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'85 TK5 extension housing/output shaft bushing


kishy

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Hey folks

As I'm building the "might as well" list of stuff to do while I swap my engine later this year, I remembered that my extension housing leaks trans fluid ($$ Redline MT-90...) rather profusely around the slip yoke, even after replacing the seal. It would appear that there is a bushing in the extension housing which is used to hold the shaft centered, and if that bushing is worn, the lateral play in the shaft causes oil to get out. I'm getting this from google, since the diagram here doesn't seem to show such a bushing. Maybe it is considered integral with the extension housing.

The truck is an 85 2.0 with the TK5. My transmission is part number E57A-7003-DA with build code 126939. Not sure if that helps any.

The bushing seems to be somewhat complicated to find. Google finds a handful of people looking for it, but not so many successful reports of where they found it. My local trans shops have turned up exactly nothing, and parts vendors such as RockAuto don't list it.

I did find these:
336066 "TK4 (4 Speed), TK5 (5 Speed), Bushing, Rear 1.510" ID (TK4 & TK5 Some) (RANGER-62)"
and
336066A "TK4 (4 Speed), TK5 (5 Speed), Bushing, Rear 1.580" ID (TK5 Some) (RANGER-62A)"

One of which is surely the bushing for my transmission, but is there some way to verify the I.D. measurement of the bushing without taking it apart first? If Ranger TK5s only ever came with one specific O.D. of shaft, then there should only be one I.D. of bushing...but it is implied that it's a mixed bag when it comes to the TK5.

Any thoughts are appreciated. I'd prefer not to take things apart just to get a measurement, it'd be a lot nicer to take them apart once, when it's time to replace it and I have the part in-hand.

Thanks
 
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adsm08

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It may be a production date thing, but I don't know for sure. If that is the case I would say the larger one is likely the later build.

Short of taking it apart and measuring I don't know of any way to be sure you are getting the right one.
 

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Can you get a measurement of the OD of the exposed yoke. Then determine the ID of bushing from the measurements you have? Should work out to be around .003-.005 larger than the yoke measurement.
 

kishy

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Edit: I misinterpreted the above, Transman304...it sounds like you're saying the bushing fits around the slip yoke itself. Below was written without realizing that completely.

Is the bushing fitted around the output shaft, or around the slip yoke? 1.5", I'm thinking slip yoke...but I may be mistaken...

If it's the slip yoke then I can quite easily get under there and throw a somewhat accurate caliper on it. But when we start talking about 0.07" difference between the larger and smaller bushings a "somewhat accurate" caliper is not so helpful.

If it's the output shaft then I won't have that measurement until almost summer which is when I'm projecting having my garage space available again.

I'll check the shop manual...I do have it. Not sure why I didn't think of that first.
 
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Transman304

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The bushing is stationary in the ext. housing and the yoke spins inside of it. If you measure the yoke the bushing inside diameter will be within.003-.005 of yoke diameter.
1.510 ID bushing will have a yoke that measures 1.505-1.507 or close .
1.580 ID bushing will have a yoke diameter of 1.575-1.577 or close.
With .070 difference in the two sizes you listed should be easy to find out the one needed.
 

kishy

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Got it, thank you. Will measure the yoke O.D. next chance I can get under the truck.

Checked the shop manual. Found it quite disappointing, as is often the case (the ones for my other cars outright specify the wrong special service tools for selected repairs).

In the Ranger's case, it specifies the special service tool (T72J-7697, not the -A version) to use to remove the bushing, but does not specify a part number for said bushing anywhere, the exploded diagrams don't show the part even existing. Great, thanks Ford. Tell me how to replace it, but not the part to order. No big deal, measuring is easy enough.

Will report back with my findings. First need to find my caliper.
 

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kishy

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Uh...something unusual.
I measured the slip yoke OD directly against the seal and got 1.375"/34.93mm, three times. I verified the caliper against a steel ruler as well. There's no way on earth it's out by 0.2".

The slip yoke fits the seal correctly (SKF 13759 is what I installed 2 years ago), so I'm kind of at a loss here. If it were the wrong yoke for the trans by that much of a difference, I would expect a gap around the yoke at the seal.

There's an 88 at a yard I'm going to today, if by chance (long shot) it has a TK5 I'll measure the yoke on that one too (update: it wasn't, it had an M5OD and the weight/balancer? on the yoke, so I couldn't measure it).

There's no chance my "TK5" might actually be one of the Mitsubishi ones, right? This is from when I did my clutch (hence no crossmember). Also note I put a TK4 shifter on it, so that's why that doesn't look right.

 
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kishy

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Any thoughts, anyone?
We can conclude that IF my trans is a TK5 (I'm pretty sure it is), and IF the only two bushing sizes used in a TK5 are 1.5" I.D. plus a little bit, then a 1.375" O.D. yoke is obviously not the right piece for my transmission. Similarly, replacing the bushing isn't going to fix oil loss through a (basically) 0.1" gap.

Looking for positive ID confirmation that it's a TK5 and ideally also confirmation that there is no little-known third bushing size for some TK5s. Then I suppose this repair goes on hold until I can find a TK5 truck to take a slip yoke from.
 
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kishy

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Bump.
This trans is going to die of oil starvation sooner or later if I can't fix this leak, because MT gear oil is way too much $ to just keep dumping in there blindly. My driveway looks like an oil tanker ran aground.

I do not know how to proceed with this issue because the OD of my slip yoke is so dramatically different from the dimensions of the bushings that are available.

A main concern about the 1.510" and 1.580" dimensions (available bushings) is that the seal fits the slip yoke correctly, as did the seal I took off it originally. So the seal matches the slip yoke, but the slip yoke is wiggly in the trans, and the slip yoke is 1.375" OD.

The plan is to take this vehicle off the road until next winter "soon", weather-dependent, but I need to put a full exhaust system on my other vehicle first so I'm still depending on old leaky for now.
 
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BlackBII

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Do you know what the outside diameter and length of the bushing you need? You could always just use a universal one like this:

LINK
 

kishy

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That's definitely a TK5. The FM trans has different ribbing and a different bottom pan.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13417

I am seeing the same bushings you are; 1.510" and 1.580"

Is there no bushing in there at all right now?
Thanks for the positive ID. I thought it had to be a TK (5) but the slip yoke OD made me second guess it...

I'll see if I can drop the driveshaft today to get eyes (and camera) in there. It's cold, but at least dry today. I don't have the luxury of my garage due to a car halfway through a heater core and windshield replacement.

If the bushing is missing entirely, I'm not aware of it.

Do you know what the outside diameter and length of the bushing you need? You could always just use a universal one like this:

LINK
I don't know the OD. Makes me wonder what reference documentation trans shops use for this stuff, since the Ford books don't say f-all about any of it.

I know a guy who (I did not previously know) owns a machine shop, so if I can get the dimensions, he thinks he may be able to make the part I need. But those dimensions are a real pain to get with the trans installed in a fully assembled and daily driven truck.
 

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Got under there, pulled the driveshaft. Took the opportunity to grease the (recently new) U-joints, which have those infuriating flush-mount grease fittings making them challenging to grease overhead.

Also observed slop in the parking brake cable adjustment, which was new a couple years ago also. Tried to turn the adjusting nut, broke the end off the cable. Super awesome.

Pulled the fill plug on the trans and checked with my finger. The level was a little low, not scary. Added some since I was there anyway. 90% of the oil loss onto the driveway is engine oil, but there's a definite leak from the back of the trans, and a spray line across the floor where it gets slung off the yoke.

Speaking of the yoke:
Re-verified the OD is 1.375" (1-3/8")
Checked for wiggly slop, realized I was mistaken, there is almost none. Maybe 1/32" of lateral movement at the end, which is probably nothing...yet I still have big oil loss out the rear seal, not helped by a new seal, so...





It's nearly impossible to see anything meaningful in behind the seal, but I tried:







 

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The very last picture seems to reveal the presence of a bushing at the right near the top. At least it appears there is another 'edge' inside, and it is not part of the seal.
You reported 1/32" of yoke wobble, which I think is not that bad as I imagine it in my head.
I do not know where you got your seal, but I sort of remember there being an additional rubber part, almost a cone, that extended out perhaps an inch or 2.5cm past the edge of the tailhousing. The rubber parts were pretty soft and flexible, but fit closely around the yoke. I think they were more dust protectors to keep road stuff from impacting the actual seal. They were cylindrical, and then tapered nearer their farthest point from the transmission. You might check with your local dealer to see if they have that style.
The rubber may re-direct any lube that seeps past the seal back ... until it fills the chamber. I dunno. I remember seeing that style on C4 transmissions, but have not looked at my truck in a while to be re-assured.
I think your bushing is within tolerance. Perhaps the seal you have is not fitting closely to the yoke.
Another thought was that you may have a plugged vent in the transmission. They all should have some sort of vent to allow for expansion due to temperature changes. If the vent was plugged, the internal pressure would increase some, and could/would force lube out the easiest exit spot, which would be the input or output shafts, I think, as the only other spot would be the shift lever mechanism up top. You could have an insect that set up shop in the vent, and slowed gas flow.
I am pretty sure I have the same transmission, and it is coated with 35 years of seepage. The speedo adapter gizmo(some sort of reduction gear assembly that shoves into the tailhousing, and then has the speedo cable shoved into it) has leaked a bit since it was new. I have not noticed any evidence of rear seal seepage and spray onto the underside, but haven't looked in a while. No noted evidence of droplets on the ground, though the thing looks as if it should. I was going to get out the pressure washer and give it a bath, but have a new clutch I bought along with flywheel, so figured I'd do it all at the same time, replacing the lube when I undertake that task. It seems the clutch pedal is engaging at the last of the movement, about an inch-inch and a half from full release, so I figure it is on the way out. I may just wait until warmer weather next spring.

tom

I searched the goog for images for E5TZ7052B and got one for the seal showing the extra rubber cover.
see:
http://fenix.com.pl/3732-uszczelniacz-polosi-2655-national-aerostar-bronco-ii-explorer-mustang-ranger-mark-vii-navajo-capri-cougar-mountaineer.html?search_query=naped&results=924

It seems to be a polish vendor, but the picture shows the cover I was trying to describe.
tom
 
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