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Tips for 2003 Ranger Edger engine removal/install


Mike-DSM

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I have purchased a remanufactured engine for my 2003 Ford Ranger Edge. It is a manual transmission. I have purchased a Haynes manual to aid in my project. I plan on draining the coolant, oil, transmission fluid, and A/C. Removing the radiator and front engine components. Then pulling the engine. Is it possible to pull the engine and transmission as one unit? I know there is more disassembly required than listed. Any tips you can give me to make this easier? Thank in advance. Mike
 


Rangstang

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My credo
If it ain't broke, I can't fix it.
My .02 is only attempt it if you have an engine leveler or tilter. Otherwise you're likely to crack your blower case, damage the edge of your core support or scratch or ding your firewall. These engine bays are so short, it can be tricky to get just an engine in without contact.
 

txgocartB3000

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Why drain your AC?

Remove the components and set them aside.

Ray
 

adsm08

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On a Ranger setup, especially if it is 4x4 you aren't doing yourself any favors, or saving any effort removing the engine and trans as one unit. It is far easier to lay the compressor aside remove just the rad, unbolt the engine from the trans, put a jack under the bell to keep the trans up, and yank the engine by itself.
 

Mike-DSM

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removing transmission

So you are saying just unbolt tranny from engine and pull the engine? Lesve water pump' alt' etc in place? I guess my question is there enough clearance to move the engine forward for the tranny spline to clear the pressure plate? Looks like the engine mounts need to go vertical two inches to disengage. unbolt engine mounts from the engine instead? The Haynes manual is not that great. The last engine I replaced was a chevy 350 in a Camaro. Thanks.
 

Lone-Ranger

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If you remove the radiator, fan, and the accessories (alternator, etc), this should clear plenty of room to yank the engine forward enough to bring it out. As far as engine mounts go, I usually always unbolt them from the engine unless that's more of a pain than unbolting the mounts from the crossmember. And if its got a pile of miles on it, when the engine is out is a perfect time to do a new clutch/slave cylinder!!! I would FOR SURE atleast install a new pilot bearing though, unless the reman'd engine you got came with a new one installed already.
 
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