Thinking of buying 93 4x4 XLT Ranger

zombieologist · Oct 3, 2015

Here is the one that I am looking at...
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/5250801761.html

So I went and I looked at it today. It started right up and there was no smoke. There are no leaks. The underside seemed to be in pretty good shape. Interior was in good shape.

However there might be a few problems. The man said that it was rough shifting out of first until it got warmed up. However, I never got it out of first. I was driving in the back streets and never made it to the highway. There is something wrong with the charging system. He says it is the battery but I am not sure. The battery starts the car and it started fine. However when driving the volts kept going down which tells me that the alternator is not working but i was assured it was a brand new alternator. I was afraid that it would die and not make it back which is why I turned around and didn't get it up to speed. Thoughts?

The transmission fluid looked like dirt. I am wondering if a flush and filter change would help the rough shifting or if the transmission is going out. Thoughts?

Last, the 4WD part... It runs and drives in 2WD but when the 4WD button is pressed, there is just a click that comes from the module and then it never actually switches. I know the module is cheap and easy to replace, but is that the most likely problem or am I looking at something more complicated? Thoughts?

I talked to the guy and I think I can get him to take $900 for it, but I am worried that even at that price I might be biting off more than I can chew. What do you all think? Thanks!

straycat · Oct 4, 2015

I would really need to see it to really give it a going over. He wants $1500 and you might need to do about $800-1000 to get it fixed by what you are saying in your post (shifting, charging issues, etc.). I would walk away from it and look else where and hope you find a better running truck for about the same amount or a bit more. They are out there.

adsm08 · Oct 4, 2015

Buying a 22 year old vehicle you are unlikely to find something perfect. If you found something that old with a solid body and frame I would not bat an eye at a few minor mechanical issues.

Rough shifts on a trans are usually minor. A fluid flush, with a good cleaner, may well take care of that. A soft shift, one that slips, means a torn seal in one of the clutches.

Even if a flush doesn't fix it a harsh shifting trans will last longer than a slipping one, you may well be able to drive that thing for years like that. Just go on expecting it to break and put back a few dollars each week for when it finally does.

Inoperative electric shift 4x4 is usually a motor, which can be cleaned cheaply. Also, electric shift 4x4 is a joke that should never have gotten past the drawing board.

The charging system issue is about the only thing I would be worried about at this point, as it could directly affect the driveability in short order, with little to no warning.

The battery is not likely to be the issue. The alternator could be, even if it has been replaced recently. Not all remans are equal. It could also be a wiring issue, which the wiring system on these is very simple.

If you can buy a solid truck with problems that minor for $900 I'd jump on it and not think twice.

wildbill23c · Oct 4, 2015

After 2 transmission failures within a few years with my 93 Ranger that was driven on the highway all the time after the rebuild and a 2500lb trailer occasionally I'm not a fan of the 93 Rangers with the auto transmissions at all. The rest of the truck was fine, but after the first $3k rebuilt and it failed again in a couple years the truck was sold for $700. I wouldn't really waste too much money on it especially if its already shifting hard...although my 1995 Ford Contour would do that after very long drives and the fix on that was to disconnect the battery for a while, which seemed to fix it until the next time I drove it more than a few hundred miles without stopping.

Denisefwd93 · Oct 4, 2015

oh I love mine! I've only had it about 3 months now, only bought it because it has very little rust. Of course it has dings and dents but it's a solid truck.
Work planned is front and rear crank seals new clutch, fly, and a M5OD Should take it into the next 10 years for me I should live that long lol

zombieologist · Oct 5, 2015

Well, I ended up buying it. But after talking to the guy about all the issues I thought it had and what it might or might not cost to fix, I got it for $600. I figure at that price I recoup most of it at a recycling center if needed. So upon further driving, I was having trouble getting it out of first at all in OD and D, but if I put it in 2nd it worked just fine. The electrical is worrisome. It will not hold a charge to save its life. What is the best way to check the alternator? I was also reading somewhere that there is a fuse in-between the battery and alternator that could be effecting it. But the post I read was not very clear on where the fuse was or what it actually does. Any ideas on that? Since I got it, is it time to start a post in a specific help forum or can I just keep this one going? Thanks!

Denisefwd93 · Oct 5, 2015

zombieologist said:
Well, I ended up buying it. But after talking to the guy about all the issues I thought it had and what it might or might not cost to fix, I got it for $600. I figure at that price I recoup most of it at a recycling center if needed. So upon further driving, I was having trouble getting it out of first at all in OD and D, but if I put it in 2nd it worked just fine. The electrical is worrisome. It will not hold a charge to save its life. What is the best way to check the alternator? I was also reading somewhere that there is a fuse in-between the battery and alternator that could be effecting it. But the post I read was not very clear on where the fuse was or what it actually does. Any ideas on that? Since I got it, is it time to start a post in a specific help forum or can I just keep this one going? Thanks!

Uh get the battery checked is the first thing I would do

Mickey Bitsko · Oct 5, 2015

harbor freight, volt meter and battery tester , best investment for $25 :icon_thumby:

PhillipAshfordJr · Oct 5, 2015

Does that year have manual locking hubs? That may be the 4x4 issue

xcross · Oct 5, 2015

I bought this type of meter and I would say its pretty useful and not bad for the price. It can read voltage and if the alt isn't working properly.

CaliNickXLT · Oct 6, 2015

Easy was to test the alt is start the truck and then unhook the battery. if the truck continues to run the alt is fine. battery is only there to start the truck and the alt does the work from there on out. and if it is new, go to where he bought it and have them test it. if it fails they should replace.

PhillipAshfordJr · Oct 6, 2015

I wouldn't recommend doing that seeing an alternator needs an alternating current, that was okay with a car with a generator but that's been a while.

adsm08 · Oct 6, 2015

CaliNickXLT said:
Easy was to test the alt is start the truck and then unhook the battery.

^Whatever you do, don't to that^!!

if the truck continues to run the alt is fine. battery is only there to start the truck and the alt does the work from there on out. and if it is new, go to where he bought it and have them test it. if it fails they should replace.

It is effective yes, but a very bad idea on a fuel injected engine. It can damage electronics. And the battery is there for more than just starting.

It does things like dampen pulses from the alternator, and take up slack when a sudden load is put on the system, until the alternator can catch up.

PhillipAshfordJr said:
I wouldn't recommend doing that seeing an alternator needs an alternating current, that was okay with a car with a generator but that's been a while.

An alternator does not need alternating current. An alternator produces alternating current. However, modern vehicle electrical systems still run on direct current, and as such the power is converted. Modern alternators are 3-phase, meaning there are 3 sets of windings, making 3 sets of ripples. That alternating current is passed through a set of 3 diodes, which block power running back, turning the AC produces into DC.

CaliNickXLT · Oct 7, 2015

Ive seen it done plenty of times and done it myself a few for a quick check. Shit I've even seen an F150 drive over an hour on just an altantor. I've personally never seen any damage to any electrical or any fuses blown. But mabey I'm just really lucky.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

adsm08 · Oct 7, 2015

I have seen it happen. I'll admit that it isn't the most common thing to happen, but it is possible. About a year ago at work we had one that we though was just a dead battery, guy jumped it, pulled the jump pack off, and drove it in, after he shut it down the engine wouldn't restart and the PCM wouldn't communicate anymore. Found the starting problem was a rotted out ground cable for the battery. He had the jump pack grounded to the engine and bypassed that bad wire when he jumped.

Thinking of buying 93 4x4 XLT Ranger

New Member

New Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

New Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals