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1988 Bronco 2 windows don't work right


wildbill23c

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Pulled the passenger side door panel off this afternoon to lubricate the door tracks as the window rolls up and down really slow. While in the process of doing so I found an odd problem that just surfaced. Now unless the doors are open I can't roll the windows up or down, as soon as I close the driver's door its like the power is turned off. Can't find anything that would cause it, by removing the inside door panel and lubricating the track, doesn't make any sense how suddenly the windows won't roll up or down without having the driver's door open.

Any insight as to what would suddenly cause this nonsense?
 


adsm08

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Open up the sheath of the harness to the driver's door in the hinge area, look for the blue and black wire, it is damaged. Probably some others too, but that is the one that works the windows.
 

wildbill23c

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Thanks, I'll check it out tomorrow after work. I briefly looked there but didn't tear into it at all. Just found it quite odd that it happened working on the passenger side door LOL.
 

wildbill23c

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Looked into the wiring this evening, couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. Could the actual switches themselves be bad causing this to happen?
 

adsm08

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The switch could, hypothetically do what you describe, except for the door open/closed part.

You have a break in the wire, that is the only thing that will make door position effect this. You said it is the driver's door that makes the difference, so that is where to look.

Now the wire itself is less flexible than the insulation. I have seen many many times where the wire breaks INSIDE the insulation, and the only external visual cue is a very slight discoloration of the insulation at the break. It almost takes a trained eye to pick up on the color difference. Look again, feel around the wire, you may be able to feel the break.
 

wildbill23c

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I realized yesterday while messing around with it that the locks don't work with the door closed either, so there's multiple issues.

I'll mess around with it more when I have more time, but this is just strange that it was just fine when I worked on the driver's door window, and the problem only started when I worked on the passenger door window LOL.
 

mplummer08

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You could also try moving the wires with the door open to see if they duplicate the problem. Definitely not a sure fire check but some times you get lucky. If the problem duplicates then it is most definitely a wire issue.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
 

wildbill23c

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0
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215/70-R14
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19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
You could also try moving the wires with the door open to see if they duplicate the problem. Definitely not a sure fire check but some times you get lucky. If the problem duplicates then it is most definitely a wire issue.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
I've tried that already, first thing I started doing. Kind of wondering if the whole switch assembly is screwing up combined with a wire I cannot see that is broken, or shorting out. Now the fun part is figuring out where its broken at. How hard is it to take the fenders off one of these B2's?

I HATE power windows and locks and this is exactly the reason why.
 
Last edited:

wildbill23c

Well-Known Member
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Ham Radio Operator
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Messages
3,917
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572
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Location
Southwestern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Driver's side window and locks work now, got 1 more or 2 more wires to fix tomorrow. Started raining too hard to mess with anymore.

The black wire was damaged up towards the rubber grommet going inside the door, fixed that and a couple other wires. I see 2 more that the insulation is broken and looks like the wires are a bit corroded, but when you wiggle them around they make contact and the passenger window goes up or down...so I'll fix those tomorrow.

Thanks again adsm08. Your knowledge once again proves itself.
 
Last edited:

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