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Did I just put the flexplate on backwards?!?


Dweano

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I had to take it off yesterday while I was putting in a new tranny to change my oil pan gasket (which I still couldn't do) and I think I put it on backwards...somehow.

The starter doesn't look like it is engaging and I can't turn the crank when I put the inspection cover back on.

The weight is toward the engine currently...its backwards ain't it :bawling:

Note: I took out a 96 expo tranny and put in a 97. No reason that shoulldn't work is there??



 


alwaysFlOoReD

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That's correct. If you tried the other way the weight would get in the way.
 

RonD

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Yes, it is on the right way.

Just as a heads up, you put the torque converter on the transmission first, right?
And then pushed in on it while turning it until you heard 3 "clicks" and felt the converter slide in more, right?
 

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Dweano, it is all but physically impossible to put the flex plate on backwards. It is stepped, with a deeper dish in the center, so that is reaches the engine. If you tried to put the flex plate on backwards you would find the bolts didn't reach.

So unless you tried it, decided the bolts you took out had become unsuitable, and then ran out to get longer ones, you'd have a very hard time of it.
 

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Yes, it is on the right way.

Just as a heads up, you put the torque converter on the transmission first, right?
And then pushed in on it while turning it until you heard 3 "clicks" and felt the converter slide in more, right?
This has happened to everyone at least once. My fil did this and had to buy a new converter, but at least the pump was still good.
 

Dweano

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I did put the TC in first and it slid into place (as far as they go I believe...the TC bolts end in about the same plane as the front of the tranny casing, which is how far they go out on the TC/Tranny I took out)
...but something doesn't seem right here. Why isn't my starter hitting the flexplate??? And why can I turn the crank without the inspection plate on and then when I put it on it seems like something is binding?

Are y'all saying that my torque converter isn't in far enough???

I haven't started the engine or anything so I probably wouldn't have damaged anything would I have?

PS...thank you for the quick response! Love this forum

edit: say the torque converter jiggled loose a bit in the install (it was...quite the install) and I tightened the bolts up...would I have crushed something? A seal or something. The one side was snug...then there was a half inch ish gap on the other side that I sucked in with bolts...I thought it was just the dowel lining up
 
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orfordguy@yahoo.com

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yea id say you didn't seat the TC all the way.. shoulda been 1"-1 1/2" into the tranny bell.. if you had to suck it in then it got jammed.. now you gaotta pull it back out and check it all.. been there done that broke the pump.. had to replace it.. that sucked.. hope you didn't hurt much but ive broke a pump just by tightening the bolts all the way...
 
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Dweano

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Dangit! How will I tell if I broke the pump?

The TC was/is about an inch into the bell...the bolts for the torque converter are about inline with the bell. And the bolts are about an inch long...if that makes sense?
 
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orfordguy@yahoo.com

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sometimes the tranny will leak, either around the pump seal or input seal..
some times the convertor will drop in and flop around,, the last and worse answer is you wont till you put the TQ in and reinstall everthing then fire and drive.. itll pop bang grind, and not really go anywhere.. it may lurch some but is it does itll destroy the trans in short order..
 

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take the convertor out and shake it.. if it rattles or bangs its broken replace it..
put the trans in neutral and turn the input shaft by hand and see if it binds up... thatll get you close.. the input will be stiff to move but shouldn't actually stop or jam.
 

Dweano

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Shouldn't the torque converter have slid fully into place when i installed the nuts on the torque converter bolts? I rotated the crank a full revolution to get to all the nuts. Which should have rotated the converter a full rev too
 

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You are probably OK, as said you don't know until you put it into gear and it moves :)
Damage is done to the front(main) pump, torque converter has a slot that powers that pump, and if it wasn't lined up when you tightened up the bellhousing to block you push the torque convert into the pump and break it, so no "go juice" is pumped when engine starts.

Most DIYers do this on their first automatic, I did, lol.
Unless you have someone to give you the heads up.

There are 2 or 3 slots that have to line up between torque converter and transmission, so when you put the torque converter on the input shaft and slide it in you then need to rotate it and you will feel it slide in a bit more and then a bit more, and the clicks.
If torque converter slides out a bit when wiggling it into place it usually doesn't turn so will slide back in lined up.

If you have to force bellhousing flush with the block using the bolts then there could be a problem.
Usually torque converter will move back a bit and forward a bit after bellhousing bolts are tight, so there would be some play in it before tighting the flexplate nuts, if that was there then you are fine.

And there is no way to tell if pump was damaged by just looking, so finish the job and start it up
 

Dweano

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That post makes me happy! Haha. I hope I didn't wreck anything. But it still seems like something is not quite right...why can't I turn my crankshaft after my inspection plate is put on???
 

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Yes, that part is troublesome, not sure why that would be.
And you mentioned an issue with starter motor as well?

Your shop doesn't have 2 or 3 flex plates lying about, does it?

Not sure if there was a spacer on the flex plate?
 

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So the engine turns over without the inspection plate but won't turn over with?
 

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