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anyone try monroe load carrying rear shocks?


stackz

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monroe part #58608 or gabriel #43165

both shocks are meant for extra towing capacity. I tow a boat with my ranger as well as a trailer.

I'm going to go on my next paycheck and get a set of leaf springs from a 91 4x4 ranger at the u-pull as they have extra leafs in them but I'm also thinking of grabbing a set of these shocks as my originals are worn anyway.

its a 96 2.3 ranger. I've already swapped in the 8.8 limited slip from the same 91 donor truck and its definitely improved towing with the trailer but the ass end still sags.

I'm curious just how bouncy the backend will be with nothing out back is all?

I have a class 3 hitch on the frame and if you were wondering if the stock engine can take it...dont worry I'm doing all these suspension/towing upgrades while collecting the parts to get a 5.0 in the engine bay. basically, I'm wanting the towing capacity that my stock 2wd mountaineer used to have in a nice tiny packaged ranger.

here's the shocks I'm looking at:

 


rurouni20xx

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i looked at those to see about holding my axle in place on the road but opted for the traction bars. ive heard the valves in those break your riding springs so u get a springy feel in your rear end.
 

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I have those exact ones in my Red one.

They do help, I've put more weight in that bed than I ever really should have. Had about 8 people at a party once sitting it it to see how far it would sag, and the mud flaps still weren't touching the ground and plenty of room to the bump stops.

It'll be a little on the stiffer side empty, but it will wayyyy help with a load.

1997 2.3L 2wd, std cab, short bed.

Mind you this is dropping off, not picking up:

 
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COPPERHEAD85

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I have a set of those laying around somewhere...............what are they worth?
 

stackz

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It'll be a little on the stiffer side empty, but it will wayyyy help with a load.

exactly the answer I was wanting to hear. how does the truck drive on the highway at speed?? my only real concern with these and the stiffness is on the highways here in charleston.

they are in crappy condition haha. there's one particular bridge I drive over at around 70mph and the bridge turns to the right. the joints have sorta sunk in on the bridge and when I go over it at highway speed, the backside of the truck sorta "jumps" to the left lol. it can make your heart drop for a quick second in the right conditions. I'm wondering if these shocks will exacerbate that any? regardless, I'll probably pick them up anyway for the towing/hauling aspect.

oh yeah, how many leafs are in your factory rear springs out of curiosity??

I noticed in your sig as well that you're going to do a 4x4 conversion on the truck?? is there a link on how to do this??
 

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exactly the answer I was wanting to hear. how does the truck drive on the highway at speed?? my only real concern with these and the stiffness is on the highways here in charleston.

they are in crappy condition haha. there's one particular bridge I drive over at around 70mph and the bridge turns to the right. the joints have sorta sunk in on the bridge and when I go over it at highway speed, the backside of the truck sorta "jumps" to the left lol. it can make your heart drop for a quick second in the right conditions. I'm wondering if these shocks will exacerbate that any? regardless, I'll probably pick them up anyway for the towing/hauling aspect.
To be honest, I haven't had it much past 60-65 MPH in a long time. I'd keep 2 hands on the wheel over those bumps.

oh yeah, how many leafs are in your factory rear springs out of curiosity??
3. Two main leafs and the overload leaf.

I noticed in your sig as well that you're going to do a 4x4 conversion on the truck?? is there a link on how to do this??
There is only one person that did it with the crossmember swap that I know of. After much debate with myself I decided to stick a 4x4 frame of the same body type under mine. Much easier and should stay aligned better. But I guess it's all subject to change. I've only recently became employed again and need to save up money, again.
 

Ranger97XL

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I have those exact ones in my Red one.

They do help, I've put more weight in that bed than I ever really should have. Had about 8 people at a party once sitting it it to see how far it would sag, and the mud flaps still weren't touching the ground and plenty of room to the bump stops.

It'll be a little on the stiffer side empty, but it will wayyyy help with a load.

1997 2.3L 2wd, std cab, short bed.

Mind you this is dropping off, not picking up:


how did you convince uhaul to let you pull that? when i tried to get a trailer they said "the system" wouldn't let it go through because the ranger did not weigh enough
 

Captain Ledd

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how did you convince uhaul to let you pull that? when i tried to get a trailer they said "the system" wouldn't let it go through because the ranger did not weigh enough
I never mentioned the 2.3L bit. And insisted that essentially all Rangers had the same brakes (which for the most part, they do). They agreed to let us rent a dolly, but then couldn't find it LOL. So we settled on this. That other trailer had brakes so we figured it'd be good. It was only the next town over too, 45 mph roads. I had a good heavy duty hitch as well.

I guess I just made a convincing enough argument?
 

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the 4wd conversion is possible from what i can tell, at least from tib to ttb anyway. i own a 93 4wd ranger and a 92 2wd ranger, both are the solid axle type tib/ttb front end, it almost looks like a direct swap. basically you have the transmission changed with a 4wd one and a transfer, change the rear driveshaft add the front one. on the front end remove the radius arm rods/springs/shocks from the tib assembly, swap in the 4wd ttb assembly (front dif and arms plus hubs/spindles brakes) and attach them to the 2wd radius arm rods/springs/shocks. there may be a difference in the 4wd radius arm lengths not sure but thats really the only difference i see looking under both trucks. i could be completely wrong on this just saying when i crawl under both trucks thats the only difference i see between them.
 

Captain Ledd

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the 4wd conversion is possible from what i can tell, at least from tib to ttb anyway. i own a 93 4wd ranger and a 92 2wd ranger, both are the solid axle type tib/ttb front end, it almost looks like a direct swap. basically you have the transmission changed with a 4wd one and a transfer, change the rear driveshaft add the front one. on the front end remove the radius arm rods/springs/shocks from the tib assembly, swap in the 4wd ttb assembly (front dif and arms plus hubs/spindles brakes) and attach them to the 2wd radius arm rods/springs/shocks. there may be a difference in the 4wd radius arm lengths not sure but thats really the only difference i see looking under both trucks. i could be completely wrong on this just saying when i crawl under both trucks thats the only difference i see between them.
The crossmember (engine cradle bracket) is different. The 4wd pivot brackets will not bolt to it. You can either A) fab your very own drop brackets so the 4wd stuff will bolt up to the 2wd crossmember. B) Swap the crossmember out for a 4wd one. Or C) swap a 4x4 frame in place of the 4x2 frame.

Along with everything else you mentioned. :icon_welder:

Bronco II's are the only exception, for whatever reason, their 2wd stuff is the same as the 4wd stuff. It's a 4x4 crossmember and brackets, just the arms are different.
 

PlumCrazy

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monroe part #58608 or gabriel #43165

both shocks are meant for extra towing capacity. I tow a boat with my ranger as well as a trailer.

I'm going to go on my next paycheck and get a set of leaf springs from a 91 4x4 ranger at the u-pull as they have extra leafs in them but I'm also thinking of grabbing a set of these shocks as my originals are worn anyway.

its a 96 2.3 ranger. I've already swapped in the 8.8 limited slip from the same 91 donor truck and its definitely improved towing with the trailer but the ass end still sags.

I'm curious just how bouncy the backend will be with nothing out back is all?

I have a class 3 hitch on the frame and if you were wondering if the stock engine can take it...dont worry I'm doing all these suspension/towing upgrades while collecting the parts to get a 5.0 in the engine bay. basically, I'm wanting the towing capacity that my stock 2wd mountaineer used to have in a nice tiny packaged ranger.

here's the shocks I'm looking at:

Bad idea. The shock mounts arent meant to be load bearing brackets or support any weight. They are designed to mount shocks, which are there dampen the energy release of the springs and reduce bounce. Extra stress on the brackets will eventually result in something breaking whether it be the mount or the frame.

-PlumCrazy
 

Captain Ledd

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If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning.
Bad idea. The shock mounts arent meant to be load bearing brackets or support any weight. They are designed to mount shocks, which are there dampen the energy release of the springs and reduce bounce. Extra stress on the brackets will eventually result in something breaking whether it be the mount or the frame.

-PlumCrazy
*shrugs*

Mine are fine, got a good 45,000 miles on them, and I'm not exactly easy on it either as the picture proves LOL.

I really don't think those springs do much personally. It's a really uber strong gas shock so it wants to be fully extended all the time. I had to use a jack to get the little buggers in place. I tried grabbing the spring to help jam it in there and remembered in particular how easy it was to move it. Had me a bit concerned about my investment at first. :beer:

They did make the back end sit a bit higher, maybe an inch at best. There's a big difference in adding weight capacity vs. getting a heavy load to stop bouncing (which is really all it does). A regular shock with a big spring on it really doesn't do much to help control it and stop the bouncing. And help control it is what this shock will do.
 
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