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Short block suggestions?


ratdude747

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Question for those in the know:

I'm looking at putting a short block in my ranger sometime in the next year or so. My oil pressures are low and bouncy, and while going to a heavier oil will hopefully get me by for another year or so, I have my doubts. I had the engine out of the truck last fall and based on how much sludge was in the valve cover and oil pan, I suspect that the engine was previously neglected and is prematurely wearing in the bearings. My heads, other than needing some helicoil on the exhaust manifold threads (right now I use backing nuts :( ), seems to be OK so I think I could get away with just a short block.

So, my main question is who rebuilds a good short block?

Other questions:

Unless my circumstance changes (read: I get a house and can work from home instead of at inlaws), rebuilding it myself isn't in the cards due to time. This also means I might not have time to have the heads decked?

Also, would I be better off with a long block?

Finally, just as an FYI, I'm not looking to V8 swap. That's a can of worms I'd rather not open (read: money pit) and with a somewhat recently rebuilt transmission (two years ago) I'd rather not have to get a new tranny too.
 


RonD

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I would check with local Machine Shops first, see what they would charge for a rebuild, short block only.

3.0l Vulcan engine was used from 1986 to 2012 in Ford vehicles, there were chnages over the years, read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.shtml

So you could get a high miler cheap and have it rebuilt, car 3.0l cams had lower torque but higher horse power, but cams can be swapped
That's the only real difference, except for the head gaskets but you are redoing that part anyway.
So there are a hole lot of used 3.0l Vulcan engines out there

Buying on-line can be cheaper sometimes but..............warranty is long distance
So check with local shops first, they may be able to get you a short block and rebuild it for a reasonable price.
 

ratdude747

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2WD
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215/70R15
I would check with local Machine Shops first, see what they would charge for a rebuild, short block only.

3.0l Vulcan engine was used from 1986 to 2012 in Ford vehicles, there were chnages over the years, read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.shtml

So you could get a high miler cheap and have it rebuilt, car 3.0l cams had lower torque but higher horse power, but cams can be swapped
That's the only real difference, except for the head gaskets but you are redoing that part anyway.
So there are a hole lot of used 3.0l Vulcan engines out there

Buying on-line can be cheaper sometimes but..............warranty is long distance
So check with local shops first, they may be able to get you a short block and rebuild it for a reasonable price.
Yeah I read that rebuilding guide awhile back. I do know the Vulcan in my wife's 2003 taurus ran completely different... I had read that one of the head gaskets and ECU tuning are different but nothing about the cams.

From looking online a short block will run about $650 or so? Just getting prices and advice so I know about how much I'm going to need to save.

Honestly I probably have the money (or will in a few months, as another project ended up being a LOT cheaper than planned)... the main reason I'm waiting is that I don't want to piss off my inlaws which happen to be my only place where I feel OK doing engine work. That's where I pulled the motor last fall (gasket replacement). They don't like my truck because it's old, compact, and they think I put too much effort in it (due to former reliability issues). Also my father inlaw had bad experiences with a couple of Rangers in the past (a 1991 and 1996) and I think that may be part of it.

But my parents only have a driveway (the garage is for my dad's bicycle collection) and with much worse tool selection (my personal tools for the most part). I live in a bleeping apartment, so obviously that won't work. Also, since I work a regular job and neither being local, I have a time constraint. My parents are an hour away and my inlaws three hours away.

I kinda wish I had the money and motive to replace the motor last time. It was a JY motor slapped in by the PO and honestly I didn't care for it much. The nightmare of the rusted and snapped exhaust studs almost made me go there. It never did seal right either, which is another reason for me to swap it.

Not to come off as a sob story, but real post-college life is kicking my ass in this regard.
 
Last edited:

ratdude747

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Well the situation may be more serious. I changed the oil for a heavier weight (0W-20 to 5W-30) and the pressure got better at first, but then it got scary.

(Preface: I've done the gauge mod, providing pre-1986 like oil pressure sensing, aka switch to analog sender swap).

I was getting at times nearly to the "L" pressures at 1500RPM. Very erratic and bouncy. Only did it when loaded and fully warmed up.

Awhile back I did get some lifter tic but that cleared up since then.

I do occassionally hear some piston slap sounding noises at idle.

Is my engine a ticking time bomb? Is there any way to keep it going until Christmas (or perhaps thanksgiving)? I won't have time to drive out of town for awhile until then (yay busy work life and apartment living).
 

ratdude747

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215/70R15
May not be an issue. At the advice of a buddy I hooked my mechanical oil pressure gauge up... once warmed up for 20-30 minutes, with 5W-30 Synthetic oil, here's what I have:

-idle (900RPM, AC was on)- low 20's

-2000RPM- low 40's

According to the book at 2500RPM I should have 40-60... so I'm on the low end of OK I guess.

I'll replace the sending unit and report back.
 

ratdude747

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Ford Ranger
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2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
215/70R15
Replaced sending unit, readings are a lot better. No short block required.

The old sending unit must have been bad out of the box. Go figure.
 

ratdude747

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Location
Madison, IN
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
215/70R15
Update:

Had some lifter tic this morning... went away after a few minutes. May need to do some upper valvetrain work :(
 

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