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Opinions needed - best ranger 4x4?


jeremysdad

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I like any 4.0, D35 Ranger. These are automotive Erector Sets. You just find the parts you want and bolt them on. I don't want an 80's or early 90s auto, but I'd be fine with maybe a '93 and on auto. I have a manual now, but I could see putting a C5 in it one day--I have 2 of them. I like to drink coffee and leave the shifting to the car. C5 can be built to handle a 460 and I plan to tow my RC-30 trackloader on a 3/4-scale gooseneck behind this truck--I think the manual will handle it, but the C5 will be better. Get the body and engine you want and everything else can be assembled.

Auto hubs can work fine if you clean them and lightly oil. Most people pack them with grease and the grease gets stiff, especially in the winter, and they are slow to engage. And they get an impulse impact when the axle is spinning like crazy and they do manage to engage. Also, when going from reverse to forward etc, they disengage and then re-engage also causing a shock if you are hammering it. So if you keep them clean, and you realize that you have to take it easy switching directions and engaging them, then they can work just fine. They aren't any weaker than standard manual hubs once they are engaged. I used them for a long time. There are two different Warn manual hubs that fit the Ranger TTB D35. One is 29071, which is also the factory-supplied hub. It's okay, but I've seen a lot of them lose their hats when hammered on. Not going to happen on a stock-type truck being intelligently driven. The premium Warn hub 37780 was made as a kit to use on rear Jeep D35s for flat towing them. Rear axles have to be a lot stronger than front axles and these hubs are twice as heavy and I've only broken one, and the body isn't the thing that broke. Something inside got eaten. They are an exact fit, but they will be sold as a Jeep part.

One more thing. The worst hub I've used was the PileMarker 428. I believe they were lathed from a stick of frozen butter.
A C5 would die behind a 4.0 OHV. Literally. It just would. :) Like, it would absolutely just puke it's guts out. That is, at best, a weak transmission behind the 2.8.
 


adsm08

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1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31X10.50X15
Manual/auto hubs disconnect the axle at the wheel. So when not locked in, the axles and front driveshaft do not spin when the tires roll down the road. ( kinda saves on gas ...less drag so they say)
Really unlocking the front axle doesn't save that much gas. The only reason it is important on the 97 and older trucks is that the U-joints aren't meant to be constantly operated at the extreme angles they are under when turning. CV joints can handle it, which is why Ford eventually went to live axle after changing to IFS.
 

Jim Oaks

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Location
Nocona, Texas
Vehicle Year
1996 / 2021
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 / 2.3 Ecoboost
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
My preference would be a 1996-1997 4.0L 4x4 Auto. These had a better 4R55E and 5R55E transmission. Stay away from the A4LD automatic.

My second choice would be a 1983-1985 Ford Ranger 4x4 with a 2.8L and manual. These trucks don't have much to go bad and cause you electrical nightmares like newer vehicles that have more sensors. Do a Duraspark conversion on the 2.8L.
 

fyre82

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Lake Almanor, Ca.
Vehicle Year
1988/2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.9/4.0
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
9" on the 2000, 6" on the '88
Tire Size
265/75/16, 31x10.50x15
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Me being a first gen guy, my biased opinion would be an '88 manual everything.
The 2.9 isn't the best but they are easy to work on as is most of the rest of the truck.
There are parts that fit from what is it 84 to 92? Although they are getting harder to find . . .

Rich
 

6.2

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Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Automatic
Best ranger is an sas'd 06+ 4.0 lol
 

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