94 2.3l thermostat removal

mack_attack · Jul 20, 2009

Im having trouble trying to remove the thermostat to replace it on my 2.3l. It seems like you need to take the timing belt cover off to get to the 2 bolts holding it on, but after I took the screw out of the cover and popped all the fasteners out I couldnt get the cover out :icon_confused:

. Does anybody know the steps to take to remove the thermostat on a 94' 2.3?

locovaca · Jul 20, 2009

I was able to do it on my 93 without removing the cover. You won't be able to get the timing cover off completely but you should be able to bend it enough out to get a socket on the bolt. It was a pain but it can be done.

mack_attack · Jul 20, 2009

is the 93 and 94 the same setup under the hood?

locovaca · Jul 21, 2009

Yes, they are the same generation.

mack_attack · Jul 21, 2009

will running it in the high end of the cold range or right on the line of normal cause any harm?

locovaca · Jul 22, 2009

Well, it depends on if it really is at that temp (thermostat open, running too cold), or if your $4 sender is just bum. My sensor was bum for a long time and it never got that warm on the gauge, but the engine was running normal temp. If you're not getting poor MPGs or running odd, that's probably your problem. You'll have to drain coolant to replace the sender as well but they really are a piece of crap and go bad frequently.

If it really is running at that temp, then you will get lower MPGs.

Powerzombie · Jul 22, 2009

Maybe that's my problem....the truck seems to put out a ton of heat and I am getting between 27 and 29 mpg, but the truck shows a low running temp. (just above the lowest cold line).

scotts90ranger · Jul 22, 2009

that's normal, mine's been doing that for 9 years, it's just where the 2.3 gage seems to work...

mack_attack · Jul 22, 2009

so how should I go about checking the gauge sending unit?

locovaca · Jul 22, 2009

You pull the part and stick it in near boiling water and check the resistance. I don't know what your financial situation is, but it's a $7 part at your local autozone. If you're willing to go through the trouble of pulling the sender (which requires draining the coolant and getting into an somewhat awkward, blind spot to get the sender, pretty much next to the oil filter), just dump the $7 into a new one and put the new one back.

But if you insist on testing it, 73 ohms should be the cold mark and 10 ohms should be the hot mark. When I replaced mine it was barely hitting cold, and afterwards it ran right about 2/5 the way in the normal range.

scotts90ranger · Jul 22, 2009

my '89 and '86 sensors read exactly the same... I just figure if it stands straight up, gotta be careful

only problem with that theory is the difference between my explorer and ranger, since the explorers actually works, so I should probably fix the rangers...

Fuelaltered · Oct 14, 2017

thermostat

mack_attack said:
so how should I go about checking the gauge sending unit?

Can check actual temp by getting it up to normal operating, and carefully removing rad cap, install a thermometer. Most auto supply stores have the especially for that use.

tomw · Oct 16, 2017

Altered:"Can check actual temp by getting it up to normal operating, and carefully removing rad cap, install a thermometer."

I would sooner use a non-contact thermometer. Messing with hot coolant that could be under pressure is not a 'fun project'. Using a non-contact, just point it at the thermostat housing or the upper radiator hose. It should read in the 190F range, somewhere, not exactly 195F which was the spec for most thermostats in Limas.
If you don't get into the 190's, the thermostat may not be closing all the way.

If you want to check your gauge, temporarily touch the sender wire to ground. The gauge will wham over to full HOT reading with the key in ON. I would not leave it connected to ground for long, as it moves so fast that it seems as if it's over-loaded with volts.
I tried replacing the sender without draining. Big mistake. Coolant was all over the place, so I jammed the old one back in and drained the system(what had not already drizzled out) and then replaced it. I used Teflon tape on the threads. It will seal, and still give electrical contact for the sender to work.
tom

94 2.3l thermostat removal

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals