BII with all of the problems - Any ideas?

Hey Ranger Station!

So I've got this '86 Bronco II. I bought it a little over a year ago as parts, as it wasn't running. Once I got it running, it ran great for about 2 months. No issues starting, running, or even getting up to speed.

However, all of a sudden, it started having starting issues, where I would have to crank it over 2-3 times to get it to start. When it would start, once I put it reverse, it would stall, and when it was in drive, if I put it in park, it would stall.

After it was running for a while, it would shift into reverse and NOT stall, but it would stall into park 75% of the time.

All of a sudden, I blew a heater core hose, so I replace it. About a day later, the other heater core hose blew, and I replace this as well, and there are no more visible leaks.

However, the transmission shifts harder than ever, it stalls out immediately when started unless you manually rev the engine, and almost won't idle at all when you first start it.

When driving, it won't go over 45 miles an hour, when it was easily pushing 65-70 before. When you try to push it past 45mph, starts sputtering and feels like "limp" mode.

I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator, PCV Valve, Fuses, Battery, Changed Transmission Fluid, Coolant Temperature Sensor and Sending Unit, & Radiator Hoses.

1) Difficulty Starting
2) Shifts Hard
3) Can't go over 45.
4) Stalls when Shifting into Park or Reverse
5) Rough Idle

While the ideal solution is to solve this as inexpensively as possible, these are near identical issues that I have in my '89 Ranger in my driveway that no longer starts at all.

Is it salvageable? Is my worst case option of swapping in a 4.0 the only option? Any hope on saving the 2.9L and any ideas as to what it may be? Hopefully something small?

The 86 Ranger I had, has no CEL [check engine light], and I'll bet your b2 doesn't have a CEL either. But you can still get the codes from the computer. Check up at the top of any page for the "tech articles" and look up how to check your computer for codes. Come back and post them here and we'll try to help.

alwaysFlOoReD said:

The 86 Ranger I had, has no CEL [check engine light], and I'll bet your b2 doesn't have a CEL either. But you can still get the codes from the computer. Check up at the top of any page for the "tech articles" and look up how to check your computer for codes. Come back and post them here and we'll try to help.

Click to expand...

I've looked through all of the articles, but I've been unable to find the one describing how to check the codes, and I'm having a hard time locating anything through Google as well.

Any chance that you have a link to the specific article or thread?

Purchased a code reader for $30 at AutoZone.

It threw at least 2 codes:

34 o - EGR Control Circuit Fault?
32 c - EGR Pressure Feedback Fault?


I missed the Wide Open Throttle Test and will retest with that.



The Ranger on the other hand, tested 5 codes excluding the Wide Open Throttle Test.

I think I read somewhere before someone with similar issue had a Crack in the EGT tube hidden by insulation.

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http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114840


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Some updates:

Replaced EGR Valve (it was completely clogged up).

Replaced Fuel Filter (Completed black. Fuel that was in filter was completely black as well, could not see through it at all).

While it is not stalling at start, it still bogs down and wants to stall.

The radiator began from what appears to be between the plastic sides and the actual radiator itself. I can't pin-point the leak specifically. It's not a significant amount, but it is leaking.

Took it for a short drive (20 miles) and upon getting home, the radiator was still super cold.

I opened the radiator cap carefully to attempt to relieve pressure, and coolant finally flowed into the radiator, and the radiator was no longer cool to the touch. This is very concerning, as I believe the BII was overheating.

However, the truck is able to go to 65+ now, so I believe the slowness is 2 fold. I believe there was a fuel delivery issue caused by the clogged fuel filter, and the current issue being:

Loud Knocking from what sounds like the transfer case slipping at around 45mph in Drive. This is resolved by shifting into overdrive, and Overdrive will slowly accelerate to 65. If you go to under 45 in Overdrive, this slipping happens again unless you're under 30 miles per hour.

More issues I need to figure out how to resolve:

Floating Steering
I was passed by an 18 wheeler last night, and the BII began sliding off course. The amount I need to turn the wheel to correct for bumps and/or potholes is close to what it would be to take a corner in most cars, there's about 45 degrees of play in the B2 wheel. (20+ degrees in each direction) before the BII starts to respond with steering.

Transmission
The entire truck bucks when you shift gears. Not a tiny buck. Every physically moves and feels like you're in a lowrider with hydraulics, or like the truck is trying to eject you. It also slips in drive at 45mph and cannot accelerate over 45 without shifting to Overdrive. Overdrive slips between 35 and 45 mph.

Radiator
Has a leak on both sides of radiator. These leaks are (I believe) originating between the black plastic siding and the radiator fins. I cannot pinpoint the exact source of the leak, however it is not originating from any hoses.

The radiator was still cold after a 20-25 miles trip. It did not heat up until I opened the radiator cap after the trip, and coolant finally flowed through it. I believe this is caused by a vacuum leak? Could it be caused by anything else? Bad water pump?

Wiring
Cigarette/Accessory Port does not work. When you plug something into it, it flashes on, and then instantly turns off.

I tried installing a new radio/head unit, and there is no power to the head unit.

Could this be related? No fuses would solve either issue.

Instrument Cluster
The instrument cluster, while it lights up, the gauges do no work for the Fuel Level, Coolant Temperature, or Oil, or Battery.

I cannot for the life of me figure this out. I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor to try to solve the coolant temp issue, however, there is no effect on the gauge. The speedo works fine, as does the odometer.

Clicking Noise
There is a prominent clicking noise coming from the distributor area when at speed. Is this normal for the 2.9? I'm assuming that noise is spark? It becomes louder the faster you go. It is definitely not an engine knock, as it distinctly sounds like an electrical click, and while idling can be heard from the distributor area.


I'm planning a 9 hour trip in the next two weeks, so I'm really hoping to try to solve these issues and make a shorter trip before then. Any ideas on these issues would be super helpful. These issues are not throwing codes on the scanner.