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Another Ranger 5.0


ascentpro

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I'm really bad about keeping these threads updated but I'm bored and figured I should start one for my current project. I don't have many pictures now but I'll be sure to take some. I picked up a rusty 1999 Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0 AWD with 17x,xxx miles and a strong motor on the cheap. I already had a 1998 Supercab 2wd ranger with an empty engine bay and about the same miles (used to have a 3.0). I like having a truck more and decided to combine the two. As of now the motor is in and it starts but I have no driveshaft and I need a different starter for my setup. I also need to finish the exhaust and tune the computer to remove the auto trans functions. The explorer starter stays in contact with the flywheel once started because of the difference in gear length between manual and auto starters. I plan on getting the starter specific to the F250. These are the specs:

-ZF5 from a 1991 F-250 4x4
-stock 1991 F250 slave cylinder
-master clutch cylinder from a 1999 f550 modified to fit
-Steering column from explorer
-Added PATS (none in the 1998 Ranger)
-explorer overhead and center consoles
-custom motor mounts
-2 inch body lift
-modified trans crossmember
-trans mount from ranger
-manual truck pedal assembly (originally auto)
-explorer radiator
-explorer leather seats
-I'm sure there's more I'm forgetting

I bolted up the explorer AWD transfer case for the time being but am looking to put in a BW4406 from a full size truck. Originally I planned to put in the BW1356 I pulled from the F250 with the ZF5 but I don't like how fetching big it is. I haven't measured a 4406 yet but from what I have read/seen online it is slightly smaller. Eventually I would like to put in an NP205 but don't want the weight hanging off the ZF5 until I can build a cradle for it. Now I'm sure you're wondering why the 4x4 gear in a 98 2wd truck. I plan on doing a SAS like I've seen done in a few other trucks of this vintage. Coil springs with radius arms and a track bar. The plan is a full size 3/4 ton Dana 44 up front and a Dana 60 out back. Eventually I would like to run OX Lockers front and rear. My end goal for tire size is 36" with 4.56 gears. With the granny low of the ZF5 I don't foresee needing a doubler but you never know. At some point I would like to build up a mild 302 as well but that would be after front/rear axle swaps. It's 2 in the AM and I'm sure I've missed a lot of stuff but I plan on being back!

 


Rowdy Fitzgerald

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35
Sounds like you've got most everything covered! I recommend getting the high torque starter. It's way smaller and easier to install and remove. I've got the ZF with a doubler and the 205. I didn't have to trim anything off the tail housing of the trans because the doubler was made for the 205. If you're worried about weight you could get a doubler designed to adapt to the dana 20 from a early bronco. I thought about doing this but I already had a 205.


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ascentpro

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Do you have the buildup of your truck on here? I would like to see it. Thanks for the comments!

I went to a local wrecking yard this morning to try and find a driveshaft that was the length I need but couldn't. I'm going to make one instead. At lunch I cut the explorer shaft apart using the lathe at work.

 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Tire Size
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Yep it's called The Ranger. I went through it last night and a ton of my pictures are missing. Idk what caused it.


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ascentpro

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I didn't get as much done as I had hoped today, friggin July and it started raining. I mounted the starter solenoid and wired it in. I also got the new starter but haven't installed it yet. I did a few interior things as well. Today was kind of a downer; I had hoped to get a driveshaft made today and take her for a spin but that didn't happen. After some research I've come to the conclusion that the 2 3/4" diameter, 1/16" thick explorer drive shaft isn't going to cut it once I extend it. Instead I'm opting for a shaft made from 3" x .083" DOM. I ordered up the parts I need online and will save about 200 dollars over the quote I got from Six States Distributors to make me a custom shaft. Unfortunately one of the companies I ordered parts from is on vacation until Monday so it will probably be another week before I can get on the road. Gives me time to button everything up I guess. Maybe I can find the transfer case I want before then. I didn't get the camera out in the rain so I'll try to get pictures tomorrow.
 

ascentpro

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I tinkered for about an hour between jobs today and I also made a block off plate at work during lunch. It is for the giant hole I cut in the floor for my shifter.



Then I installed it



I took a few pictures but didn't have much time and it started raining again.

Here is the F550 master cylinder, it looks very similar to the ranger version except it has a larger bore and therefore needs the hole it sits in enlarged.





 

ascentpro

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So I have a question for anyone who has experience with running any of these ratios. I'm planning out my SAS and trying to decide on my gear ratio; I'm going to run 35" KM2's with a stock explorer 5.0, wide ratio ZF5 and BW1356. When I crunch the numbers 4.10 gears keep my highway RPM's very close to stock. At 2500 RPM in 5th I would be going 84 MPH and in the stock explorer 86 MPH at 2500 RPM. I would like to keep my highway mileage close to where it is and with the granny low I don't need to worry about off road performance being affected. But the real question is with the added rotating weight of the tires and larger axles should I get 4.56 ratios? With this ratio I would only be going 75 MPH at 2500 RPM. Any thoughts?
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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Vehicle Year
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Make / Model
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Engine Size
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Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
Solid Axle Swap 4x4
Total Lift
6”
Tire Size
35
That's the setup I used to run. I didn't have a tach so I can't say about the RPMs but 4.56's are nice with the 35's. How much off roading do you plan to do? 4.10's compared to 4.56's isn't a very big jump for 4wd speed. If you're gonna be pavement driving a ton go for the 4.10's. If you're just gonna be driving to the trails then 4.56's or even lower. I added a doubler to my set up to slow it down even more.


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ascentpro

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The parts for my drive shaft showed up in the mail.



 

Jbrown1238

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I noticed you are using the F550 clutch master cylinder. How does that set up work in a running truck? Does it feel like there is slightly more travel or disengagement then the OE application?
 

ascentpro

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Without a lot of fabrication the F250 clutch won't fit so I found this one that does fit with only a slight amount of enlargement of the hole in the pedal assembly. The stock ranger master has a smaller bore so I don't think that would've worked at all. This one works but it disengages the clutch at the very bottom of the pedal. I'm going to remove some material on the assembly so I get a little more travel out of my pedal to make it better. It would work great on other transmissions I'm sure but if you look up the stock F250 master it has an extremely big bore.
 

ascentpro

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Today I got some help with the sewing and made a boot for my shifter.

 

ascentpro

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Last night I worked on the ol girl and got some pictures of the way I did things.

Motor mounts: (its a tight spot for pictures)


drive shaft pre paint


I decided to go ahead and use the bw 1356 so I notched my frame




 

ascentpro

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Engine Size
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Manual
I have been running around in my truck for about a week now and it is awesome. So much better than the 2.3 rangers I've had. I finished my exhaust; I cut out the rear cat's and merged the two pipes into one 3 inch and through a 3 inch glass pack. It sounds good and the drone is not that bad on the freeway. I am getting some vibrations above 65mph that I'm attributing to my drive shaft that needs to be balanced. Has anyone used any tuning software or a tuning company that can remove CEL's? I am getting codes for not having the automatic transmission hooked up and need to resolve it before I can pass emission testing.
 

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