I want to elimate all electric components... 01 Ranger

Well not all. But everything unnecessary, me and the truck work hard, play harder. Ive sunk it before. and im constantly having electrical issues. Now yes im an idiot truck dont belong underwater. I know. I dont plan on doing so again. But late nights on the trails, stupid things happen. Basically the help im looking for is a list of every electrical component that that can be taken out with the truck still running and at least looking street legal. We took a dodge neon and turned it into a race car, everything that wasnt needed was taken out to avoid shorts, one by one we unplugged one sensor, started the engine. if it ran cut it out, if it didnt, plug it back in. Since this took about two days straight, im hoping to avoid this process and just snip snip and get in and go. Any advice is apreciated.

About the only thing not necessary for operation is lights, door dinger, and ac. You can switch to mechanical gauges. These trucks don't have alot of unnecessary wiring.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

power windows, door locks, dome lamp, lights, ac, door dinger, 4x4 control *convert to manual select*, air bag control, convert to machanical gauges, radio, spaekers

Yes, no unnecessary wiring in a Ranger engine.

Maybe you want to switch to a carb and distributor engine, with just a temp sender and oil pressure sender.
Could put in a V8 as well and have a pretty much wire free environment under the hood.
Change the fuel tank setup for mechanical fuel pump and your all set.

Cutting sensor wires as you described on the Neon would be, well, dumb, lol.
If the sensor wasn't needed, and engine ran fine without it then a short in that circuit wouldn't bother anything so why bother cutting it out?
What would be the benefit?

And I can't think of that many sensors in any case.
TPS, tells computer when and where your foot is on the gas pedal
MAF, tells the computer how much air is coming in and at what temperature so it can set proper fuel/air mix
ECT, electronic choke for fuel injected engines, computer runs engine rich with higher idle until engine warms up
O2 x 3, tells computer if it's MAF fuel/air mix is ok, fine tunes lean/rich, 3rd O2 tells computer if Cat is working
CPS, used by computer to time fuel injectors and sometimes rpm
CKP, tells computer the crank shaft is moving so start ignition/spark, also used to detect misfires and rpm

Not really sensors
EGR, opens to allow exhaust gas into intake, this makes engine run cooler under load(no pinging) and lowers emissions
IAC, controlled vacuum leak used by computer to set idle levels
Dash board Temp gauge sender
Oil pressure sender/switch
Oil level sender/switch(on oil pan) if so equipped

Non-engine sensors
EVAP, tells computer if fuel system is sealed, prevents gas fumes from leaking out of the fuel system.

But all sensors are used at one time or another, some are not 24/7.
Computer controlled engines are more efficient, that's why they are the way they are, carbs and distributors wasted fuel.
If MPG is not on your must have list then I would look at an engine swap, without computer control

Another way to accomplish what you want is to isolate the electrical components. I've never done this but have heard of people using air tight plastic food containers and silicone to protect the coils. Raise the computer as high as possible, I got mine to behind the dash without much problem on my '84 b-II. Di-electric grease on all connecters. Most connecters are now weather proof but some silicone where the wire enters the connecter can't hurt.

Richard

Go get a 80-something Ranger and start from there. lol

2001 is too new with all its safety features like ABS and airbags, not to mention PATS and whatever else.

Yota bash!

Surrey said:

Go get a 80-something Ranger and start from there. lol

Click to expand...

Better yet start with an older Toyota. Those trucks are accustom to a flood of puppy dog tears from owners who cry about losing out to their neighbors' Ford both in terms of Performance and Class.