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- Joined
- Nov 9, 2008
- Messages
- 200
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Pitt Meadows
- Vehicle Year
- 1988
- Make / Model
- BroncoII
- Engine Size
- 2.9
- Transmission
- Automatic
Okay so the truck won't start.
Point of fact so far the Haynes manual colour coding for wiring is completly wrong! When i would look at the wires all the wrong colours compared to the book.
I now have a copy of mitchell diagrams and every colour matches bang on like it should.
Main components:From bac to front.
In-tank fuel pump(low pressure)
Dual tank crossover cannister filter.(driverside fram rail between the tank and high pressure pump.)
High pressure pump.
fuel filter(drivers frame rail up from the high pressure pump)
Fuel regulator(drivers side of the intake manifold towards the back)
Fuel pump relay(passenger side fender by the air box)
ECU(behind the passeger kick panel)
Fuel rails
and injectors
fuel pump inertia switch(under the heater box passenger side closer to the tranny pull back the carpet looks like abox with two wires.
Step one-Do you hear the buzz with your drivers door open and
the key in the on position.Some Rangers and BII's use
a low pressure pump in the tank and a high pressure
on the rail below the drivers door,both pumps
should buzz though it will sound like one.
Step two-No buzzing(that sucks)lol
First lets tackle the inertia switch,two wires going to it.
with the key on(run position)there should be twelve
volts on both wires-(there is a magnetic ball bearing
that sits in a cup if the vehicle gets jarred to hard the
ball will bounce loose and trip the switch off roading
can trigger this as well)when the switch does get
tripped it makes a click sound.I actually kept thinking
a small stone had hit my winshield.
The pink w black wire delivers power to the pump(s).
The orange w light blue is the power from the fuel
pump relay.
This switch can be reset by pushing the little button on
top of this switch my switch button would reset but
the switch itself was toast.
I bypassed my switch and that curred my problem.
But this method is not SAFE as a fix. The switch should
be replaced.
Step three-The fuel pumps(Both should have twelve volts)
The high pressurerail pump will have a pink w black
power wire and a black ground.
The low pressure in the tank will have a plug that
that consists of pink w black(pump power)
black(pump ground)yellow-white(fuel gauge power)
orange(fuel gauge ground)
These plugs like to grow gunge in them!
Step four-The fuel pump relay
The relay will have a tan w light green,
red,orange w light blue x2 and a yellow.
The tan w light green connects into the
ECUterminal #22 and the self test connector.
The red is switch control(open/close)
from the ignition switch it also operates many
other circuits.The orange w light blue sends power
to the inertia switch and the other orange w light blue
goes to terminal#8 at the ECU.The yellow is
your main switch power coming from a blue
fusible link.
Step five-The computer has three grounds one case ground
coming from terminal #20,two grounds connecting
to the battery negative.All three of these wires are
black w light green.(One bad ground can wreek
havoc on an electrical system no matter how small).
Step six-No fuel delivery
Have a buddy turn the ignition on so you can listen
for the buzz one pump at a time.If you hear a buzz
in each they should be okay.Pop the hood and go
to the fuel rail driver-side,there you will see small
spout with a black cap. Take off the cap.
What you see will look like tire stem,
(the proper name is schraeder valve) that valve
is used to hook up a pressure gauge.If you test you should see around 55psi engine running.
Turn off all power in the truck and put out your smokes
use a phillips screwdriver(star)to push this valve,
just briefly though.if hardly any gas spurts out there
could be clog.
Step seven-Change the fuel filter.
there is two different styles of connectors that
Ford uses.first is the old plastic horse-shoe looking clips.
the other is a round steel mushroomy looking thing
that requires a special tool,which is fairly inexpensive.
If that does not cure the problem the next to check
is the dual tank crossover cannister.I used big 8" pliers
unscrew it, be prepared for fuel to spill forth have
something clean handy to catch the excess fuel
that comes out.This cannister likes to collect sediment.
Do not reuse the old o-ring,i did yeah big mistake.lol
Step eight-Still no go.Go back up to your fuel rail drivers side.There is fuel pressure regulator between the filter and fuel rail with the ignition key off pull the vaccuum hoses off the regulator(one at a time)if there is gas in them,the regulator could be faulty.
remember i just like to help. These are just hints, there is always lots of data to research with.As well including some very knowledgable members so double check,dont assume.
goota go will add more soon anyfeed back for so far would be appreciated from everybody or any thing to add feel free i would like to make this as informative as possible thanks
Point of fact so far the Haynes manual colour coding for wiring is completly wrong! When i would look at the wires all the wrong colours compared to the book.
I now have a copy of mitchell diagrams and every colour matches bang on like it should.
Main components:From bac to front.
In-tank fuel pump(low pressure)
Dual tank crossover cannister filter.(driverside fram rail between the tank and high pressure pump.)
High pressure pump.
fuel filter(drivers frame rail up from the high pressure pump)
Fuel regulator(drivers side of the intake manifold towards the back)
Fuel pump relay(passenger side fender by the air box)
ECU(behind the passeger kick panel)
Fuel rails
and injectors
fuel pump inertia switch(under the heater box passenger side closer to the tranny pull back the carpet looks like abox with two wires.
Step one-Do you hear the buzz with your drivers door open and
the key in the on position.Some Rangers and BII's use
a low pressure pump in the tank and a high pressure
on the rail below the drivers door,both pumps
should buzz though it will sound like one.
Step two-No buzzing(that sucks)lol
First lets tackle the inertia switch,two wires going to it.
with the key on(run position)there should be twelve
volts on both wires-(there is a magnetic ball bearing
that sits in a cup if the vehicle gets jarred to hard the
ball will bounce loose and trip the switch off roading
can trigger this as well)when the switch does get
tripped it makes a click sound.I actually kept thinking
a small stone had hit my winshield.
The pink w black wire delivers power to the pump(s).
The orange w light blue is the power from the fuel
pump relay.
This switch can be reset by pushing the little button on
top of this switch my switch button would reset but
the switch itself was toast.
I bypassed my switch and that curred my problem.
But this method is not SAFE as a fix. The switch should
be replaced.
Step three-The fuel pumps(Both should have twelve volts)
The high pressurerail pump will have a pink w black
power wire and a black ground.
The low pressure in the tank will have a plug that
that consists of pink w black(pump power)
black(pump ground)yellow-white(fuel gauge power)
orange(fuel gauge ground)
These plugs like to grow gunge in them!
Step four-The fuel pump relay
The relay will have a tan w light green,
red,orange w light blue x2 and a yellow.
The tan w light green connects into the
ECUterminal #22 and the self test connector.
The red is switch control(open/close)
from the ignition switch it also operates many
other circuits.The orange w light blue sends power
to the inertia switch and the other orange w light blue
goes to terminal#8 at the ECU.The yellow is
your main switch power coming from a blue
fusible link.
Step five-The computer has three grounds one case ground
coming from terminal #20,two grounds connecting
to the battery negative.All three of these wires are
black w light green.(One bad ground can wreek
havoc on an electrical system no matter how small).
Step six-No fuel delivery
Have a buddy turn the ignition on so you can listen
for the buzz one pump at a time.If you hear a buzz
in each they should be okay.Pop the hood and go
to the fuel rail driver-side,there you will see small
spout with a black cap. Take off the cap.
What you see will look like tire stem,
(the proper name is schraeder valve) that valve
is used to hook up a pressure gauge.If you test you should see around 55psi engine running.
Turn off all power in the truck and put out your smokes
use a phillips screwdriver(star)to push this valve,
just briefly though.if hardly any gas spurts out there
could be clog.
Step seven-Change the fuel filter.
there is two different styles of connectors that
Ford uses.first is the old plastic horse-shoe looking clips.
the other is a round steel mushroomy looking thing
that requires a special tool,which is fairly inexpensive.
If that does not cure the problem the next to check
is the dual tank crossover cannister.I used big 8" pliers
unscrew it, be prepared for fuel to spill forth have
something clean handy to catch the excess fuel
that comes out.This cannister likes to collect sediment.
Do not reuse the old o-ring,i did yeah big mistake.lol
Step eight-Still no go.Go back up to your fuel rail drivers side.There is fuel pressure regulator between the filter and fuel rail with the ignition key off pull the vaccuum hoses off the regulator(one at a time)if there is gas in them,the regulator could be faulty.
remember i just like to help. These are just hints, there is always lots of data to research with.As well including some very knowledgable members so double check,dont assume.
goota go will add more soon anyfeed back for so far would be appreciated from everybody or any thing to add feel free i would like to make this as informative as possible thanks
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