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Getting the fuel gauge to work!


NUguy

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Mar 18, 2013
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Vehicle Year
1990
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Ford
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Automatic
So I have a 1990 Ranger and a 1990 Bronco II. The fuel gauge in both were inoperative when purchased. I trouble-shot it down to the anti-slosh module and tried a replacement from a 91 ranger but it was bad as well.

I decided to bypass it and while it may change while turning, braking and accelerating it is accurate under steady driving. This is how I fixed it.

Removed the cluster. The anti-slosh module is the board plugged into the right side in the picture:


The anti-slosh module out:


Remove the three connections on the left side. I used pliers to pull them.


The connections removed:


Jump the other two connections. Here I used a wire but later I soldered the pins together on the back side of the board:


This has worked for both of my RBVs and to fix a friends 93 Explorer so I figured the problem is common enough that I should share.

Hope it helps. Also if you don't want to pull the other three connections you can tape over them to test it.
 


RonD

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Manual
Interesting, thanks :icon_thumby:

I always thought the aniti-slosh circuit was in the tank
 

Ranger2300

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Automatic
Two thumbs up! I'll give this a try tomorrow after work.
 

Ranger2300

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Well it may have been problematic, the gauge went from 3/8 to under 1/8 but the tank is still full. Looks like the bed has to come off. The good news is I got to clean up all the grime on the clear plastic cover, and I figured out how a second gen dash comes apart without breaking antyhing!
 

trikerider

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ford
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Automatic
great thread I have a problem w/my '94 since I was in a minor rear-ender. I checked the inertia switch altho doubted it has any bearing on the problem.
I'll check this tomorrow.
 

rhforeal

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Dec 16, 2023
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Location
NW Washington State
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
What if your anti slosh module has 4 tab connections on each side of the connector instead of three and two?
 

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