Am I crazy? Or is there something wrong with my steering?

cw40342 · Feb 10, 2016

I have a 97 Ranger 4.0l OHV it has skyjacker front springs on it I am assuming it is lifted but there is still a lot of slant to the truck. My steering however is all over the place I have had it aligned and all checked out good. When I am driving however I am constantly having to make small corrections you truly have to work to drive the truck is this normal? I am also running a 31x10.50 tire if that makes any difference at all

RonD · Feb 10, 2016

Your drive Chevys and herd Fords

So yes a little play in Ford steering is expected, always been that way, but could be your steering box is getting worn out

alwaysFlOoReD · Feb 10, 2016

The ttb and tib front suspensions are really touchy if you lift without using all the proper brackets. Check the stickies at the top of the appropriate forum, there is some good info there.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

4x4junkie · Feb 10, 2016

Yeah this is not normal.

Three possibilities most likely:

1.
Your steering gear box has too much slack in it.

2.
Your steering column rag joint has given up the ghost.

3.
Your steering linkage is not matched with your lift (subject matter in the link AlwaysFloored posted).

If #1 turns out to be the case, there is a meshload adjuster on the top of the steering box that might help to take up the slack, but if the box is very worn, this won't remove the slack entirely (in which case you'll need to replace it).
WARNING: Do not overtighten the adjuster, otherwise you'll bind up the box which (at best) can damage the box, or (at worst) cause you to lose control of the truck and lead to a collision.
Best way to make sure the box doesn't bind is to disconnect the steering linkage from the pitman arm... Loosen the jam nut and then tighten the inner screw just enough until you feel it bind slightly right as you rotate the steering across center, then back it off just enough to relieve the bind, and retighten the jam nut.

There should be some past threads on this subject if you put in the term "Meshload" into the forum's Search box.

kimcrwbr1 · Feb 10, 2016

Maybe give it a slight toe in adjustment. Line the drivers side front and rear tires in a straight line and look at the passenger side the front tire should be slightly pointing toward the left. Just a thought?
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Alignment.shtml

cw40342 · Feb 10, 2016

4x4junkie said:
Yeah this is not normal.

Three possibilities most likely:

1.
Your steering gear box has too much slack in it.

2.
Your steering column rag joint has given up the ghost.

3.
Your steering linkage is not matched with your lift (subject matter in the link AlwaysFloored posted).

If #1 turns out to be the case, there is a meshload adjuster on the top of the steering box that might help to take up the slack, but if the box is very worn, this won't remove the slack entirely (in which case you'll need to replace it).
WARNING: Do not overtighten the adjuster, otherwise you'll bind up the box which (at best) can damage the box, or (at worst) cause you to lose control of the truck and lead to a collision.
Best way to make sure the box doesn't bind is to disconnect the steering linkage from the pitman arm... Loosen the jam nut and then tighten the inner screw just enough until you feel it bind slightly right as you rotate the steering across center, then back it off just enough to relieve the bind, and retighten the jam nut.

There should be some past threads on this subject if you put in the term "Meshload" into the forum's Search box.

Number 1&2 I feel could be the problem possibly when I had it aligned it took very little to get it in straight the cams are a 2 1/2 degree. At best the lift only gave me 2" unfortunately I can't remember what it drove like before i did the lift.

Is there a definitive way to tell if my steering box is bad? I've adjusted it as per what I've read on here and nothing changes it.

What is and where is the rag joint?

cw40342 · Feb 10, 2016

4x4junkie said:
Yeah this is not normal.

Three possibilities most likely:

1.
Your steering gear box has too much slack in it.

2.
Your steering column rag joint has given up the ghost.

3.
Your steering linkage is not matched with your lift (subject matter in the link AlwaysFloored posted).

If #1 turns out to be the case, there is a meshload adjuster on the top of the steering box that might help to take up the slack, but if the box is very worn, this won't remove the slack entirely (in which case you'll need to replace it).
WARNING: Do not overtighten the adjuster, otherwise you'll bind up the box which (at best) can damage the box, or (at worst) cause you to lose control of the truck and lead to a collision.
Best way to make sure the box doesn't bind is to disconnect the steering linkage from the pitman arm... Loosen the jam nut and then tighten the inner screw just enough until you feel it bind slightly right as you rotate the steering across center, then back it off just enough to relieve the bind, and retighten the jam nut.

There should be some past threads on this subject if you put in the term "Meshload" into the forum's Search box.

alwaysFlOoReD said:
The ttb and tib front suspensions are really touchy if you lift without using all the proper brackets. Check the stickies at the top of the appropriate forum, there is some good info there.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

Even with the 2" you think I'd need brackets or longer radius arms?

cw40342 · Feb 10, 2016

What about radius arm bushings or any other bushings that could cause this? The truck has 199,000 miles in sure stuff is wore out.

bobbywalter · Feb 10, 2016

depending if the beams are over or under center, depends on what toe bias i use. over i toe out, under i toe in.

the radius arm bushings will do this as well.

and when lifted, i prefer heavier then specified caster....so just because it is within spec does not mean you will have optimal results with drive-ability.

cw40342 · Feb 10, 2016

bobbywalter said:
depending if the beams are over or under center, depends on what toe bias i use. over i toe out, under i toe in.

the radius arm bushings will do this as well.

and when lifted, i prefer heavier then specified caster....so just because it is within spec does not mean you will have optimal results with drive-ability.

I'll talk to the guys who did the alignment on the truck and have them look at the radius arm bushings.

cw40342 · Feb 10, 2016

bobbywalter said:
depending if the beams are over or under center, depends on what toe bias i use. over i toe out, under i toe in.

the radius arm bushings will do this as well.

and when lifted, i prefer heavier then specified caster....so just because it is within spec does not mean you will have optimal results with drive-ability.

Wow that's some good info I had a 3.5 degree on it before they swapped them out

alwaysFlOoReD · Feb 10, 2016

The rag joint is what connects the steering box to the shaft of the steering column. Get under the hood and have someone turn the steering wheel slowly back and forth while you look at the shaft and pitman arm. They should turn at exactly the same time. If not then you can narrow it down by finding where the discrepancy is, the rag joint or the steering box, or both.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

cw40342 · Feb 11, 2016

alwaysFlOoReD said:
The rag joint is what connects the steering box to the shaft of the steering column. Get under the hood and have someone turn the steering wheel slowly back and forth while you look at the shaft and pitman arm. They should turn at exactly the same time. If not then you can narrow it down by finding where the discrepancy is, the rag joint or the steering box, or both.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

Sweet I'll get someone to one help and see if that's what's going on with it it would be nice to get this sorted driving me crazy!

Am I crazy? Or is there something wrong with my steering?

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