2004 2.3 Ranger starting issues

MPetrosino · Jan 21, 2015

Hello everyone,
Im new to the forums so its nice to meet all of you! Hopefully someone can shed some light on my problem ive been having for months. I have the 2.3l engine with 60k miles on it, when I try to start the truck it will crank, turn over, get up to about 500 rpm and die. If i give it gas while turning over then it will start sometimes, rev up to 1500-2000 rpm and come down to around 800-900 rpm and be totally fine. Like I said before, this works 50% of the time.

When the truck is running, its perfect. Im not getting any problems idling or accelerating, changing gears.. nothin. Its only the initial starting process. I recently did some maintenance on the truck that had no affect on the starting process. Heres a list of things ive replaced or checked.

Replaced:
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark Plugs and Wireset
Battery
Battery terminals
Fuel relay
Put injector cleaner in the tank
Cleaned the Maf sensor, IAC, TPS, throttle body

Checked the fuel pressure and primed its around 25psi, with the truck running its around 60 psi. If i prime the pump more than once itll go up to 50-60 psi and slowly creep back down to around 25psi. Is this normal?

Ive read that it could be my IAC is going out, but at this point im stumped. im not getting any codes or pending codes to help me diagnose. Another thing i should point out is im in the northwest and right now the temperatures range from 25-50F. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

MPetrosino · Jan 21, 2015

I also read the fuel pressure regulator could be the culprit.

RonD · Jan 22, 2015

2004 Ranger should have 65psi fuel pressure, 60 is OK, 50psi while running is not.
It shouldn't drop to 25psi, maybe 50psi when off.

2004 has "Returnless" fuel system so no Fuel Pressure regulator, 1997 and earlier had that.

Fuel Pumps have a Check Valve(backflow preventer) these can fail and pressure will be lost when engine(pump) is off, this is part of the fuel pump in the tank.

Leaking fuel injector can also cause a loss of pressure, but you would probably be getting Rich Codes with CEL(check engine light).

Leaking fuel line as well but you would smell the gas.

So most likely issue is the check valve.
When you turn the key on fuel pump will come on for 2 seconds, and only 2 seconds, fuel pump will not come on again until RPMs are above 500.
So do this, turn on key, count to 3, turn off key, repeat this 3 or 4 times, then try to start engine.

Do not pump gas pedal, doesn't do anything and can delay starting in this case.

If you want to check for leaking injector, do the above "key on-key off" 3 times.
But don't crank engine, first press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down all the way, this will turn OFF the fuel injectors.
Now crank engine, you want a no start in this case, if it fires at all then you do have a leaking injector.

You mentioned something else which isn't related to fuel pressure issue.
Cold engine idle should be 1,100-1,200rpms, sometimes even a little higher with the 4 cylinders.
That high idle should slowly drop as engine warms up, there should not be a sudden drop to 800rpms, warm idle.
Normal warm up time is 5 to 8 minutes

MPetrosino · Jan 22, 2015

Here is a video of what's happening http://youtu.be/uDh1wQawNaI

RonD · Jan 22, 2015

Sure looks like low fuel pressure.

Try cycling the key on then off as posted above, 3 or 4 times, if it starts then low presure is the issue.

Thought I heard gas pedal being pumped as well?
You have a fuel injected engine, in the old days with carbs when you pumped the gas pedal the carb's accelerator pump would squirt extra gas into the intake each time gas pedal was pressed down, nothing like that on a fuel injected engine.
Computer doesn't even "look at" TPS(throttle position) until engine is started.
Since your issue looks like not enough gas is making it to the intake(low pressure) opening the throttle(gas pedal down) lets in more air, since engine will not start unless air:fuel mix is near 14:1 ratio, you letting in more air(throttle open) dilutes what little fuel there is, to 20:1 or more, so don't do it.
Pumping the gas pedal on a fuel injected engine does the exact opposite of what it did on a carb engine, it adds more air not more fuel.

MPetrosino · Jan 22, 2015

I tried spraying starter fluid in the air intake and still wouldn't run, if it was a fuel problem would the starting fluid start the truck?

MPetrosino · Jan 22, 2015

I have a feeling the problem is a leaky fuel injector. I remember seeing fluid come out of the exhaust and when the truck wouldn't start, but start 30 minutes later that is a symptom of flooding. Honestly I forgot about that until just now, sorry about that.

RonD · Jan 22, 2015

What happens with the Key on-Key off, and repeat test?

You would have drivability issue with leaking injector and/or CEL(check engine light) because of O2 sensor detecting rich fuel mix after warm up.
And since each injector is at the intake valve of just one cylinder, you would usually get a start up but a solid miss on that one flooded cylinder until extra fuel was pushed out or burned up.

Water(fluid) out the tail pipe is normal, when you burn gas(Hydrocarbon) with Oxygen, one of the by products is H2O(water).
This is why exhaust systems rust from the inside out.
After cool down the water vapor condenses in the exhaust system forming pools of water, causing the rusting, and when cranking and starting the air flow will push some of that water out the tail pipe, once exhaust gets hot enough again it will turn back to vapor.

adsm08 · Jan 22, 2015

If you can get the fuel rail and injectors out and zip tie them tight, then prime the system you would be able to see a leaking injector.

The only other alternative would be the check valve on the pump in the tank.

RonD · Jan 22, 2015

MPetrosino said:
I tried spraying starter fluid in the air intake and still wouldn't run, if it was a fuel problem would the starting fluid start the truck?

Sorry missed this one.

Starting fluid(ether) will usually make an engine fire, well each cylinder it gets into fires, ether will ignite at 300degF, gasoline needs to be 500+ degrees.
Ether gets used up fast, most of it just sticks to the sides of the intake.
Ether is used to test for spark in a gas engine.
Or on very cold days it is used to pre-heat the cylinders, the firing/burning of the ether in the cylinders warms them up enough for incoming gasoline to get warm enough to ignite.

If cylinders fired with ether then spark is good, if it didn't start up and stay running then issue is fuel delivery, there was nothing left to burn when ether was used up.

Your original post with reported fuel pressure of 25psi, less then 1/2 of what it should be, tells you alot.
Your tires should have 30psi of air pressure.
If one had 15psi of pressure and vehicle was leaning to one side, would you look at the springs or shocks first, or would you address the pressure issue first?

MPetrosino · Jan 22, 2015

Ok so priming the fuel line 3-4 times didn't do anything, truck started right up when I gave it a little throttle though. Could it be possible that the maf sensor is bad and it's running off of saved specs?

MPetrosino · Jan 22, 2015

I'm sorry I'm trying to rush my responses because I'm at work, give me a couple hours and I'll be home with more focus

RonD · Jan 22, 2015

If Priming the system 3 or 4 times didn't help then problem is getting worse.

Get the pressure tested again.
Engine off
engine running at idle
engine running at 2,000rpms for 1 minute
Engine off wait 10 minutes

Should be
50+
65
60-65
50+

Throttle doesn't do anything at start up, except let more air in, like saying rolling down the drivers window when starting help start it, lol.
Just kidding.

I know you don't want it to be a fuel pump issue, because it is a pain to replace, but it sure looks like it is.

adsm08 · Jan 22, 2015

RonD said:
Your tires should have 30psi of air pressure.
If one had 15psi of pressure and vehicle was leaning to one side, would you look at the springs or shocks first, or would you address the pressure issue first?

The people I deal with would assume a spring broke, and then demand it be replaced under warranty even though that isn't the problem and the warranty is expired.

MPetrosino · Jan 22, 2015

adsm08 said:
The people I deal with would assume a spring broke, and then demand it be replaced under warranty even though that isn't the problem and the warranty is expired.

Haha I know im trying to make it so its not the fuel pump, i just want to make sure before i go and spend an entire day working on it. Ive never dealt with fuel pumps so i dont know what i have in store for me.

When i left work today i primed the fuel line 3 times and the truck started no problem, although on my lunch break I did the same thing and it didnt start. For me to check the fuel pressure again i would have to put a $150 deposit on a loan a tool from autozone. I am active duty and am busy for the rest of the day but tomorrow i will get the tool and let you know what the results are. As far as doing the Ether test, what i meant was the truck wouldnt even fire with the ether in the air intake. I might have been doing it wrong, I sprayed, then turned ignition.. are you suppose to spray while turning ignition?

Im new to working on vehicles beyond the normal maintenance so i want to thank you for being patient with me and sharing your knowledge through this process. I really appreciate it!

2004 2.3 Ranger starting issues

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