Motorcraft 2v carb question...

96Indyram · Apr 14, 2014

I have a old Motorcraft 2v carb sitting on the shelf in great shape ( think it came off one of my old 390, 400, or 429 engines but I cant remember)

the brass data tag has this...
D2AF FD
A 2D 4

Just curious if this carb will work good on a 2.8 when I do the duraspark conversion.

I tried searching the old interweb...and tried the search here and couldent find any info that was helpful.

I am curious on CFM and venturi size. Tomorrow I might look at it some more and see if I can get more numbers from the carb.

adsm08 · Apr 14, 2014

Something that fed a big cube engine like that, pushing or passing 400 inches, is likely to go all Noah on the 2.8.

96Indyram · Apr 14, 2014

Now thats funny! "go all Noah on the 2.8"
Flood the cylinders out 2 by 2...

I did more searching...the only info I came up with was said it came out on a 1972
351cid. 2100carb

Still nothing on venturi or jet size or cfm flow.

Looking on the 2.8 tech page they say use a 350cfm 2v.... or 390cfm 4v

Twister · Apr 14, 2014

The venturi size should be stamped on it somewhere, its probably a 1.21

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

tmcalavy · Apr 14, 2014

Might work...I know you can hit the Holley site and match CFM to cubic inches, per their recommendations. Is the 2.8 a 6-banger? I've seen guys years ago drop six Rochesters on a flathead six that couldn't be much larger than a 2.8L. You don't want to go much over 500 CFM or it will go all Noah on it...no matter what the venturi or jet size is, or modified to be. Why are carbing a 2.8? Not to make it roar, I hope...plus your mpgs is going to be about 10, maybe 12.

96Indyram · Apr 14, 2014

tmcalavy:
The ranger is a 84. It has a 2.8 v6 (171cid) and is factory carburated.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8L_Performance.shtml

it has a pos 2v that is a computer controlled Motorcraft carburetor.

I was going to duraspark converson the motor and get rid of the computer controlled carb and tfi ignition and go with a "old school carb and points distributor" like they had on them in the 70's.

unless I can find a really good deal on a 302 to stick in there...I will rebuild and use the 2.8

tmcalavy · Apr 15, 2014

Okay, good to know the rest. You're right on track then, but good luck finding anything meaningful on Motorcraft carbs that tell you CFM...they are hard rascals to identify in that way. If you can find the venturi size stamped on the housing somewhere you can go online and get a simple formula to figure the CFM...used to know that by heart, but it's been a long time since I fooled with carbed engines every day. If nothing else, you can bolt that puppy down after you clean and rebuild it...if it's too much for the engine you'll know in short order...everytime you get on the throttle, it'll dog way down and then die and it'll be way overloaded with fuel inside. If it responds to the throttle, but not well, you're in the ballpark and need to adjust jet size, float setting, accelerator pump stroke, etc. Sounds daunting, but it's really pretty simple. If you can find an old engine guy with just a few teeth left, he can help you sort it out real fast. Good luck.

kimcrwbr1 · Apr 15, 2014

On the side of the float bowl under the acclelerator pump link is a round circle with the venturi embossed in it. More than likely a 1.21 and you will never get it to run well off idle there is not enough cfm going through the carb to atomize the fuel correct coming out of the venturi booster. Find a 1.08 venturi and put #42 jets in.

kimcrwbr1 · Apr 15, 2014

96Indyram · Apr 15, 2014

Thanks for the info !
I looked and it has 1.08 on the side...so thats good.
Not sure on the jet sizes until i tear it apart...but i can replace jets pretty easy.

kimcrwbr1 · Apr 15, 2014

It was probably for a 302 be sure and get a new carb spacer felpro number 60529. With a sheet of 200 grit surface the base of the carb until it all shines the same by pulling in one direction only on a glass table. Put a new gasket between the carb and the spacer and just pul it down slow to nice and snug do not over tighten it. If the choke has the preheater tube fitting get a cap for a home A/C service valve to plug the hole or just pull the fitting and install a brass plug. That is a vacuum leak that will drive you nuts to try and fix. The spacer seals the base of the carb good to the egr spacer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-60529-Carburetor-Base-Gasket-/221378736789?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338b337295&vxp=mtr

tmcalavy · Apr 15, 2014

Most carbs are factory jetted for sea level. If you're at altitude, say 1,500 feet above sea level or more, you can change the jet size to accomodate...Holley web site has a chart...can't remember if you go up or down a size for each difference of 1,000 feet.

a31ford · Apr 16, 2014

Leaner as you climb (this is why planes fly so high)

96Indyram · Apr 16, 2014

Here in the good old land of dodah Ks. I am at 1,300 elevation...and that is where the truck will stay.
if i remember correctly... you really only have to change the jet size if going over 3000' in altitude eveything else can be done by fine tuning the mixture screws. It's been a long time since I have done a carb..LOL

tmcalavy · Apr 17, 2014

96Indyram said:
Here in the good old land of dodah Ks. I am at 1,300 elevation...and that is where the truck will stay.
if i remember correctly... you really only have to change the jet size if going over 3000' in altitude eveything else can be done by fine tuning the mixture screws. It's been a long time since I have done a carb..LOL

Yup, funny how doin stuff you haven't done in a long time jogs the memory. Couple of years ago I bought and restored a 69 F250 and had a load of fun with the V8 and carb(s). I remembered stuff from way, way, way back when I first started driving while messin' with that F250 engine. It was like Sherman and Mr. Peabody's "Wayback" time machine.

Motorcraft 2v carb question...

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