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Front wheels not getting power


redpatcher

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So here's the skinny. I recently bought a 1999 Ranger, V6, 5 Speed. The previous owner put manual hubs on it and since buying it, I've replaced the CV axles, axle bearings, and transfer case motor. I was having trouble with it shifting through 2, 4, and 4L, but after replacing the transfer case motor, that works properly now. However, I'm still not getting power to the front. I tested it on a hill after the swap and the rear wheels were spinning and the front were doing nothing. I'm not knowledgeable about vehicles at all, so I'm not sure what's going on with it. I'm pretty much learning as I go with this truck.

What else should I be looking for on this truck?
 


jdm4721

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I had the same problem one time. To help narrow down the problem, I tuned the from drive shaft. When it is turned, the CV axles should turn. If they don't then you have something in your front differential. At one point, I had a hub that wouldn't lock. To see which one it was, I turned each CV with my hand. With the hubs locked, neither should turn, however, if one does, chances are your hub is just stuck. I just took mine off, poured some 10w 30 on it, put it back on and haven't had a problem since.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

RonD

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Yes, to above

In 2WD, unlock both the hubs and roll truck forward while some one watches front drive shaft, it should not turn
Now lock both hubs and roll forward, it should turn now, if it doesn't then problem is in a hub or differential

Unlock hubs, put in 4hi, roll forward, drive shaft should turn, if not problem is in transfer case

Note on the front axle, it is OPEN type differential not limited slip, so if one hub fails to lock there is no 4WD.
OPEN axles send ALL the power to the EASIEST wheel to turn, this is why only one wheel spins when you get stuck in an OPEN axle vehicle, lol.
So if one wheel/hub is not locked to its axle then it gets all the power in 4WD, so no 4WD
 
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redpatcher

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That sounds logical. I'll check on that when I get a chance. Hopefully it's just a stuck hub. The passenger side hub does seem a little sticky at times. I don't always get that kerthunk sound when I lock it like the driver's side does.
 

redpatcher

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Finally got around to checking my drivetrain. In 2wd with hbs locked, my front driveshaft is turning. In 4wd and hubs unlocked, front driveshaft does nothing. What should I look for in the transfer case?
 

RonD

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redpatcher

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Probably a used transfer case would be best bet, but it could be shift motor is not moving the transfer case shift rod, so not an internal issue

Pull off the shift motor and move it manually to 4hi

Pictures here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-rebuild-4x4-shift-motor.123542/
The shift motor is new. I just swapped that two weeks ago. I was hoping that was the problem as I'm 99.9% sure the transfer case and shift motor had never been replaced. The truck has 198k miles on the drivetrain and just based on how everything looks underneath, 4wd seems to have been used more than average. How hard is it to swap out the transfer case? Like I said, I'm pretty new to working on my own vehicle. I'm above average in mechanical inclination, but, if it's overly involved, I might need help.
 

RonD

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I would still shift it manually to rule that out before pulling transfer case

In 1999 the Ranger will use the Borg Warner BW1354E transfer case, used from around 1990 and up in Rangers and V6 explorers
E means electric shift

Transfer case swap or removal is easier than transmission or engine for sure.

Unplug shift motor wires, and/or remove shift motor
Remove front and rear drive lines

1999 won't have speedocable or VSS wires

Look at picture here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attachments/engine-drivetrain-116/69087d1420925648-1354m-transfer-case-shifter-transfercase1.jpg

There are 5 bolts that hold transfer case to transmission, put a jack or support under transfer case and remove those 5 bolts
Pull it back away from trans and lower it down

there may be a shim plate in between, it must go back in on reassembly



The above picture is a BW1354M(manual shift) so has a wire connector for shift position, E won't have that since shift motor has it
BW1354 use ATF not Gear oil
 
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redpatcher

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That doesn't sound too bad. I'll give the manual shift a shot. Definitely don't want to spend money I don't have to. Thanks!
 

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