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Which U-joint to get


bryanb

bryanb

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Im thinking of pulling the driveshaft, and putting on new Universal joints. Went to Rockauto.com, and looked around.

I can't tell which ones I need. So far, I _think_ I need:

Moog 255
Greasable Super Strength One of our most popular parts
At Rear Axle; RWD; Standard Cab Pickup; Using U-Bolts

and 280
Greasable Super Strength One of our most popular parts
At Transmission; RWD; Standard Cab Pickup; w/1-1/16" O.D. Bearings
At Transmission; RWD; Extended Cab Pickup; w/3-1/2" O.D. Yoke; w/1-1/16" O.D. Bearings
Rear Driveshaft - CV at Transmission; 4WD; 108.0' wheelbase
Rear Driveshaft at Rear Axle; 4WD; 108.0' wheelbase
Front Driveshaft at Transfer Case; 4WD; w/3-1/2" O.D. Yoke
Front Driveshaft at Front Axle; 4WD; w/3-1/2" O.D. Yoke


I have a '89 ranger, with the 2.3L, and automatice 4-speed, the A4LD. Regular cab, long bed.
 


XLTsplash

XLTsplash

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It's looks like you found the correct u-joints. Are you saving a lot of money by using RockAuto ? If you buy them at your local auto parts store it would probably be easier for you to exchange if you do get the wrong part at your local auto parts store.
 

tomw

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Moog 255
Greasable Super Strength One of our most popular parts
At Rear Axle; RWD; Standard Cab Pickup; Using U-Bolts

and 280
Greasable Super Strength One of our most popular parts
At Transmission; RWD; Standard Cab Pickup; w/1-1/16" O.D. Bearings

...
Seems as these fit your model description. You can check the OD of the bearing cap in the yoke using a tape measure. The reasons to replace u-joints are 1)they allow the driveshaft to wobble and 2) they squeak, prior to #1 happening. I have pulled powdered needles & rust out of some in the past.
They are(were) not real expensive, so I'd also suggest checking local parts stores as shipping for a couple u-joints will be a large part of their cost.
From memory, you'll need a large, no LARGE hammer, some large(1-1/16+) diameter sockets, and a big C-clamp unless you have access to a press. If you get greaseable, make sure the zerk fitting is accessible with the joint in place. If you install it facing 'backwards' to normal, it may be hidden behind the ears of the yoke or driveshaft. And, keep the 'clocking' of the yoke to the driveshaft or you may install an imbalance(not likely, but why not keep them in their old place so you don't introduce any more variables..)
When you go to put it back together, use some emery paper or other mild abrasive to remove any rust, and be sure that the needles are not fallen over in the bottom of the cups. I tend to add more grease before assembly to add more reassurance they'll stay in place. If the cup will not go to the 'bottom' so you can install the clips, pull it apart rather than forcing as you may have a tipped over needle or two that will not compress. I also suggest using a wire brush, either hand or drill operated, to clean off surface rust while messing with these. It will keep the cups from any corruption and keep your hands/gloves from carrying rust particles around.
tom
 
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