Getting better handling.

Yamidora · May 28, 2015

At first I would like to apologize if this may not be the right subforum for my topic.

I would like to get a better overall handling for my Ranger. It's a 2wd one.

At the moment I am running stock suspension and i would like to keep it like that since I want to build this car as my daily driver.

The problem is that I recognize every single bump on the street. The front is hitting hard and making some metallic noises which propably comes from the cab mount bushings. They are gone be replaced soon.

I got new shocks in the front ant the back but the back is also bouncing alot due to low weight and the 295s. I will go for 235 front and back I think.

So now my specific question is. Is it worth to replace my shocks in the back again for some coilovers or are they just for heavy weights?
Maybe I should add a sway bar in the front?

I am glad for any help.

Greetings from Germany
Yamidora

alwaysFlOoReD · May 28, 2015

Replacing bushings is a good start. Axle beam bushings, radius arm bushings for the front, spring eye bushings for the front of the rear springs and replace the shackle bushings too. There are coil spring pads that could be worn out under the front springs. I dont know where to get those, perhaps make your own from belting. I would start with those along with your body mount bushings, then see if you still think you need shocks.

Yamidora · May 28, 2015

I allready replaced radius arm bushings, axle pivot bushings, renewes complete tie rods from the pitman arm to the wheels.

Got ball joints and cab mount bushings laying around.

Thanks for the tip with the springs, I'll check them.

Yamidora · May 28, 2015

If you check out this page.
http://lmctruck.com/icatalog/fr/full.aspx?Page=40
Which part is ment with coil spring pads?

alwaysFlOoReD · May 28, 2015

#5 - coil spring insulator

TxGasRacer · May 28, 2015

#5 - coil spring insulator

alwaysFlOoReD · May 28, 2015

^^^ similar but those are for an sla front - from 98 to 2011. yamidora has a 1990 tib front. the OP pic is from a 4x4 ttb but I believe the 2x4 tib is the same for that part. edit; It may be that the 98-2011 is the same as earlier but I have no experience from 93 and newer.

TxGasRacer · May 28, 2015

Opps Sorry about that,I need to read the post a little closer, Thanks

Yamidora · May 28, 2015

Well I've never been disappointed by lmctruck. THe image sais 83-97 and I trust them. =)

woodyedmiston · Jun 19, 2015

One of the best things you can do to improve the handling of your truck is replace the front sway bar bushings if not the whole bar. Some of the Explorer bars are larger diameter, some of the Rangers may be as well - I haven't researched them. But...you can look at the wrecking yard for something a little heavier. While you are at it get some Energy Suspension poly bushings for it. (Be sure to get them for the year and model of the new bar - not your truck)
My truck has an Expedition 1.400" bar that is stiff as hell. Drives very well.

Yamidora · Jul 8, 2015

woodyedmiston said:
One of the best things you can do to improve the handling of your truck is replace the front sway bar bushings if not the whole bar. Some of the Explorer bars are larger diameter, some of the Rangers may be as well - I haven't researched them. But...you can look at the wrecking yard for something a little heavier. While you are at it get some Energy Suspension poly bushings for it. (Be sure to get them for the year and model of the new bar - not your truck)
My truck has an Expedition 1.400" bar that is stiff as hell. Drives very well.

I am sorry for the late reply but i haven't been around for a while.

May be a dumb question but normally the sway bar should be located infront of your front suspension right?

If you look at this picture:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/suspension/TIB4x2.jpg

This is my suspension. I cannot see any sway bar in there and I guess i dont have one on my truck?

Btw Germany isn't as easy as America. You can't take pieces that are not an original replacement or do have a certification for that car. It wouldn't make it through the next inspection.

------------------------------

But ok.

I replaced the front upper and lower ball joints. Figured out I had 2 different ones left and right side. Also replaced the cab mount bushings which were worn out as hell and allready been cut once because they were broken. The old ones were soft aswell.

The ride of the front suspension has increased significantly but there is still a small metallic bump that may come from the spring bushings like mentioned before.

Another question.
There is cross strut attached to the frame with bushings and a spindle at the position where the doors are. What is that for? Cannot find any picture of it.

woodyedmiston · Jul 8, 2015

sway bar

I have absolutely no experience with the twin I beam front suspension. All my experimentation and modification has been with the dual a arm Coil spring 2 wheel drive. Since your truck is older I doubt there is an aftermarket certified sway bar you could add to your unit. But since I don't work or live where you do I'm just talking through my hat. I would mention but if you can get to Mexico our immigration standards from there seem to be rather lax. Then you could come here and modify your truck to suit yourself.
I hope you have the very best of luck with your truck.

alwaysFlOoReD · Jul 8, 2015

I have an earlier model ranger, an 1986. The sway bar is located behind the axles along the bottom of the radius arm crosmember and run up the inside of the radius arm towards the front of the truck. Yours may be the same.

AllanD · Jul 8, 2015

IF your truck is bottoming you need either stiffer springs or more ride height.

because if you are bottoming your truck is NOT "suspended" but "Grounded"
and a vehicle that is bottoming cannot be "tuned"

As a general rule 90% of suspension tuning is making the tires happy, the OTHER 90% is making the driver happy.

And if you don't understand how you can have 90% plus 90% join the rest of the world....

AD

AllanD · Jul 8, 2015

IF your truck is bottoming you need either stiffer springs or more ride height.

because if you are bottoming your truck is NOT "suspended" but "Grounded"
and a vehicle that is bottoming cannot be "tuned"

As a general rule 90% of suspension tuning is making the tires happy, the OTHER 90% is making the driver happy.

And if you don't understand how you can have 90% plus 90% join the rest of the world....

If the suspension does something you don't lake when cornering, it is better that it be consistent, because if it is inconsistent you never know quite what it is about to do....

As a general rule I beam susoended rangers need to use a HEAVY front Anti-roll bar
and relatively stiff shocks along with enough rear anti-roll stiffness to attempt to balance out the understeer (front end plowing) that the stiff front bar causes....

Not running a stiff bar on the front isn't an option unless you like experiencing the jacking effects you get from hard cornering with a beam suspension.
(the outboard tire corners until it starts to tuck then it unloads and is replaced by sudden massive oversteer)

I recommend you explore the limits somewhere that there is nothing to "run"
or more properly "slide", into...

When I still drove a 2wd I set the suspension for fairly consistant, but PREDICTABLY
oversteer

Getting better handling.

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