1994 B3000 3.0l V6 water in oil, need help

InTitusville · Sep 9, 2014

I have a 1994 Mazda B3000 SE with a 3.0l V6. I was driving today and everything seemed fine then the engine bogged down then stalled. I could get it started so I check the fluids and the oil is milky. From the past in most cases milky oil is from a bad intake gasket or not as often a head gasket. Tomorrow I will try checking compression. Does the 3.0l V6 have one cam or 2? Is there a 1994, 3.0l V6 engine break down (parts explosion) diagram someplace?

Now the questions...

1. If all cylinders have decent compression do I assume the problem is the intake gaskets?
2. If 1 cylinder is bad, what would that be?
3. If more than one cylinder is bad do I assume head gasket and if head gasket and I have it that far apart do I do both sides.
4. Now if any of the above is bad any where I can look to see how to take the engine apart?
5. If non of the above, what do I do????

97mazda · Sep 9, 2014

Coolant in the oil is when there is a sever leak in cooling system from blown head gasket,
 
Best bet is to pull both heads and have them tested(pressure test) and surfaced(made flat) 
Get a head gasket kit/set and new head bolts(can't reuse this type of head bolt) 
 
 
There are a few ways to confirm a cylinder leak 
Block test: this is a chemical test to determine if there is "exhaust" gas mixed with the coolant in the radiator, you can buy a kit for this test or call a shop to see how much they would charge for this test. 
 
If you trust your nose, open rad cap and smell, if it smells like exhaust then confirmed

Pull all the spark plugs and inspect the tips, super clean tip means it was being "steam cleaned" by coolant(which is what makes the white smoke) 
 
Glove test: 
cold engine 
remove rad cap and overflow hose 
disconnect coil wire, you want a no start 
 
Place latex glove over rad cap opening, use rubber band to seal it tight to rad 
Block overflow tube, vacuum cap from upper intake works or if you have some one else to crank engine use your finger to block opening. 
 
Crank engine 
If glove bounces then you have a leak from a cylinder into cooling system, confirmed. 
If you want to find out which cylinder, remove 1 spark plug at a time and crank engine, when glove stops bouncing that last spark plug removed was in the leaking cylinder. 
Put spark plug back in to confirm. 
 
 
There are "head gasket sealer" products available, these are temporary fixes at best, but can work, but not on 100% of the leaks, so IMO best to just get the problem fixed, but if it would be a better time in a month or two then spending the $25-$40 on the "sealer" might be something to consider. 
No, there is no "best one", they all pretty much work the same way. 
And no, they won't clog up the rad or heater core, that is not how they work.

97mazda · Sep 9, 2014

Hope this helps ya

InTitusville · Sep 9, 2014

I saw the exact reply you posted on another similar post and it was a great help for ideas. I will take that in mind when I take the engine apart. I knew someone that had a late 1990s chevy car that had milky oil and it was the intake gasket. I have a 1990 Mustang 2.3L 4cyl engine and the blew the head gasket 2 times so I brought he head to be rebuilt and was told there were at least 7 cracks, found a used head at a junkyard had the head rebuilt and so far so good.

Now, on this B3000 3.0L V6 engine, does it have 1 or 2 cams and is there some sort of illustrated engine diagram for this engine so I can have an idea what I'm working with?

Any tips on how to take this engine apart. I've rebuilt 1966, 1968 and 1990 Mustangs engines but would like a little more info on this engine before I go and pull it apart.

alwaysFlOoReD · Sep 9, 2014

I pulled these two links from the tech page, located at the top of every page just to the right and below the TRS logo.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.shtml
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.shtml

Hope that helps a bit,
Richard

InTitusville · Sep 9, 2014

Thanks for the links, they will help but I was looking for a parts diagram / parts explosion and/or illustrated engine diagram like this:

enjr44 · Sep 10, 2014

Not an answer to your request; but, just a little more information.

Read through this thread:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155509

InTitusville · Sep 10, 2014

That link was the original post I found doing searches and how I found this site. I did this post because I have milky oil and the other post was white smoke and not milky oil. The engine diagrams I posted are a help but i can't find any step-by-step directions or video on how to take the engine apart and put it back together but I guess it's about the same as any other engine and you did give a link to the torque specs. I plan to check the compression shortly.

alwaysFlOoReD · Sep 10, 2014

Its been a long time since I've rebuilt an engine. What I've noticed that has changed is torque to yield head bolts. I think but don't know for sure that is the main difference. I'd purchase a manual for peace of mind.

InTitusville · Sep 15, 2014

I didn't have much time but I was able to get 4 spark plugs out easily (2 in the back on the drives side and 2 in the front on the other side). I check these 4 and I get between 100 to 120. I assume it's not a blow-through between cylinders. My guess is still with the intake... Anyone with my on that theory? I really don't wan to take the heads off but it looks like in any case I will need to take the intake off. This may take a while since I have MS and can only do so much. I will post pictures as I go along since it's had to find any sort of instructions on this.

InTitusville · Sep 15, 2014

More parts diagram / parts explosion and/or illustrated engine diagrams

InTitusville · Sep 15, 2014

A really good color parts diagram / parts explosion and/or illustrated engine diagram.

InTitusville · Sep 16, 2014

This is what happens when you blow an engine gasket... This is engine oil mixed with coolant. It's disgusting and as think as latex paint.

InTitusville · Sep 17, 2014

Spark plugs look clean and compression is 110 to 120. I have the intake plenum and one valve cover off. This gunk is all over everything and think like latex paint. Any idea how to get all this cleaned up. Do I need to take the oil pan off and clean that and the oil pump off? Do I need to flush the radiator and how and with what?

Looks like the was as much oil/water mix in the oil pan as there was in the water pump. I included a picture that shows the radiator hose inlet to the water pump and the 2 heater core inlets. One heater inlet doesn't look like the other inlet and radiator inlet.

InTitusville · Sep 30, 2014

I have the intake off and looks like the gasket bad in one place but not sure. Call the local machine shop and as I thought they suggested since the engine is as far apart as I have it I should take the heads off and have them rebuilt. I didn't want that expense on a truck with almost 200,000 miles. See photo where I think the intake gasket when bad and the clogged coolant port on the driver side cylinder head.

1994 B3000 3.0l V6 water in oil, need help

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