2.9l Number 3 cylinder exhaust lifter issue

2.9l Number 3 cylinder exhaust lifter issue?

Need Help Guy's

I been dealing with this popping bogging 2.9l for some time now. I been hearing a loud rocker tick as it is popping I pulled number 3 plug carbon fouled as always. I just pulled the valve cover off number 3 cylinder the exhaust rocker has lots of slack I can push it up and down easy. All others are snug no slack the lifter must not be pumping up thus a loud popping sound. Is there a way to help this maybe adjust the rocker down take some of the slack out? I think the popping is the exhaust valve no opening

I just took the coil wire off turned it over 20 times to bring the oil pressure up. Number three cylinder exhaust lifter still has lots of up and down movement all others pumped up no movement. I can see lots of oil on top of the lifter as I push the rocker up and down

Here is one of my other threads of my on going saga http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171327

I would measure valve stem height to make sure valve isn't bent.
Hydraulic lifters have a strong spring inside, so even with no oil pressure push rod should be tight against rocker, collapsed lifter means spring is broken

The spring does two things, holds pressure on valve train on start up and "sucks in" oil on down movement of cam, the hydraulic part of hydraulic lifters
When cam pushes up on the bottom of the lifter the spring inside compresses as piston is pushed down by Valve spring pressure and oil inside the lifter is pushed out into the push rod.
When cam releases pressure the spring pushes lifter piston back up allowing it to refill with oil from oil passages

If you tighten the rocker arm you are in effect removing any pumping of oil on the rocker and it also becomes a solid lifter, which will still "tick" a bit, just the nature of solid lifters.

RonD said:

I would measure valve stem height to make sure valve isn't bent.
Hydraulic lifters have a strong spring inside, so even with no oil pressure push rod should be tight against rocker, collapsed lifter means spring is broken

The spring does two things, holds pressure on valve train on start up and "sucks in" oil on down movement of cam, the hydraulic part of hydraulic lifters
When cam pushes up on the bottom of the lifter the spring inside compresses as piston is pushed down by Valve spring pressure and oil inside the lifter is pushed out into the push rod.
When cam releases pressure the spring pushes lifter piston back up allowing it to refill with oil from oil passages

If you tighten the rocker arm you are in effect removing any pumping of oil on the rocker and it also becomes a solid lifter, which will still "tick" a bit, just the nature of solid lifters.

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Thanks for the quick reply Ron

The valve looks ok not bent the push rod is perfect not bent as I push the rocker arm down I see the plunger in the center of the lifter go down. With my calipers it has 1.035 gap between the valve stem tip and rocker arm if I am reading it right. would be ok to adjust it down to .035? what would be safe

There is no gap with hydraulic lifters, which was the point of using them

When you setup hydraulic lifters you tighten rocker to 0 gap then turn rocker nut 1/2 turn more to push lifter piston down a bit, so there is never a gap to cause ticking noise
Assuming 0 defection from cam during adjustment

Best method is to do it with engine running, loosen rocker until it starts to "tick" then tighten until tick stops, then 1/2 turn more, some do 1/4 turn and some 3/4, really depends on how fine the threads are on the rocker nut
You can buy rocker clips that prevent oil from spraying out and a partial valve cover to stop oil from coming out lower head area, but you can also put rags/towels down.

RonD said:

There is no gap with hydraulic lifters, which was the point of using them

When you setup hydraulic lifters you tighten rocker to 0 gap then turn rocker nut 1/2 turn more to push lifter piston down a bit, so there is never a gap to cause ticking noise
Assuming 0 defection from cam during adjustment

Best method is to do it with engine running, loosen rocker until it starts to "tick" then tighten until tick stops, then 1/2 turn more, some do 1/4 turn and some 3/4, really depends on how fine the threads are on the rocker nut
You can buy rocker clips that prevent oil from spraying out and a partial valve cover to stop oil from coming out lower head area, but you can also put rags/towels down.

Click to expand...

Ron thanks again

As it looks right now its not even opening the exhaust valve I will do it with it running. I don't mind ticking its the popping bogging ordeal just need to get it running on a 6 cylinders

"Ron we got it"

Thank you so very much your quick help is so very much appreciated. I fired it up there was no movement on number 3 exhaust. I tuned it off went down half turn still nothing I as it was running I pushed down on the rocker arm I felt it moving. I went a full turn it started moving I shut it off went down another full turn. I fired it up sounded great no popping real smooth the rocker arm was moving but not as much as number 1 exhaust. I turned it off went another full turn rocker moving better engine sounding better and more smooth. I had to go all the way to only one thread on the adjuster showing. I got California Smog Check in August not it running I just need to change the two cats I think Napa has a replacement unit

I pulled the plug its burning real nice I might put the AP 106 in it burns hotter than the AP 105. I think after all this popping that chamber needs cleaning with a hotter plug

Well you are basically running a solid lifter on that valve now which means no oil pumping up the push rod so rocker end will start to wear, I would budget for changing all the lifters.

Can't remember if you have to pull the heads on the 2.9l to get all the lifters out but I think you did need to unfortunately
You could just replace the one if it can be pulled out with just lower intake off

RonD said:

Well you are basically running a solid lifter on that valve now which means no oil pumping up the push rod so rocker end will start to wear, I would budget for changing all the lifters.

Can't remember if you have to pull the heads on the 2.9l to get all the lifters out but I think you did need to unfortunately
You could just replace the one if it can be pulled out with just lower intake off

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Ron

It runs great on flat land steep hills or steep on ramps it still pops a little but drivable. I just need it to run good I got CA smog test in August. After that will look into a good used 2.9l to stick in it. The lifter it has the head casting in front of it not enough room to remove the lifter