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94 Ranger 2.3L Suddenly Died


wildbill23c

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A friend just picked up a 94 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed pickup a couple weeks ago, its been doing great up until today, crossed an intersection and it just died, cranks but don't start. Going to do more checking in daylight tomorrow, don't suspect a timing belt as it doesn't turn over and make noise like a timing belt failure. Thinking it has to be fuel related as he says it acts like it isn't getting any fuel, so being fuel injected I'm far from a fuel injection expert, what should be checked? Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure can be checked on this engine somehow, but no fuel rail these look to be throttle body injected?

Any tips and ideas would be greatly appreciated. Not my truck, but I knew I couldn't stay away from an RBV very long LOL. Love these little trucks that is until they don't run LOL.
 


tinman_72

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I wouldn't rule out timing belt. Lima 2.3's are non-interference motors so when the belt breaks it will just turn over.
The fuel rail is down inside the intake manifold, kind of hard to see if you don't know where to look. Look towards the back of the motor near the manifold and you can see the fuel pressure regulator, which is of course bolted to the fuel rail. The schrader valve is close to the FPR.
 

tomw

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I'd bet on a belt. They fail whenever they want, with no warning. Many fail at startup, trying to get the cam turning and they just happen to have the weak spot at the cranshaft sprocket, where the teeth get sheared off.
A quick check is to put the crank pulley at TDC, and remove the rubber/plastic plug behind the upper radiator hose. Look at the edge of the cam sprocket for a diamond or triangle meeting a pointer. If no match, rotate the crankshaft 360 back to TDC, and check again. If no match, belt time. The mark is hard to see on some, so cleaning the edge may be required. The mark would be at about the 4:00 position if the cover had been removed. Pointer can be extended from the face of the engine block or a 'rib' cast on the front of the head/block.
tom
 

wildbill23c

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2WD
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0
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0
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215/70-R14
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Called him this morning and told him to check the timing belt, as well as the crankshaft position sensor. Turns over, getting fuel. Told him to check spark before he tries anything else.

Diagnosing vehicle problems is so much easier when the vehicle is sitting in front of you LOL. Told him to bring it up to me so I can look at it LOL.
 

Mazda

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I am betting on the belt as well. Do what tomw says and I'm sure the belt has split. But if not check spark on the exhaust side as that's the side that starts the engine.

Since you didn't state if he hears the fuel pump come on check the fuel cutoff switch under the glove box.

If belt,fuel,spark are all good you have a problem with your ICM. If it's original I would bet it needs to be changed.
 

adsm08

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Um, wouldn't good spark rule out the ICM?
 

tomw

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Well, the fuel pump, filter, lines and regulator could be fine... But it the computer got zapped, it might not be conducting to ground to spritz the intake valves. So, beyond timing, spark, fuel pressure, fuel injection pulses are also requisite.
Tests would require a VOM, possibly a noid light, or a finger on an injector while cranking to feel the injector do its thing.
tom
 

wildbill23c

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2.9 V6
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2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
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215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Waiting on a response back from the owner to see what he found. He decided he'd better go finish putting the transmission in his F250 and get it back home LOL.
 

wildbill23c

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Location
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Vehicle Year
1987
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Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Finally went over today and did some checking, the coil packs seem to be shot, at least from the testing I did I couldn't get any ohm readings at all. I just find it odd that both failed at the same time. We took the ignition module out and had it tested and it was good, the ignition switch is also good, getting fuel pressure at the schrader valve, only other possibility is a bad computer but if that was the case I'd be getting a good ohm reading on the coil packs regardless of the computer being bad.

Coil packs are supposed to be in tomorrow afternoon so we shall soon see if the truck fires up again. Pulled the timing cover off and the timing belt is good, and timing is still good, however if we get it running the timing belt and water pump are being changed right away, looks like a bit of seepage from the water pump, and now is a great time to change it all, not sure if or when the timing belt was replaced so its a definite replacement.

For some reason this makes me want another RBV LOL.
 

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