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Bronco II overcool


Dietz615

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i got an 89 bronco II, and i am at wits end here, i've been batteling with this problem for many moons, and i don't think i can handle another wisconsin winter in it with complete coldness. just something about not being able to feel your fingers after short or long drives, i don't know, call me picky. it has an overcooling problem to an extreem. temp guage never even gets above the tic into the normal zone, and in -10 degree weather, its quite cold in the cab. its not the temp sender like i've seen many say to others. after a good 50 mile drive, you can open the hood and grab the radiator hoses or heater hoses and feel nothing but luke warm. actually the only hose that gets hot to the touch is the lower hose. too hot for me go keep an ungloved hand on. i'm on the 3rd or 4th thermostat and when replaceing them, they all seemed to test alright. the one i have now will get the temp up to normal on the guage, bout half to 3/4 through the normal line, open, the temp drops to cold, and stays there till i completely cool the truck off again. the engine block seems to get warm, but i'm reluctant to touch more than the intake. i've replaced the water pump a year or two ago and some have told me i might have a wrong pump for non ac. but mine is v belt drive and there was no other choice, plus the old pump had the same problem as well. truck had the problem for about 10 years now. and thats a lot of cold days let me tell ya. even talked it over with the ford dealership and they have no idea whats going on, but are willing to take a look with an open estamate....:annoyed: help please.
 


COPPERHEAD85

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Where are you getting your T-Stats from?
It sounds like its sticking open.
I recommend getting a manual gauge also to tell you exactly what temp your engine is running.
 

bobbywalter

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sounds like a classic plugged heater core to me.


pretty easy to change on a b2
they can freeze a lil and not split but swell enough to restrict airflow and coolant flow as well making it a lose lose for heat. minor head gasket leak can plug em off with soot as well pretty quick. that usually come with a different set of issues you dont seem to have though.


with a big pump with my v8's high rpm shifts were enough to distort the core and cause low heat output.
 

Dietz615

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tstats i've been getting so far are stant from advance auto sense i used to work there. there always closed when i pulled them out (save for the very first one i did) and open when heated up. thats why i said they seem to be working, but can't stick my head down the radiator while the engines running to know for sure:icon_thumby:. i have also replaced the head gasket about 3 years ago, and the heater core about 4 years ago. neither one changed the problem one bit. hoses going into the heater core are luke warm, hose out is cold, but warm enough to be able to tell fluid is moving through it. but like i said, had same problem even when i first installed the frest heater core. and just to put it out there, it runs almost as cold in summer too, can be 90 degrees out and still can't get the heater to blow much warmer then the surrounding air, but i can get the temp guage about an eighth of the way into the normal zone. its got the symptoms of a stuck t stat, but every one i take out look good. i explaned this to ford (i actually went to buy a true motocraft t stat just in case) and they talked me out of it. almost refused to sell me it saying there is no way the t stat is the problem after i've gone through so many. that was right before they told me they'd look at it and wouldn't give me a price on how much it'd cost. i'm a garage auto mechanic and a professional forklift mechanic. i know my way around an engine and hate going to dealerships because they treat you like your joe nobody and you know nothing about cars... sorry, had to rant a bit.
 

Dietz615

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i have to edit, the heater blows much warmer in summer, enough that you can tell the heater core doesn't seem to be plugged. the warmth is right in line with the engine temp on the guage and goes up with it accordingly. i actually ran it the first half of summer with the cardboard in front of the radiator without realizing it. thats how cold it runs.
 

COPPERHEAD85

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I'm kinda having the same problem as you with my 81 F-100.
It ran perfect this summer,you could watch the temp gauge and see the t-stat open and close till it ran right at 195 in 90 degree heat sitting in line at a drive-thou.
Its been pretty cold this last week here and my heat is pretty wimpy.Temp comes up to 195 and drops to 160 and slowly go back up to 190 (sometimes).I have half the Rad. covered,that helped a little.
I'm thinking I may have the same problem as you in a way but how can the motor run at 160 damn near all the way to work without the stat closing and it warming back up?I'm going to the dealership this weekend and get a Ford stat and back flush my core to see what comes out.
 

igiveup

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Hello

What about your motor fan sticking on. The clutch in it could be shot. I had the same problem with my 85 so I went to an electric style cooling fan. Just an idea.

igiveup
 

bobbywalter

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Hello

What about your motor fan sticking on. The clutch in it could be shot. I had the same problem with my 85 so I went to an electric style cooling fan. Just an idea.

igiveup
t stat should mitigate that on this system



sounds blend door related in this case, but i still thing theres shit in the system that quickly plugged the fresh core.


i assume this problem is still there with the radiator completely covered with cardboard or tarp or something as well? you are properly installing the t stat?
 

04sd

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i'm on the 3rd or 4th thermostat and when replaceing them, they all seemed to test alright. the one i have now will get the temp up to normal on the guage, bout half to 3/4 through the normal line, open, the temp drops to cold, and stays there till i completely cool the truck off again.
Time to find another supplier for a good t-stat. Once the engine is warmed up it should stay warmed up.
 

COPPERHEAD85

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Sorry to hijack.........

Blend door is working properly,half the rad is covered.
Heat temp at the vent is 85 degrees.
I am running a 16" flex fan,would it make that big of difference?
351W punched 60 over with flattops and worked E7 heads.Stock rad from the 81 with a 302.Stant 190 stat.


And yes BW........................it has a built AOD..............lol!
 

Jay'94

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HMMM interesting!
I had a cooling problem all summer. Finally bought a new radiator for the same year truck with an automatic instead of a manual trans, it's twice as thick and holds almost twice the coolant. Running on a 3" body lift, with HD mechanical clutch fan. Flushed the system several times. Even made a plate a couple years ago for the bottom of the fan shroud due to the gap from the body lift!
Now this winter I find it runs at about 174-176 degrees, over 40 miles. I got heat, but wondering what it's going to be like in this teen degree weather, find out tomorrow after I put the new driveshaft in.
I might end up with the cardboard thermostat myself. actually been thinking a piece of canvass and some snaps like a big rig!
 

bobbywalter

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its weird, i have a humunga-sauras rex radiator, and cold running diesel, and more holes then ever in the rotted hulk of ranger i wander round in..... and my heater is actually better then ever with all blown seals on the blend, and duct systems....


and i dont know why.
 

Dietz615

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well i know this has died down a but, but i seem to have found the problem. it was a mix of 3 different ones it seems, but the cure ended up being to have the heater core and block chemical flushed. block was crudded up so it was restricting flow, heater core was plugged tight, and the t-stat is opening early. not sticking open, but opening early. so it still runs cool now, i blame it on the stant t stats i've been putting in for opening early. shop said it was blowing 120 degrees from the vents, but i'll assume that was while it was in the shop, cause bombing down the highway i still don't get more than lukewarm. but its very liveable at the moment. cardboard over the grill will probably help a bit too.
 

rusty70f100

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You know, in these motors I've never had any luck with anything but a Ford OEM thermostat. All the aftermarket ones seem to make the engine run cold. The Ford one will be stamped "Made in Germany." The package will say it's made in Mexico though, so who knows. :D
 

Earl43P

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Fan clutch was mentioned and you didn't comment on that.

I know a guy at work who takes his fan completely OFF of his (2.3) in the winter. Doesn't even come CLOSE to getting hot except a small temp rise at a light. A couple revs and once in a while he has to run the heater (after a highway run, then stopping) to keep temp from rising too much. Moving down the road, never a problem.

He's an aircraft mechanic, maintains his shit and raves that his mpg goes up a bit in the winter and has hot heat. That's in NC with a known good fan clutch. That's what I'd do. Take the fan off and keep it in the truck with the wrench to spin it back on. Or get a new fan clutch and try that. Of course cardboard is free, but sucking extra gas with a stuck on fan isn't. If your engine is running that cold, mpg has to be suffering too.
 

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