1988 ford ranger 2.3 need help

I just thought of something...remembered actually...

There is a 10 or so wire connector just under the hood past the firewall...it has the lights, horn, and signal wires...along with that is a thicker black with orange stripe wire...and it has a connector about the same area...or just by the wiper fluid container...check that wire very carefully and the connector...those were the ones that were frayed down to a single strand on my 88...lost power a few times before finding that frayed wire...

If that doesn't work...

Get a volt meter if you don;t have one...or a simple test light...and check from the battery outward.

Thank you I will look at it more in the morning

Given that this problem is into its 3rd page, I would suggest going back to what was back in July. The oil light sending unit is just a switch to ground. There is power coming from 'somewhere else' that should not be there with the ignition in the OFF position.
I won't go back and read all the older posts, but did you ever check the ACTUAL ignition switch mounted on the top of the steering column under the plastic cover? I have had one come apart, literally, due to age. I am not sure what would get hooked to what as it disintegrated. The metal 'ears' holding the switch together were not holding any more. I re-bent them, but it did not last.
If you take everything off that you have replaced and go back to all the old parts, after checking the ignition switch, then you know what you have worked, except that it stopped. The computers do not go bad. It is rare. All the harnesses do not go bad. It is rare. The plugs, wires, rotor, cap do not 'go bad' overnight and prevent an engine from starting. If they do, it is RARE to make up a motif.
If things click when you connect the battery, they are drawing juice. They are not supposed to draw juice with the key in OFF. There are most likely two solenoid operated vacuum switches under the plastic cover to the rear of the battery. They are connected to the EGR valve and to the vacuum source. They operate the EGR valve.
The starter relay should be grounded, should have all of the power items connected to the large post that has the battery + cable connected. The other large post should have ONE wire that goes to the starter post. The small post on the relay is connected to the ignition switch, and will operate the relay if jumpered to the + post of the battery. If the relay is operated, the starter motor will try to crank the engine over, so if you test, be sure you have the brakes on, and the transmission in neutral(or Park).
Please verify that the real switch is not coming apart and leading to all these other things. If you put it back to where you were when all this started, then go through testing before throwing parts at it. I'm sure the other posters will help.
tom

Thank you mark I pulled the black wire with an orange stripe out and found three places that were broke in it I now have power back in my truck.

Excellent! Glad that worked for you...

Although I have power back in the truck it still will not start. I will just save up the money and hope a mechanic can fix it.

Geez, if only you could afford to fly one of us over to you and we could fix it...

But it's usually not that hard to figure out once things are working the way they should. Spark, air, fuel...all you need to fire the engine.

I know I've fought with mine enough over the years and the amount of frustration can be huge sometimes...but I will say...99% of the time it was something really simple...a wire off here...something not tight there...

In fact, the hardest thing I've ever encountered was when my distributor stopped spinning and I couldn't see that when I had the cap on...and it blew my muffler off because the fuel was pooling in the exhaust system...lol

And I only found that one after the muffler blew off because I had someone crank the engine while I looked...just to be sure it was working...sure enough...the pin was broken...

do you have a timing light by any chance?

I do have a timing light.

Well, not sure if you've done this test but now that you can crank the engine...hook the timing light up to the plug wire and crank the engine over to check for spark...you can do them one at a time just in case there is a dead spot in the cap...but it will tell you if you have spark more clearly (generally) but you may need an eagle eye...

That will eliminate 30% of the equation...

Fuel can be checked by pulling one of the plugs after you crank the engine a few times...but do not hold down the gas pedal or even pump it.

If you are not getting fuel on the plugs from this, spray starter fluid into the throttle body and crank...if it fires, the issue is fuel supply...

The air is a given as long as the filter isn't plugged.

From that diagnostic we can work either way to get it running...it's gotta be a spark or fuel issue though...and sometimes we just need to walk through it a bit slower.

I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail but injectors are not engaging.

Did you try starting with starter fluid before discovering this or did you test the injector pulse? It would be nice to know if it actually started with the fluid...anyway...

You have a MAP sensor on the firewall...passenger side. It has an electrical connection as well as a vacuum line connected to it...disconnect the MAP sensor (leave vacuum connected) and see if the truck fires up...or the injector pulse returns...

The MAP sensor, if wonky, can throw the computer off enough to not pulse the injectors...read that in another thread on here recently...

PS: Do not buy a new MAP sensor if that is the problem...you can usually pick them up at a junkyard for next to nothing...a new MAP sensor can cost $100 or more...but not necessary...

Used starter fluid

The injectors should have 12v on one connection when the key is ON. The ground will be supplied by the computer when it wants to fire the injector. Actually, you will have 12v on both connections if you probe while the injector is still connected{given the injector windings are not open}.
tom

I have no power at the injectors

I looked on here for one of RonD's famous explanations but found this instead...

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/eec-power-relay-tests-1

It tells you how to test the ecc (brown) relay...which sends power to the injectors...

I will let you read through that and test it...and try to find something local...