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M5OD custom bent shifter pics


cp2295

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Anybody ever made a bent shifter for an M5OD like the fm145 has? Swapping a 4.0 and an M5OD into the b2 and noticed that the shifter sits a couple inches forward, and I’ll have to notch the body a little to accept the shift plate. I have a feeling I’m going to dislike how far forward the shifter is gonna sit (especially since it’s straight for the M5OD). Wondering if could just chop both shifters up and weld the fm145 upper shifter portion to the M5OD base.

Also nobody has come across any issue with the t case shifter position correct? I have the shifter/bracketry from the donor Explorer.


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My experience has been that the t-case shifter sits in more or less the same spot.

I originally toyed with the idea of kit-bashing the M5OD and FM145 shifters, but gave up on it as overly complex for little gains. It didn't take much getting used to though, but I had also put quite a few hours in behind the wheel of my dad's F-150 with an M5OD by the time I did that swap.
 

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I've no issues with the M5OD & 1354M in mine.
I don't recall having to cut the body itself (floorpan) to fit the shifter, all the cutting was on the floor plate that goes into the floor opening.
If you can get an M5OD floor plate (and shifter boot), you probably wouldn't have to cut anything at all. The M5OD started to get it's use in RBVs in 1988, so the correct M5OD plate should fit the floor I'm thinking.
 
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adsm08

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I've no issues with the M5OD & 1354M in mine.
I don't recall having to cut the body itself (floorpan) to fit the shifter, all the cutting was on the floor plate that goes into the floor opening.
If you can get an M5OD floor plate (and shifter boot), you probably wouldn't have to cut anything at all. The M5OD started to get it's use in RBVs in 1988, so the correct M5OD plate should fit the floor I'm thinking.
I think the floor pan is stamped differently between 87 and 88.

When I swapped my 87 I had to take a 3/4" half moon out to get the shifter tower to clear the floor pan, and make a custom floor plate. I had to make the same modification to the new cab, which was also an 87.

On my 88 when I did the same swap I rammed that sucker in there and it fit pretty well, just curled the floor plate a bit at the front of the hole. No cutting required.

Since an FM145 is in play here, I am guessing we are talking about something no newer than 87.
 

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The floor plate is different.

1st gen 83 to like 87? Maybe 88 as well, I don't remember? have a floor plate that is a couple inches shorter. It lines up and bolts in place in a newer truck but doesn't fill up one end of the hole.

Since this is an older truck, you could get a newer floor plate and cut it down to fit. Or cut your floor plate to accommodate the shifter being further toward the front of the truck.
 

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The floor plate is different.

1st gen 83 to like 87? Maybe 88 as well, I don't remember? have a floor plate that is a couple inches shorter. It lines up and bolts in place in a newer truck but doesn't fill up one end of the hole.

Since this is an older truck, you could get a newer floor plate and cut it down to fit. Or cut your floor plate to accommodate the shifter being further toward the front of the truck.
I don't know when they switched but an '88 floor pan is different than an '85.

I intended to do something different than a stock M5OD shifter mainly because I don't care for the full length boot. I never got to the part of figuring out was actually under said shift boot before going in a different direction though.
 
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cp2295

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Yeah I’m finding the shifter is not in such a bad spot, I got a 99 ranger that I’ve had for 5 years and it’s sitting about where it is so not really any problems there, think I’m just gonna run it until (or if) it becomes annoying. I did have to cut the floor plate, and assuming I will have to make a custom shift plate.

Running into a separate issue now, you guys may be able to chime in. I’m finding the 93 explorers master doesn’t fit the firewall at all, and the clutch line doesn’t seem to happy either. I tried shoving the clutch line from the explorers master into my Broncos stock master but that ain’t working either.

After some research I’m finding I’ll have to get a slave/master/hose from a 91-92 ranger 4.0. Apparently the slave has a different connection vs 93+ (why the hell would they decide to change it...) Anybody have solid answers if this is the right combo for my application? Not too happy about having to pull the trans again and lose the money on that slave I just bought! Even more fun when my crossmember also holds my links lol.


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The master/line/slave from an 88-92 should work correctly. I have used parts from all those years without issue.

The slave connection did change, but I was unaware of a change at the firewall. I don't know why they did it.

When I made my custom plate I pretty much just traced out the hole in my original on a piece of sheet tin, cut it out, and then attached it to the floor with self-tappers trying to hit the original holes as best I could. It sounds mickey-mouse when I type it all out like that, but it has held together for almost 12 years without issue.
 
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cp2295

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The master/line/slave from an 88-92 should work correctly. I have used parts from all those years without issue.

The slave connection did change, but I was unaware of a change at the firewall. I don't know why they did it.

When I made my custom plate I pretty much just traced out the hole in my original on a piece of sheet tin, cut it out, and then attached it to the floor with self-tappers trying to hit the original holes as best I could. It sounds mickey-mouse when I type it all out like that, but it has held together for almost 12 years without issue.


Cool really appreciate the replies (from all of you guys), the floor plate is the least of my worries, just my wheeler but sounds like I’m gonna end up making some Mickey Mouse BS like that lol! The change in the firewall mounting is due to the way ford slapped their firewall together, the 93+ master hits a seam on the 86 B2s body, and I don’t believe the holes will line up either. I know the hose definitely is all jacked to hell, did not want to fit at all-all sorts of crazy bends in it.

I ordered a centric master/slave/hose assembly today for a 91 4.0 ranger so it should work out well. Wish I could’ve gotten a luk but they don’t offer a whole kit unfortunately, hopefully this centric doesn’t leak on me. Got the tranny and slave out after work today so hopefully I’ll get it back together this weekend and finally be able to start working on the wiring for the 4.0 and get her fired up.

I’ll let ya know if it goes together smoothly, fingers crossed, thanks for the help.


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cp2295

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Well the 91 setup worked perfect for me, everything went together smooth. Was pre bled and even got a metal slave cylinder.

Out of curiosity, those who have swapped from an fm145 to M5OD did you use a driveshaft out of a b2 with an a4ld or would that not work?

When I SASd it (with a Cherokee Dana 30) and swapped a 1354 the stock rear driveline worked great (somehow..) and the front driveline I pulled from a 94 ranger worked great too, I believe that ranger had an M5OD (been a little while). So I’m pretty sure I’ll have to lengthen the front, don’t think there’s a longer option, maybe one from a 5r55e would work? And as for the rear from what I know, the a4ld is longer than the fm145, right? Worse case I pay someone to get them setup (oh well).


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The driveshaft from an A4LD should work fine.

I did that swap an a Ranger, not a B2, but the M5OD and A4LD are the same length. My catalog only lists one shaft length for the 88, and I reused that when I went from FM146 to M5OD.
 

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