Cranks but Doesn't Start, No Fuel Pump Sound

arcwelder · Jan 14, 2018

Hey Guys,

I have a 2002 Ranger Edge 3.0L gas with 121k miles. A few months ago, it would occasionally crank but not start after being driven for a while (maybe 5+ miles). After sitting for about a day, it would then start right up. Now, it'll crank but not start at all, even when cold. When it doesn't start, I can't hear the fuel pump hum at all when I turn the key on.

I checked the fuses, and they seem good. The fuel pump relay seems good, but I swapped it with a different relay just to make sure, and no luck. The intertia switch hasn't been tripped.

As of now, I'm guessing that it's the fuel pump, but I've also read that it could be the coolant temperature sensor or something else, so I'm trying to go through all the proper steps. I tried checking the voltage at the inertia switch, but got zero volts, but I suspect I might just be doing something wrong. What I did was disconnect the inertia switch, and then I put the negative side of my multimeter to a metal surface within the engine compartment, and the positive end to each of the contacts (one at a time) of the intertia switch connector, and then turned the key to the on position. However, I didn't get any voltage read. Is this the right way to do this?

Also, should I unplug the fuel pump fuse and check for voltage there? If so, does it matter which prong (negative or positive) of my multimeter I stick in each hole?

Something I wanted to mention: I found that I had a coolant leak (from my lower radiator hose), and so the coolant in the radiator was a little low (maybe ~3 inches from the top). The truck never overheated and the radiator is now correctly filled, but I'm not sure if this could have been the cause of my problem (maybe it damaged the coolant temperature sensor, etc.?).

Any thoughts on what the problem might be and how to best go about troubleshooting would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

cbxer55 · Jan 15, 2018

When you first turn the key on, don't start the engine right away. You should hear a hiss, and then a click as the regulator activates. If you don't, the fuel pump is likely bad.

Have you checked fuel pressure lately? Mine is a 98, and I had to install a new pump in December 2016. It would run, but didn't have enough power to get out of it's own way.

Aside from that, every time I've had a crank no start issue, it's been due to plugged injectors. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer in January 2017, and their analysis was badly plugged injectors. They ran some gunk through it, and it worked for a week. Then started acting up again. Started running 10% ethanol fuel after that, as ethanol is a powerful solvent. Haven't had another problem with it since. The owners manual for my 98 says it can handle 10% ethanol no problem. Has so far. Haven't even noticed a drop in mileage all this last year. Mileage has been better in 2017 than it has for many years previous. Haven't seen the P0171/174 codes for lean mixture all year either. Used to be a regular thing.

Rearanger · Jan 15, 2018

How do you know it's not spark?

RonD · Jan 15, 2018

Yes, most likely fuel pump has failed if you don't hear it for the 2 seconds with key on

But do 50/50 test
Remove air tube from upper intake, screw driver
Open throttle and spray gasoline or Starter fluid(ether) into the intake
Crank the engine
If it starts and dies then spark and compression are OK but there is no fuel from injectors
If it doesn't start/fire then spark is the problem, maybe compression
50/50

arcwelder · Jan 15, 2018

Thanks all for your responses.

I forgot to mention that I did check spark at one of the spark plug boots, and there was spark. I haven't tried the 50/50 test.

When I turn the key on and don't start the car, I don't hear any hiss. I don't have a pressure gauge, but I tried pushing down on the fuel line schrader valve, and nothing came out.

I think the truck has probably always used 10% ethanol gasoline (I'm in California, and from what I understand, all of our gas has ethanol except for maybe about 10 or so gas stations within the entire state).

Should I go ahead and try the 50/50 test?

Thanks again.

RonD · Jan 15, 2018

Free test, lol.

But it does read like fuel pump has failed

Removing/sliding back the bed is best way to change pump
6 bed bolts and 3 screw on filler tube, unplug tail light harness.
You can leave back two bolts in but loose and tilt bed up to get enough room, but this also depends on the bumper clearance.

arcwelder · Jan 15, 2018

Thanks RonD. That's a good point regarding the 50/50 test being free--I'll have to give it a shot.

Will checking the voltage at the fuel pump connector give me any good info? To do that, would I just touch the negative terminal of my multimeter to the chassis, and the positive end one at a time to each terminal with the key on and check for 12v? Also, do you think that I need to verify the voltage at the inertia switch? If so, any tips on how to correctly do that?

I was also wondering if its normal for a failing fuel pump to not start once the vehicle is warmed up, or do they typically just suddenly stop working?

Thanks again.

RonD · Jan 15, 2018

At the fuel pump connector there will be a Pink/black stripe wire, thats the 12volts from the inertia switch.

Black wire is the Fuel Pump Ground

Yellow/white stripe Fuel gauge sender
Black/orange stripe is sender Ground

So if you put meters RED probe on Pink wire, and Black probe on Black wire
Then turn key on, you should see 12volts for about 2 seconds, this would test that fuel pump is getting 12 volts AND is Grounded

You will see 5-8volts on Pink wire all the time when key is on, that has no AMPs just monitor voltage from computer

arcwelder · Jan 15, 2018

Awesome thanks again RonD, I really appreciate it. I'll give this a shot.

cbxer55 · Jan 16, 2018

arcwelder said:
I was also wondering if its normal for a failing fuel pump to not start once the vehicle is warmed up, or do they typically just suddenly stop working?

Thanks again.

I'll just say what happened to mine. Mine was weak for a year or so prior to going total bust. I was seeing a max of 35 to 40 psi all the time. Ran fine, accelerated fine, no codes. NOTHING! Then, one day, coming home from a drive around my favorite curvy road, all of the sudden it didn't have enough power to go uphill on a very slight incline. Kept balking and not taking throttle. Got home and put the fuel gauge on, less than 20 psi. When it cooled down it recovered. For a very short time, then down in the basement again. Yes, it would start just fine. It just didn't have enough fuel to accept throttle, mostly if the road was pointed even the slightest bit uphill.

To this day, even with a new pump, it will not hold pressure once the ignition switch is turned off. It drops to zero very quickly. But, every time I start it, VROOM, it starts right up and maintains 62 psi. Hot or cold. The pump was installed in early December 2016. From what I've read here, most aftermarket new pumps don't make it a year. Guess I'm doing good.

cbxer55 · Jan 16, 2018

arcwelder said:
I think the truck has probably always used 10% ethanol gasoline (I'm in California, and from what I understand, all of our gas has ethanol except for maybe about 10 or so gas stations within the entire state).

Thanks again.

I'd suspect that the only gas that has ethanol is the lowest octane, 87. Here in Oklahoma, that's how it is. 87 only has ethanol. And even at that, most stations offer two pumps for 87, one with ethanol and one without. We have E85, E100, 91 without ethanol and even 93. I can even buy 110 octane, unleaded or leaded, without any fanfare.

RonD · Jan 16, 2018

arcwelder said:
...................................

I was also wondering if its normal for a failing fuel pump to not start once the vehicle is warmed up, or do they typically just suddenly stop working?

Thanks again.

Electric motors, and electricity, are effected by heat, resistance goes up with temperature, thats how the engine temp sensors/senders work.

Fuel pumps sit at the bottom of the gas tank and are cooled by the gas in the tank, and they do generate heat while running

Electric motors draw highest AMPs at start up, and a little higher when warm than cold.

So it would be possible for a failing electric motor to not startup when it is warm but work again after it cooled down.
And the gas level in the tank could also effect that, more gas better cooling.

Electric motors don't usually stop working after they startup, normal failure is that they just don't start one day.

Starter Motors fail like that, they usually don't stop mid-crank, they may crank slowly at the end but once started they crank, then one day, nothing, no crank

cbxer55 · Jan 16, 2018

The electric pump for the intercooler on the Ford Lightning is a good example. They come on when intake temperature hits 100 degrees, I believe. But, when they get on in years, sometimes you have to lean over and give them a good swift hit with a hard object to get them started. At this point it's best to replace them! :icon_idea:

And yes, I never let my fuel level get below half tank. For the reason stated above. I also like to add a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil to my fuel tanks, as it helps keep moving parts that don't normally get oiled, lubed up. May be the reason the stock Ranger fuel pump lasted 19 years and 150,000 miles? :icon_confused:

My Lightning has two fuel pumps on the assembly, and I have a friend or two that have triple pump assemblies. Imagine having to keep track of three pumps? :shok:

arcwelder · Jan 16, 2018

Thanks guys for all the great information.

I was thinking of getting a Delphi pump since it's quite a bit less expensive than a Motorcraft pump, and the truck doesn't get driven a ton. You've got me a bit worried about going aftermarket now cbxer.

cbxer55 · Jan 17, 2018

arcwelder said:
Thanks guys for all the great information.

I was thinking of getting a Delphi pump since it's quite a bit less expensive than a Motorcraft pump, and the truck doesn't get driven a ton. You've got me a bit worried about going aftermarket now cbxer.

It's just something I read here, that aftermarket pumps only last a year or so. Time will tell of course. Mine's going on 14 months now. I mean, it could be that a lot of folks run their fuel tank down until the low fuel light comes on, and the pump may be out of the gasoline coolant by that time. Mayhap, if you do as I do, and never let it get below half tank, maybe it'll never be a problem.

My pump came from Sears, btw.

Cranks but Doesn't Start, No Fuel Pump Sound

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