAF sensor data sets the main fuel/air mix, it can be cleaned and tested:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.shtml

O2 sensor is just a fine tuning sensor, but can lower MPG since they tend to fail lean, so computer runs engine richer than it should.

A fuel leak also lowers MPG, this can be in filler or vent tube, pump to rail leak, fuel pressure regulator(FPR) diaphragm can leak and fuel is sucked into the intake manifold so you don't notice the leak.
Pull vacuum line off FPR and smell it for gas smell, replace FPR if you smell gas.

Return line from FPR to gas tank can leak.

I have gone to covered parking lots at malls, found a clean dry spot and parked truck, went for lunch and then when I come back I put a couple of pens in front of each front tire and back out of the spot.
Check for spots and then what fluid it is, pens give you a reference point of where the leak is.

Injector can leak fuel into intake after engine is shut off, this can be tested with fuel pressure gauge, and it will often show up as a puff of grey smoke when restarting warm engine.

And of course the old standard MPG killer, neighborhood teen with gas can and siphon hose, lol.

How long does it take for the code to come back?
That may tell you if it is a computer issue or if a sensor or control is the problem.

dangerranger4.0-94 · Mar 8, 2014

I've replaced the EGR valve, EGR valve regulator sensor, maf sensor, fuel pressure regulator, all vacuum lines, coolant sensor for the computer and also the one for the gauge, coil pack, crank sensor, cam synchronizer sensor, air temperature sensor, throttle sensor idle air control sensor. I haven't replaced the fuel injectors. I have lifted the truck but I don't think it would kill my gas mileage that bad. But my gas mileage was getting worse before the lift.

dangerranger4.0-94 · Mar 8, 2014

The code comes back on shortly after I start driving. Maybe quarter mile before it comes on. That 332 code is the only one that I can't clear. I also replaced the EGR valve sensor that tells the computer the EGR postition. This is the sensor that's causing the 332 code.

RonD · Mar 9, 2014

There is no way you could have reversed the DPFE hoses?

Just to be clear on the DPFE electrical testing, with connector still connected to DPFE:
Bottom wire should have 5vDC with key on
Center wire is a ground from the computer
Top wire is the voltage return

If you have your meter hooked to top wire with key on engine off you should see 1vDC, 1.07 is OK
Unhook both DPFE hoses
Now put a vacuum hose on one of the hose connections and then suck on it, voltage should change as suction increases, "ref" hose connection won't show much of a change, suction on the other hose connection should cause voltage to go up to almost 5vDC.

dangerranger4.0-94 · Mar 10, 2014

I'm not dumb enough to reverse the hoses on the dpfe sensor. I've done that test also. I reads 1.08v.

RonD · Mar 10, 2014

dangerranger4.0-94 said:
I'm not dumb enough to reverse the hoses on the dpfe sensor. I've done that test also. I reads 1.08v.

If you applied vacuum(sucked on hose) to DPFE sensor and voltage stayed at 1.08 then DPFE sensor is the problem.

New doesn't mean "it works" any more, new now means "never tested"

dangerranger4.0-94 · Mar 15, 2014

Yeah I did the vacuum test. The voltage didn't stay at 1.08 volts when I applied vacuum but without vacuum it stayed at 1.08 volts. I found a website that tells you how to test the EGR system to see which parts may or may not be bad. The old dpfe sensor and the new sensor read the same numbers.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_egr_test/ford_egr_valve_1.php

This is the website I used. I followed all the instructions as it instructs to. Everything is working the way it's suppose to. All my tests have been within the testing range allowed.
The only part I haven't replaced is the computer.

RonD · Mar 15, 2014

Then I guess it is the computer.

A constant 14.6volts can effect electronics, I would address that first, system wide voltage should be 13.6v a few minutes after startup.

Just as a thought, the DPFE sensor works by sensing the pressure difference in the exhaust manifold and at the EGR valve, as EGR valve opens pressure near the EGR valve goes down so the computer "knows" the EGR valve is opening and with the amount of pressure difference it "knows" how much the EGR valve is opening.
You replaced the rubber lines for the DPFE but are the holes the lines connect to on the exhaust manifold and EGR valve clear(open), carbon build up inside could block the openings so no pressure difference and you get CEL and code.

dangerranger4.0-94 · Mar 15, 2014

I started looking into my fuel system. Maybe something is wrong there also. I put gas in the truck like always and like it's been for almost a year now. I got 135 mile on 17.8 gallons of gas (works out to be 7.5mpg). I could get a big block with better mileage then this.

RonD · Mar 15, 2014

My '94 excab 4.0l 4x4 does 14/15MPG around town, with a full load of tools and a canopy.

kimcrwbr1 · Mar 16, 2014

dangerranger4.0-94 said:
I started looking into my fuel system. Maybe something is wrong there also. I put gas in the truck like always and like it's been for almost a year now. I got 135 mile on 17.8 gallons of gas (works out to be 7.5mpg). I could get a big block with better mileage then this.

Is this with stock tires? If it has larger tires and you didnt change the carrier or speedo gear your gonna get a false reading.

EGR code 332 won't go away

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