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Green Goo on Oil fill cap


Twister

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Ok so i got an 85 B2, i just got done durasparking it, so i warmed it up so i can adjust the fuel mixture. I took the air cleaner off and the tube that goes to the oil fill cap has slight smoke coming out of it. So i turn the car off and take the cap off. Inside the cap where the hose goes on there is green goo, and what looks like water is coming out of the bottom. There was also a tiny hole in my radiator hose that was secreting brown liquid.

Does this mean i have a cracked head or are my head gaskets bad?
 


rusty70f100

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It happens every winter. There's this thing called condensation. When the weather gets cold, blowby moisture that would normally go out the PCV valve condenses on the valve covers and the bottom of the oil filler cap. It mixes with engine oil and you get this green snot goo stuff, especially on short trips.

Watch the coolant level in the reserve tank after changing your hose and fixing any other external leaks. If it drops for no apparent reason, then it might be going into the engine oil.

If you're really paranoid about it you can send in and get an oil analysis. That will tell you if you've got antifreeze in your oil.
 

Original_Ranger84

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Yeah It could just be condensation, if your oil was getting water in it then the oil in the crank would probably be a milky color.

The brown liquid coming from your hose is more then likely rusty coolent from the iron block on your ranger. A good flush should get rid of it.
 

Twister

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thanks guys, i was freaking out when i found it. My brothers friend told me i should drain my oil, then fill it with cheap oil run it for like 20min, then drain it and do a regular oil change to e on the safe side. I am also going to drain my radiator and replace the hoses.
 

ragajungle

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The breather hose on my 3.8L Ford LTD did the same thing since it was new. the smoke out of it is a bit of blow by -

On my LTD it (The blow-by) got so bad I had to disconnect it from the air cleaner as it was choking the car up and soaking the air filter and making a rich soupy mix in the air cleaner housing. I actually had to run the breather hose all the way to the back of the car.....at first I just left it unplugged in the engine compartment but it made the belts squeal and brake rotors get rusty. And I couldn't run the heat cuz it smelled so bad...

eventually I had to run a extra long tube to the back of the car so that I could exhaust the oil smoke blow by crap.... Dual exhaust one oil and one oil and gas...


had to squeegy the tail lights weekly -- wow memories! what a pile of shit that car was but it was mine. sorry to ramble but man that car was a trap
 

Twister

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:yahoo::yahoo:

Well the oil came out like normal oil, i did not see any water or milkiness.
 

Twister

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Kind of an old thread, but dealing with the condensation. Can you get too much of it. My bronco II does not see alot of miles, i mostly use it to go to school and back and the occasional trip to the gas station of choice which is about 5 miles away. It has quite a good amount of it. It is not green, but clear with a tint of brown so i dont think it is coolant.

But today i decided to check my oil, on the very time there was a little bit of white goo (not brown). It was not on any other part of the dipstick other than on the very tip. I drove to go get my brother and sister from school and checked it when i got back home and it was the same thing, only on the tip and not up the dipstick. The rest of the dipstick had clean oil on it.

So what do you guys think? Could it be that i dont drive my B2 enough to burn off the condensation or do you think there might be a further problem? :dunno:
 

The_Dealer

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change your pcv valve, and try an engine flush, i like gunk high mileage, and see if that helps. i know dodge dakotas and durangos are notorius for the good in the oil fill cap
 

rusty70f100

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I'd say pack everybody up, and take a weekend trip in the thing. At least an hour away should work good. Then check it.

Also you might benefit from a hotter thermostat.
 

Twister

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Ok, well I have a 195* t-stat which I presume is the oem temp one. When I replace the pvc valve should I just replace it with a stock one or is there any upgrade I can do?

Thanks for the help :icon_thumby:
 
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