It's gotta be the hard way!!

Captain Ledd · Oct 17, 2014

I don't know anything specific, but I can guess that since it's an 89, at best it's OBDI. OBDI was better and slightly more efficient at running things, but still didn't really do all that much. Any inputs from the transmission would be fairly minimal. I'd say it'll run fine.

My GMC is OBDI and most of the catalytic converter fell apart. I had to cut the pipe open and dump it all out. Computer says everything is A-okay. just prior to that, the y-pipe broke at the manifold and there was a 4" gap dumping straight out of the headers. The computers reaction? "what problem?, you're good!"

(my post in another thread)

brentmc · Oct 17, 2014

I know most of the older computer controlled cars don't have an O2 sensor behind the cat. So deleting it not a problem. The only thing I'm worried about is how the timing/throttle response. My 99 7.3 psd are transmission specific. I.E. fuel curve and such. I know there's no cable on its throttle is a drive by wire.

brentmc · Oct 22, 2014

Well the 5.8 fell through. The wife didn't want another junker here. So I guess I'll just keep on going the way I already am. I couldn't use the Rangers stock shifter for the t-case. the Trans and T-case shifters look goofy with the custom bends.

brentmc · Oct 28, 2014

I picked up a serpentine setup from the local junk yard for a whole 38 bucks! I'm just waiting on the timing chain cover from Ebay. I don't think I did to bad on the price for everything. I'm at less than 75 bucks for all of it! I had to trim the frame rail a bit so the power steering pump bracket wouldn't hit it.

brentmc · Oct 28, 2014

brentmc · Oct 28, 2014

brentmc · Oct 30, 2014

I didn't like the way how close the valve cover sat next to the hvac box. So I decided to give it a trim.

Since I have it off I'm going to get another can of the right color to repaint both valve covers. When I got the paint the engine one of them had the wrong top on it. I was being lazy and didn't want to go back to the parts store to get the right one. It's bugged me ever since.

brentmc · Nov 5, 2014

I tore the instrument cluster out and did a tach swap from a full sized bronco with a v8. But I didn't want the tach needle not to match the rest of the cluster. I had to drill out the hub of the needle from the ranger to insert part of the old needle stem into it from the broncos tach. The hardest part was removing the mount that holds the tach in place on the Rangers face plate. The stupid thing is glued on while the bronco had 3 screws. The warning lites weren't in the same locations from the bronco to the Rangers face plate that's why I did the extra work.
So long story short I used the guts from the bronco and the face plate from the ranger to make my tach.

brentmc · Nov 6, 2014

Well got her fired up tonight! I still need to get new exhuast pipes put on, it sounds like an old farm truck. Anyways my starter didn't like it tho the darm thing will not disengage so I guess it'll be getting a new one of those too.
Quick question for you all about the stock fuel lines. What are the threaded ends? Are they a reverse flare? Can I buy those over the counter? The reason I'm asking is I keep searching and coming up empty handed. I've got the stock pump to work without the ecm controlling it (going with a carb for now) and kept the inertia switch hooked up for safety.

brentmc · Nov 15, 2014

WTF!! I'm slowly losing oil pressure. At first it was just lower than normal (this is the second truck is been in) I thought it might have just been the remote filter setup having the smaller 1/2 inch lines. I bought new 5/8 lines and larger barb fittings to go with the new lines. The oil pressure was pulsing/surging up and down probably around 5-10lbs. Now is just slowly dropping. Before I fired it back up I ran the oil pump with a drill and it didn't have a lot of resistance. I had to swap oil pans and I hope it's the pick up tube that is pulling air. Tomorrow I'm going to get a manual gauge and check to make sure it's not my gauge that's reading incorrectly.

brentmc · Nov 16, 2014

Checked the oil pressure gauge out and its not reading correctly. I googled it and found out that the gauge is more of an idiot light than a gauge by the way ford set them up from the factory. I plan on doing the mod to that in the morning.

AllanD · Nov 17, 2014

adsm08 said:
Some firewall massage will be required. I measured for a 4.9 swap once and found if you place the back of the block in the same location as a stock V6 you have less than 3" from the end of the crank pulley to the radiator.

you must mention that the required "massage" needs to be applied with a sledge hammer or an air hammer, and don't fail to consider the use of a backhoe or explosives... (or conversely a plasma cutter a MIG welder and a sheet metal bending break)

I remember trying (and failing) to help a friend replace a 200cid L-6 ford engine in a 1968 shoebox bronco with a 240 L6 (the smaller brother of the 4.9)
and then with a 302 before realizing just how much ford modified the firewall to allow the different engines in the '66-'77 Bronco

we eventally gave up and used a 250-l6 out of a Maverick that I bought as a replacement for the identical engine in a friend's '69 Fairlane wagon (which I eventually put the 302 and C4 into..)

brentmc · Nov 17, 2014

I still have my 67 bronco that I bought in my 10th grade year of high school. Haven't really given it much thought but I cant believe it's been 25 years! Damn I'm getting err got old. Anyways after the Ranger is all done I'll be getting to my 67 and finishing it up. It's way to ugly to restore to show room quality. So it'll be getting the beater upper fixer upper special. So far too date it's on its 3 tranny and 4 motor. The first tranny took a huge poo from being behind a fairly healthy 351. The ol girl would pull the tires of the ground from 1st-2nd gear shifts, and yes they weren't very smooth shifts either. The 2nd tranny is still in good shape I just swaped it for a C4. I consider using the old manual trans in the ranger with the Dana 20 but didn't. As for all of the motors, I always wanted more power! So now it has an Australian 351w that's been ported polished with gasket matching with a 10.5-1 compression. I dont recall the exact cam grind but I believe its somewhere in The neighborhood of a 290° duration. It was rebuilt for a buddies father inlaw. They had it in his street stock race car for one race it had a miss and way low on power. The driver said it would barley pull 3000 rpm by the end of the straight track and then dog out in the corner. He said F#*k it! I bought it for 600 bucks all I had to its replace the intake gasket that was misaligned. It came with a set of hooker headers, a nice aluminum intake and eldelbrook elite signature series valve covers. Anyhow I'm just taking my time and enjoying my unemployment...

brentmc · Nov 25, 2014

I have a quick question about track bar mounts. I just finally received the fa600 pitman arm. So my question is what's the best track bar mount for a dd? I'm looking at some Ruff Stuff mounts because you can't build them for the same price as you can buy them. 40 bucks oout of pocket vs my time and consumables.

brentmc · Nov 30, 2014

I really didn't like the funky shifter bends. So I copied the gear banger setup. Boy howdy does it make the shifts shorter. I'm going to call it my super man shifter because of the colors I had on hand lol.

It's gotta be the hard way!!

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Attachments

New Member

New Member

New Member

Attachments

New Member

Attachments

New Member

New Member

New Member

TRS Technical Staff

New Member

New Member

New Member

Attachments

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals