New 2011 - Fair Price?

I've been bouncing from Ranger to F150 and back to Ranger for the last couple of weeks. I've ultimately decided to go with a Ranger because a comparable F150 with similar options is going to run between 7-8k more. With that being said, what is a fair price to pay for a Ranger at this time. We know that this is the last year for them and the demand is way down compared to 10 years ago. The particular truck I'm looking at is a silver metallic XLT 4dr. Supercab 4.0 4x4 automatic with 4.10LS gears, skid plates, chrome package, and 16" Y-spoke wheels with 255/70R16 tires. The MSRP is $28,050 and according to Edmunds, the invoice should be roughly $26,300. There are $4000 in available rebates and I'll get an additional $500 off for being a recent college graduate. If I decide to trade in my '01 Explorer, I'll get an additional $1000 trade assist, but we'll leave that out of the equation since no trade value has been determined yet. When I was dealing on a Ranger at a different lot during truck month, I was offered $4000. I anticipate somewhere between $3500-$4000.

So, can these trucks be bought below invoice? At invoice? $500 over invoice? What's the trend right now in your area?

i just paid 23 for mine with pretty much the exact same specs, except i got the sport with every option you can get. i would look into a car buying service, they send out a feeler to all the dealers in your area and the price is guaranteed, i found mine through USAA where i have my insurance and a bank account

give me the options and what package you want, ill run the price together and give you a just above dealer cost you can go in there with.


edit didnt read. LOL hang on.

ok. I am in sales, have been for a few years. let me help you.

no dealer will sell below invoice. they will keep the truck and wait for full price. no dealer will sell for cost. same idea.

Good luck with 500 over, it costs more then that to pay everyone to get the truck ready.

being a sales man, ill give you some advise. if you pay anything less then 1000 over invoice, dont expect special treatment. I work on comission, and have told a customer no to 1000 over cost. why? because its a waste of my time. I make roughly 18% of the gross, meaning $180 for a delivery, licencing, insurance, making sure its ready, paperwork, gasing the truck, and dealing with your "concerns" about tint or accessories you want. after 35% taxes and health insurance costs, i get about $125 for that entire deal. Ive made less, for nightmare deals, and i dont call those customers back to follow up. I honestly hope i dont have to deal with them again.

Its a massive insult to lowball a dealership and a salesman. we dont work for free, and most get nothing for hourly. We have familys to support, and lives to pay for. Mc-donalds has profit in their means, do you haggle a big mac? no.

your invoice price i low by about $600. cost on that truck is roughly $26,930. I understand customer service, and if you respect me i give you my best. but when i have someone call me and lowball, or not even drive and lowball the price, i wont move one cent. if you drive it, like it but can afford more the a 300 a month, ill work with you to help.

alexpmcmurphy said:

i just paid 23 for mine with pretty much the exact same specs, except i got the sport with every option you can get. i would look into a car buying service, they send out a feeler to all the dealers in your area and the price is guaranteed, i found mine through USAA where i have my insurance and a bank account

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Was that 23k before or after rebates? If it was before, you got an incredible deal!

that was after rebates, tax, title, and fees included

that same truck at my local ford stealership is 32K with out leather and no rebates (sign says all rebates to dealer)

I've eliminated the F150 from the equation. After crunching the numbers, I wouldn't have much left over for accessories along the way with the F150.

I spoke to my sales representative about the Ranger and this is the offer I was presented with.

MSRP:----------------------------------------------$28,050
Selling Price:----------------------------------------$26,061
Total Rebates including college grad and trade assist: ($6000) (They have an additional $500 rebate that I didn't know about.)
Trade Offer:----------------------------------------($4000)
Price After Rebates:--------------------------------$16,061
Taxes, Tags, and Fees:------------------------------$1,053
Total Financed:------------------------------------$17,114

At the interest rate I qualify for, that puts me at roughly $268 a month for 72 months or $315 for 60 months, which is awesome.

Now comes the hard part... actually making the decision. Do I want to commit to a payment for 5-6 years or do I want to keep my '01 Explorer with 150k that is paid off?The kicker is that I've dropped a lot of coin on the Explorer over the last year.... gears, exhaust, wheels, tires, synthetic fluids, tune-up, etc. It is in top shape. I think one of the reasons I'm a little reluctant to get the Ranger is because the aftermarket is similar to that of the Explorer. We have limited options when it comes to lifts, exhaust, etc. Although, the Rangers do seem to have a slight edge over the Explorers. This post is more or less rhetorical, but if you have some enlightening information, please share. I just needed to put my thoughts down on "paper", lol.

The dealership just called and said they found an error in the selling price. The new selling price is $26,300 as opposed to the earlier quoted $26,061. They apologized and offered a spray in bedliner to make up for it! This place rocks. Reasons like this is why my family has bought so many vehicles from them. This will be my third if I go through with the purchase.

glad your happy with your local Ford dealer. I have to go to Kalamazoo (50 miles) to find a decent ones, all out locals are stealerships. We had a good chevy dealer but he lost his franchise...... but kept his used car dealership and they do all my service to my Lincoln and Blazer.

X6StringerX said:

Now comes the hard part... actually making the decision. Do I want to commit to a payment for 5-6 years or do I want to keep my '01 Explorer with 150k that is paid off?The kicker is that I've dropped a lot of coin on the Explorer over the last year.... gears, exhaust, wheels, tires, synthetic fluids, tune-up, etc. It is in top shape. I think one of the reasons I'm a little reluctant to get the Ranger is because the aftermarket is similar to that of the Explorer. We have limited options when it comes to lifts, exhaust, etc. Although, the Rangers do seem to have a slight edge over the Explorers. This post is more or less rhetorical, but if you have some enlightening information, please share. I just needed to put my thoughts down on "paper", lol.

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So why do you want to dump the Explorer for a Ranger?

Personally I would rather let someone else the initial hit and buy a couple years old. When I got my F-150, I couldn't have touched a comparable brand new Ranger for what I paid.

You will get a lot more money out of the Explorer if you sell it yourself too, and you could switch things like tires if you wanted. IMO usually OEM tires are junk.

85_Ranger4x4 said:

So why do you want to dump the Explorer for a Ranger?

Personally I would rather let someone else the initial hit and buy a couple years old. When I got my F-150, I couldn't have touched a comparable brand new Ranger for what I paid.

You will get a lot more money out of the Explorer if you sell it yourself too, and you could switch things like tires if you wanted. IMO usually OEM tires are junk.

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That argument holds true 99% of the time. However, in this case, I would be far better off buying the 2011 Ranger brand new. I've priced '09 and '10 Rangers in my area and they're all in the 20-24k range depending on mileage. The 2011 I'm looking at is $20,300 after rebates, but before my trade. It's $16,300 with my trade. $4,000 for a 2001 Explorer with 150,000 miles and it's share of cosmetic defects is a pretty generous trade offer in my eyes. I might be able to squeeze $4,500 out of an individual, but I'd have to work to get it. Even if I did, I would be buying a used Ranger for somewhere between $15,500 and $19,500 after I put down $4,500. If I decided to go ahead and buy the new Ranger after I sold the Explorer, I would lose out on $1000 trade assist rebate. Either way, I'd be worse off than if I had just traded in the Explorer.

X6StringerX said:

That argument holds true 99% of the time. However, in this case, I would be far better off buying the 2011 Ranger brand new. I've priced '09 and '10 Rangers in my area and they're all in the 20-24k range depending on mileage. The 2011 I'm looking at is $20,300 after rebates, but before my trade. It's $16,300 with my trade. $4,000 for a 2001 Explorer with 150,000 miles and it's share of cosmetic defects is a pretty generous trade offer in my eyes. I might be able to squeeze $4,500 out of an individual, but I'd have to work to get it. Even if I did, I would be buying a used Ranger for somewhere between $15,500 and $19,500 after I put down $4,500. If I decided to go ahead and buy the new Ranger after I sold the Explorer, I would lose out on $1000 trade assist rebate. Either way, I'd be worse off than if I had just traded in the Explorer.

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It has been 6 years ago, but I paid $18k for a nice 2002 XLT F-150 4x4 with the 5.4 with 25k miles in 2005... the media keeps blabbing the used truck market has since tanked.

If used vehicles were affordable in this area, then I would look at my options again. Sadly, one year old vehicles are selling for close to what they did new and two year old vehicles aren't much less. My wife and I bought a used 2011 Focus SES back in June with 18k miles on it and we didn't pay much less for it than my parents did for their brand new 2011 SE a couple of months prior. Of course, our SES has heated leather, the moon and tune package, factory 17s, etc., but it was still used. With that being said, it's what we really wanted and new 2011s were few and far between. We almost bought a 2012, but I hate to buy a first production year.

X6StringerX said:

We almost bought a 2012, but I hate to buy a first production year.

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No guts no glory.

the depreciation only matters when you trade every few years...... if you buy it new and drive it till its ready to retire then the depreciation doesn't matter.