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Duraspark conversion carb?


Mustang Flyer

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Hello. A newbie on the site here. I've owned my 84 B2 for about a year while dealing with the horrible way it runs due to the TFI. I planned on doing the Duraspark conversion next summer but today it decided not to start. It has spark to the distributor but not out of it. Soooo...I figure my timeline has moved up to now. I downloaded the instructions from the tech library here and went to Autozone today to get the parts. They had everything but the carb. The part number listed in the instructions was no good. Does anyone have a good part number or know which Motorcraft 2150 application (vehicle/year) to use?
 


RICO9

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The 2150 I got from auto zone was for a 78 Pinto.
 

kimcrwbr1

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For now you can just use the stock carb. Get the wiring squared away the only thing you wont be able to use the electric choke but maybe you can get it to work using the 8 volts coming off the alternator. I believe it is the white with black stripe when the engine is running it produces about 8 volts and nothing when the engine is stopped. If you need to pass emissions sniffer you cant do the conversion. If your getting spark to the dizzy out of the coil then your problem is in the cap and rotor and wires I am guessing you can get it running for now until you get the parts together for the conversion. I got the dizzy harness from a 84 4 cyl ranger wiring will be real easy just plug the two wire red and white into the module connect the dizzy to the module with the green wire from the module to the neg on the coil. You can use the stock TFI coil works just fine all of the computer harness goes away. Just strip it from the 8 wire connector by the coil back to the alternator and keep the wires for the alternator, oil pressure and water temp senders intact. You will see you only need to cut a couple wires to remove the complete computer harness. If you have the overdrive tranny you will need to find a way to switch it either manually or using a pressure switch on the tranny you have a few options.
 

martin

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You can use the stock carb, just make a manual metering block to replace the computer controlled one on the back of the carb, details are on the site, somewhere.
 

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Thanks everyone for the advice. Autozone can get the 78 Pinto carb so I'll go with that. I don't really want to use my stock carb since as bad as it runs, I'm sure it needs rebuilt anyway so I'd just as soon replace it. Plus it's 17 degrees here in Missouri this morning and I'm working in a building with small heaters. Luckily, I can afford to wait for all the parts and don't need it running right away. My wife says we are the reason Ford didn't need to take a bailout from the government....

When I find a few spare moments (HA!) I'll update my profile here and try to spend more time on the forum.
 

PetesPonies

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I used a 2100 Motorcraft or Autolite. I used main jetting of 50 and it ran really well . . for a 2.8 :(
 

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I decided to go with the AutoZone carb for the Pinto. It is part # C8070A and was $262.99. The only problem is it won't be here until the 26th. NAPA had an equivalent Holley for $439, but for $170 I can wait a week.
 

kimcrwbr1

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Your gonna want to get the carb spacer felpro # 60529 when you mount the new carb. It will plug all the vacuum leaks you will have with a non feedback carb and the throttle cable will line up correct also. Just checking is you truck an automatic if so does the new carb have the kickdown lever for the tranny? You can still do the ignition It will just ,probably run a little rich but likely it will run alot better with the vacuum/mechanical advance. I spent the first day doing the ignition and then changed the carb the next weekend. Pull the idle motor off of the front of the carb preset the idle air out three turns from lightly seated and crank down on the idle stop screw by the throttle cable. To check if the egr is working while at an idle apply vacuum to the egr the engine should stall.
 

PetesPonies

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wow . . used 2100 about $20. rebuild kit about $20 . . jet. . $5, everything for under $50.
 

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Yes, my B2 is an automatic and yes, the carb I ordered is for an auto with the kickdown lever. Thanks for the info on the spacer.
 

kimcrwbr1

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The spacer is for a 302 but will work just fine. It has a gasket on both sides but they are real hard you will need one between the spacer and carb bring it down slow when you tighten it get it snug not too tite and after a few warm up cycles snug it down again. You can just hook the choke thermostat up to the coil key on posative. Where the choke preheater tube goes you will need to plug it. It goes down at an angle toward the firewall out of the choke thermostat housing it is a vacuum leak.
 

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