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More 93 ranger problems


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Welcome back to my posts with only problems and little to no solutions that I can afford.

So today I have a new problem that finally made it to where I cant work to try and get anything fixed. I am not sure what the problem is but it seems to be fuel related and maybe a misfire. When I get on the gas it will just cut power and not want to move but idle in no gear it has little to no problems.

My brother in-law told me about a code reader for the 93 rangers for the obd1 port and the codes it read back were 539 10 and 111 so all fine well maybe not the ac but I dont use that in the first place.

I have no idea what the problems is and neither does my brother in-law(For some background he rebuild a 93 ford ranger auto and converted to manual. So I do trust he knows what he is talking about.)

Here is a video of what it does when starting if any ideas please let me know I am about to just trade it off or park it and get a new vehicle for the time being.
Edit: Link should now work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yETBjSzIQl8&feature=youtu.be
 
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RonD

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Your Ranger is 25 years old, stuff will wear out, and at 25 years it will be sooner than later

I read your other posts

So you have installed a new fan clutch?
You never said

And the smell post was nothing wrong just a smell at a street location you stop at, right?

1993 4.0l Ranger will last, I have a 1994 4.0l with 400k so I KNOW it will :)

Video did not work for me???

If engine idles OK but hesitates when you give it more air you might be looking at low fuel pressure.
When was fuel filter last changed?
Should be done every 5 years or so.
Dirty filter will cause your problem, only $10 to replace

On the fuel rail, its sandwiched in between upper and lower intake, is a fuel pressure test port, passenger side, it looks like a tires air valve, because it is a schrader valve, thats what a tires air valve is.
You know how to let air out of a tire, well fuel pressure test port works the same way, press on center pin.

With engine COLD, start it up and let it idle
Press on fuel pressure pin, there should be 30psi pressure in there so be careful, it can spray a long way, and you wouldn't want it landing on HOT exhaust, so COLD ENGINE for this test.
If only a little fuel comes out and engine stalls then you have no fuel pressure or very very little.
Could be bad Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR).

There are TWO fuel lines coming to the engine from the gas tank.
The IN line has the pressure and is connected to fuel rail on drivers side

The OUT, back to gas tank, line is on the FPR, it is located behind the alternator passenger side of engine, just above lower intake.
FPR also has vacuum hose attached.
Check that vacuum hose for gasoline, shouldn't be any in there, if so FPR is for sure bad.

Now that you have found the OUT line you can use vise grips to SOFTLY pinch this hose/line to block fuel flow, that is what the FPR is suppose to do, it blocks fuel flow until pressure is above 45psi.

If pinching off the OUT(return) line allows engine to REV up again then replace FPR
 

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So sorry for not updating on my old posts...
No I have not replaced the fan clutch yet trying to still save up money because I am about to move luckily getting a roommate. As for the odd smell it was a can of Pb blaster in my tool box that had somehow got the cap knocked off and tilted over so when I would make the turn literally at that one stop light it would press against the top and start spraying.

As for testing it I will have to let the engine cool and get some help there was a new code that popped up after I just got it home and it read 543 secondary fuel circuit fault. In the morning when I get up I am gonna have to take the bed off again and see if its the pump or wiring, if the wiring is good I will go get a fuel pressure test kit from auto zone just for the day and see if that is the problem.

So here is a list of what I have done to the vehicle with approximate dates
Fuel Filter July 2017
Fuel Pump July 2017
Head gasket, thermostat August 2017
Tires December 2017
Clutch December 2017
Brakes and brake master December 2017
Clutch Master April 2018
Fuel filler neck May 2018
Bed bolts May 2018
 
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RonD

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Code 543 Secondary fuel pump power

"Secondary" in this case is the main fuel pump power, lol

From Battery positive there is a Fuel Pump Fuse in engine fuse box
That goes to the Fuel Pump Relay
From there fuel pump power goes to the Inertia switch in the cab, passenger side under glove box usually, it has a Red Button on the top

The Computer has a Monitor Wire on the inertia switch, and if this wire shows low voltage you get code 543.

Battery----------fuse--------relay---------inertia switch <<<<<loss of power from here back to battery is code 543
So not a fuel pump issue

So............you need to check or swap out Fuel Pump fuse, and Fuel Pump relay

Then test inertia switch, with engine idling have a volt meter or test light on the PINK wire coming out of the inertia switch, should be 13.5 volts or so, tap on the inertia switch, if voltage fluctuates switch is bad, jumper it for now but should be replaced for safety reasons
 

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So I went ahead and looked at the fuse and relay and tried to find the inertia switch but had no luck I looked at the fuse its fine not blown checked the relay it works fine. But I could not find the inertia switch unless I am blind or its not in the same location. Here are some pics https://imgur.com/a/OOuzgw1
Edit: I found the inertia switch and it was pressed down... So I guess when I get my day off I will have a buddy help me get the bed off again and check the voltage at the pump to see if its just the old wiring....
 
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So just to be clear the inertia switch does have to be hooked up to be able to start the vehicle correct because it starts if I have it unplugged and I am really wondering what the **** is wrong at this point.
https://youtu.be/cHFZ5mfKKTI
 

Vincenthdfan

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Yes, the inertia switch must be plugged in for the pump to operate.

In fact, before changing a fuel filter, that's how you de-pressurize the fuel line...unhook inertia switch and crank engine over several revolutions....just did it the other day.
 

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So a friends friend heard about my problems and they are thinking it might be bad gas. So I am gonna get all that gas out and put some new in from sams club and see if its just that if not then I will go from there gonna have to check with the waste management to see where I can get rid of the old gas if it is contaminated... I guess here goes $10 worth of gas.
 

RonD

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Drain some gasoline out and put it in a clear glass container
"Bad gas" means there is more water than usual in the gasoline

Water is heavier than gasoline, and will not mix with gasoline, so it will settle to the bottom of any container, like a gas tank, or clear glass container.

Let it sit for an hour and then look for the layer of water on the bottom, a little is normal
 

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