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1989-1994 Mechanical Speedo & Odo Teardown


zekew64

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Carbondale, IL
Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.3L I4, rebuilt from a '91
Transmission
Manual
Hey all.

As nobody has posted about the 89-94 mechanical speedos, I thought I would show some pictures.

The gauge itself is from an 89 BII; as I have a 92 Ranger with the same exact speedo and odo, I do not believe there is any difference between the two gauges.

The reason why I'm posting this is because nobody, and I do mean nobody, has done a teardown/swap of the 3rd Gen trucks -- the closest thing I have seen is a video on YouTube of a guy who swapped out a non-tach cluster for a cluster with a tach. His truck was a 1992 F-150, so I'm thinking that any non-tach cluster could be swapped out for a cluster with tach, as long as the setup and construction is the same.

I plan on doing this swap myself, and will let you all know how it goes.

On to the pics!
 


zekew64

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Location
Carbondale, IL
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1992
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Ford
Engine Size
2.3L I4, rebuilt from a '91
Transmission
Manual
tmp_9320-IMG_20160613_035007-1946053602.jpg

This is of the odometer completely separated.

Bad news is, because the housing is metal and not plastic, removal of the odo may not be possible to reset it

The rest of the pics are the individual pieces of the speedo. I will be doing a How-To on how to tear down and check the individual components, so stay tuned.
 

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zekew64

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Messages
207
Reaction score
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Location
Carbondale, IL
Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.3L I4, rebuilt from a '91
Transmission
Manual
UPDATE

I swapped in the 89 BII cluster -- amazingly, everything works (save for a couple of the illumination bulbs that I think are on the way out, and my Hi-Beam indicator, which I think the bulb is burned out.

As for the odo/speedo:

This teardown follows most instructions for getting the gauge cluster out of the dash (removal of the various dash trim panels and whatnot). Once that is done, remove the 4 Torx screws that hold the gauge cluster to the dash, remove the two connectors (press 'IN' or squeeze the connector tabs together to remove), and remove the speedo cable (pince the flat portion of the connector; it should slide off of the speedo rear housing).

You've got the gauge cluster out -- congrats.

Next, follow the same removal instructions for gauge removal, going from outside-in (they should just pop out; set them aside).

Next, hold your speedo in your hands -- hard to believe this gauge tells you how fast you go down the road! Anyways, on to teardown...

First thing you have to do is remove the needle -- use the Fork Method, and remove the needle. (There is no calibration needed for this generation speedo -- that only refers to ones that use an electrical signal from the vehicle speed sensor assembly on 95+ Rangers.)

Next, remove the two small Phillips screws to remove the face. Take off the bump stop for the needle as well.

Once apart, take care and separate the green plastic piece (has the holes for the trip/odo readout) and the clear plastic piece. Set these aside.

Remove the two bolts that hold the assembly together, and gently pull it apart. On the rear part of the housing, you'll see two green plastic gear-and-worm pieces (see photo above). These are what drive the odometer (bottom piece) and tripometer (top piece). Pull these from the assembly and set them aside.

Next, remove the two bolts that hold the tripometer in place; set aside.

Now comes the fun part...the odometer.

IF YOU WISH TO ADJUST YOUR MILEAGE, GO ON TO THE NEXT STEP.
 

zekew64

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207
Reaction score
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Location
Carbondale, IL
Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.3L I4, rebuilt from a '91
Transmission
Manual
For the odometer, you should have your number roll and your gear roll (top and bottom).

NOTE: BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE ODOMETER ASSEMBLY. THERE IS A EXTEREMELY THIN, COPPER CLOCK SPRING ABOVE IT. IF DAMAGED, THIS WILL DESTROY YOUR SPEEDOMETER, AND IT WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY, AS THIS SPRING CONTROLS THE NEEDLE GOING BACK TO 0 MPH WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP OR AT REST.

On one side there should be a white gear, attached to a white dial (tenths of a mile). It looks like this:
 

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zekew64

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2011
Messages
207
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Location
Carbondale, IL
Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.3L I4, rebuilt from a '91
Transmission
Manual
The brass bushing needs to be pushed to the other side to allow you to spin the numbers for the odo.

Using a flathead screwdriver, pry under the space where the white pinion gear is. The brass bushing should start to slide out -- DO NOT REMOVE THIS BUSHING. I did, and had a hell of a time trying to put the odo back in it's place.

Next, slide the black numbers away from the white tenths cylinder and pinion gear -- you should be able to roll the numbers you want for your mileage. Next, slide them together until they click into place, and then push the bushing back in. If pushed too far, the odo won't be able to move; too loose, the other numbers won't roll when they need to. Using a number like 594, make sure you have the proper pressure by rolling only the tenths. Once you get to 600, the first three numbers should all move. Afterward, you'll have an idea of what the pressure on the roll by the bushing should be when you finalize the reading.

Once you have a proper reading, lock everything down using a needle punch to reset the brass bushing -- congrats! You just adjusted your odometer for the proper mileage!

Install the odo by reattaching, with screws, the tripometer and rear housing. Also remember to mesh the green worm gear combo pieces in their proper place before tightening.

Next, reattach the green readout plastic piece and clear illumination piece by placing them on the face; reattach the face with the two small Phillips screws. Put the needle back on, and the needle bump stop. Replace your gauges, and you re done.

Note: if you have any burned out light bulbs, now is the time to replace them, or upgrade to LEDs.

Reassemble and reattach the cluster to the dash, including reattachment of the electrical connectors, and speedo cable.

Before replacing the dash fascia, another fix for a poorly-designed Ford fascia attachment.

What you'll need:

Various round files
7 T-style nuts from Lowe's
7 Ford black push fasteners from Lowe's (part no. 1593, located in Hardware)

What to do:

Because the old Ford OEM attachment leaves a lot to be desired, especiay with broken plastic attachment points when you take your dash apart, a solution is needed.

First, note on the fascia where the mounting holes are by looking at where the old fasteners attached to the dash. Next, take a T-nut (5/8"), and using it as a guide, carefully round out each attachment hole to accept these T-nuts.

Using a glue of some kind, run a small bead around the flange of the nut, and a small bead around the mounting hole. Push the T-nut in securely; let it set. Do the sane for the other six holes.

Next, using the push connectors, glue them on the mounting points for the fascia; some trimming will be necessary to not cause fitment issues later. Once these have also set, wait a full 24 hours before attaching the fascia, as you do not want to break off any push connectors at this juncture.
Reattach the fascia, and you're done! Drink a beer or two to celebrate!
 
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