Dana 35 drain plug

CountryDriven · Jan 27, 2015

I'd like to see some pics of what y'all have done before I do mine. I attempted to suck my muddy diff fluid out but I believe I only got about 2/3 of it out...and a drain plug just sounds like a simpler process once installed. Where did you guy tap your plugs? What bolt/plug did you guys use? I really dont want to have to completely disassemble the entire pumpkin again...and yes, I will be installing a longer vent hose after this experience

Muddy diff fluid:

Captain Ledd · Jan 27, 2015

Some drill a hole and weld on a bung, probably the most professional approach. Others I have seen where they drilled into the back end of the lowest bolt hole, and used just a hair of sealant around the head of the bolt to keep it from leaking.

I tossed around the idea of drilling and taping the bottom of the housing and using a standard replacement oil pan plug with a rubber ring on it.

CountryDriven · Jan 27, 2015

Captain Ledd said:
I tossed around the idea of drilling and taping the bottom of the housing and using a standard replacement oil pan plug with a rubber ring on it.

This is probably what I'm going to end up doing. The area is pretty decently protected by the diff's ribs & the bottom of the axle assembly. Here's where I hope to drill into, I of course need to miss the gear or I'm screwed, think I'm gunna bite the bullet tomorrow:

scotts90ranger · Jan 27, 2015

When I had my diff out I drilled a hole into the bottom bolt hole so I just have to pull the bottom bolt and wait a long time... I've seen other people drill and tap for a pipe plug in the bottom of the pig which would work just fine, I'd do 3/8" pipe thread, or at least 1/4" pipe... just avoid where the ring gear is and you'll be fine.

Captain Ledd · Jan 27, 2015

You can see the back of the boss for that bottom bolt hole, just stay off to the opposite side of the ring gear and you should be quite safe.

4x4junkie · Jan 27, 2015

Thru the bottom bolt hole here also.

If you put it where you showed, try to get it as near under the lip of the beam as you can to give it more protection.

Keep in mind also though if you ever decide to add a skid plate to it later, there might make access to it tougher vs having it on the front somewhere.

CountryDriven · Jan 28, 2015

scotts90ranger said:
When I had my diff out I drilled a hole into the bottom bolt hole so I just have to pull the bottom bolt and wait a long time... I've seen other people drill and tap for a pipe plug in the bottom of the pig which would work just fine, I'd do 3/8" pipe thread, or at least 1/4" pipe... just avoid where the ring gear is and you'll be fine.

I'm definitely going to use a pipe plug, that's a great idea. I suppose I'll try to find one that has a 3/8" ratchet insert for optimal clearance. I'll use the 3/8" pipe thread as well... Thanks!

CountryDriven · Jan 28, 2015

4x4junkie said:
Thru the bottom bolt hole here also.

If you put it where you showed, try to get it as near under the lip of the beam as you can to give it more protection.

Keep in mind also though if you ever decide to add a skid plate to it later, there might make access to it tougher vs having it on the front somewhere.

True, I'll probably just add a hole in the skid if it comes to that...I'll definitely try to get it as close to the lip as possible.

CountryDriven · Feb 2, 2015

Yesterday I ordered this pipe plug from Oreilly's:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/0900261/N1446.oap?ck=Search_pipe+plug_N1446_1137912_1119&keyword=pipe+plug&pt=N1446&ppt=C0266

Specifications:
$1.69 Each
Dorman AutoGrade - Countersunk Hex Pipe Plug
Part Number: 090-026.1
Line: DOR

30 day limited warranty
UPC: 19495021896
Universal Product
Pilot Point Steel
Thread Size: 1/4"-18 NPT
Length: 1/2"
Head Size: 1/4"

I plan on purchasing this tap to following drilling the hole:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CDT0/95202.oap?year=1993&make=Ford&model=Ranger&vi=1137912

Specifications:
UPC: 81838952020
Carbon Steel
Size: 1/4-18 NPT

Tap drill bit size needs to be a 7/16" for this application. I don't think I'll worry too much about metal shavings because excess diff fluid should come pouring out along with them. Ill also probably flush it with some diff lube after tapping to be safe as-well.

Captain Ledd · Feb 3, 2015

put wheel bearing (or other thick) grease on the bit for the last part. Will help partially stem the immediate flow of oil and will make the metal shavings stick to the grease. Same for the tap.

CountryDriven · Feb 5, 2015

Captain Ledd said:
put wheel bearing (or other thick) grease on the bit for the last part. Will help partially stem the immediate flow of oil and will make the metal shavings stick to the grease. Same for the tap.

Will do, about to go out in the garage, pics will be up shortly after!

CountryDriven · Feb 5, 2015

Pics as promised:

Starting by using my punch to guide the drill bit:

Began drilling hole with 7/16 drill bit:

Put lube on the end of the drill bit and finished it out:

More fluid came out than expected (guess my pump really did suck

):

Began tapping and again finished with lube on the end to grab the majority of the metal shavings:

After letting excess fluid drain from diff the pipe plug screwed right on! I then topped the diff of with fluid and let it sit for 2 hours and no leaks!

BTW sorry my temporary go-phone camera really sucks...

Captain Ledd · Feb 6, 2015

Sweet!

Dana 35 drain plug

New Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Forum Staff Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals