Money Pit!

bbbc3 · Aug 25, 2014

Well, I was excited when I bought my 85 Ranger 4x4, 4spd. But this thing has cost a small fortune to get on the road. What I thought would be a small repair to get the engine running turned into completely rebuilding the 2.8. I was fine with this vs. going with a different engine because I was sticking to the orginal engine the truck was designed for. Now after spending major money on that, I calcualte that I'm only getting 10mpg. Since I just had the motor rebuilt and new vaccum lines added I figured that is the best tune up you can do. I will say that the engine does seem to idle high when sitting still. It is a 4 speed but could it be that the truck has low gears in it? How do I tell? Should I consider putting a 5 speed in the truck? I wouldn't think that would help since I don't run it on the hwy.

Blake

drsvox · Aug 25, 2014

Before I rebuilt my 2.8 I was getting up to 17mpg (mixed highway/town) on a C5 auto, and I credit that to rebuilding the carburetor, so that's the first place I'd probably look. There's a great tech article here at TRS which walks you through it.

What does idling fast mean? Emissions sticker states fast idle cam should be set to about 2800rpm (which is quite high). Warm engine should idle around 750 in drive (auto) or 850 in neutral (man).

Also, timing was set after you dropped the rebuilt in, yes?

bbbc3 · Aug 25, 2014

I meant idles high.
I don't have a tach in my truck so I'm not sure of the rpm levels. I hope they checked the timing when setting the engine back in. I'm taking it back to the shop to have them look at the starter. While I'm there I'll have them check the timing. What should the timing be set at?

Thanks
Blake

drsvox · Aug 25, 2014

10 before TDC. The balancer should have cast marks on it in two degree steps...but for some reason 12 (and not 10) is stamped on it.

One of the wires coming off the ICM (I think its the SPOUT) has a connector which must be disconnected before timing is set, and reconnected after tightening down the distributor (and double-checking the timing again).

When they set the timing, they should attach a tach and will be able to tell you what your fast and curb idle rpms are.

enginepaul · Aug 26, 2014

Assuming you have the original ignition, you need to pull codes to see what's going on. I get about 20 to 21 mpg with mixed driving. city and highway.
(That fast idle is to keep emissions low until the engine is warmed up.)

bbbc3 · Aug 26, 2014

Thanks for your replies. I'm still trying to find my way around this site. Can someone send me the link to tuning/rebuilding the 2.8 carb?

Blake

drsvox · Aug 26, 2014

here's the tech info http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf

...assuming you're running with a 2150. rebuild kits are cheap (around $35) and should be in stock at your down-the-road AAP, AZ, etc...

but enginepaul brings up a good point about pulling codes to see what's going on. original ignition requires an EEC-IV code reader, or you can go low-tech and hook up a light to pull codes (by counting flashes)...tech article here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

The connector is located near your vacuum solenoids (engine compartment, passenger side).

Not positive, but I don't think AAP or AZ would have an EEC-IV code reader on hand to pull them for you, so you may have to ask around.

Harley · Aug 26, 2014

Another thing to remember is that you just rebuilt it...usually an engine gets better mileage as it breaks in...how many miles on it?

bbbc3 · Aug 26, 2014

Thanks guys. I actually have less than 200 miles on it after the rebuild. Since ya'll are giving great advice, I have one more question.

I just put a new starter in the truck tonight. After starting the truck it was making a loud grinding noise. I put a shim on it and that worked except I can hear a faint grinding noise. I backed the bolts out about half a turn and that fixed it. Now I'm just worried the bolts may vibrate out. If I put a lock washer on the bolts I figured they wouldn't be effective unless I tightened pretty hard on them, then I would be back to the faint grinding noise.

Your thoughts?

drsvox · Aug 26, 2014

First, if the mechanic didn't already tell you, change the oil and filter after 500 miles. use regular oil--not synthetics and not blends--of whatever weight oil you're using. Adding in a bottle of Lucas Break-In fluid won't hurt. Change the oil again after 1K or 2K, using regular oil; then again and thereafter using the 3K or 3 months rule of thumb...at this point I think it's ok to use synthetics (but some may disagree).

As for the starter: Those bolts are terrible for backing out on their own (at least in my experience and especially since threads are stripped on the bell). I just lock mine on with nuts and hope for the best

Money Pit!

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