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1992 Ranger Door Pin Restoration Question


rangerenthiusiast

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I just picked up a ’92 Ranger Custom and have the typical driver’s side door sag. As a result, the door doesn’t close properly. If I open it and pick up on the back end of the door, you can see that there’s a lot of slop (play) in the bottom hinge pin. I was thinking of driving the pin out and replacing it and the spacer with an inexpensive kit like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/332176665889

Anyone tried it? I know they sell some kind of tool for driving the old pin out, but would rather avoid that, if possible. Is the factory pin held in by some kind of spot weld? If so, would you have to put another spot weld on the new pin after installation to hold it in place, or do the splines on the new pin cut their way into the hinge as you drive it in somehow? I’ve seen other aftermarket pin versions that use a threaded locknut to hold them on, but would rather keep things looking as stock as possible without spending a fortune on a new hinge.

Thanks, everyone. :icon_thumby:
 
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ericbphoto

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That link took me to a roller and pin assembly. What you really want for the sagging door is the hinge pin and bushing kit. I worked on my door pin and bushings on my '88 F150 many, many years ago so I don't remember many details. seems that it wasn't too hard to get the old parts out. I probably used a hammer and thin punch (or nail). I actually found some ball lock pins to use. my intentions were to be able to remove the doors easily like a J JJ Jee... well, you know. One of those OTHER 4x4 vehicles. I just can't type the name.
 

saskbill

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I've never driven out the hinge pin, but I've sure had doors on and off a couple rangers. The hinges are bolt-on, to the doors and too the body, so worst case, pull off the doors, then lay em down and pull off the hinges, then take the hinges to the vise or press and do the replacement there.

The following is a link to a fellow replacing the pins and bushings on a (whisper) S-10, but overall should be similar:

https://somanyhobbies.wordpress.com/2012/10/12/auto-repair-door-hinge-pin-replacement/
 

rangerenthiusiast

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That link took me to a roller and pin assembly. What you really want for the sagging door is the hinge pin and bushing kit. I worked on my door pin and bushings on my '88 F150 many, many years ago so I don't remember many details. seems that it wasn't too hard to get the old parts out. I probably used a hammer and thin punch (or nail). I actually found some ball lock pins to use. my intentions were to be able to remove the doors easily like a J JJ Jee... well, you know. One of those OTHER 4x4 vehicles. I just can't type the name.
Thanks ericphoto, and ha! on the J J J... lol

Well, that blows. So here’s a dumb question... where does the roller and pin assembly go? Is it part of the upper door hinge or another part of the lower hinge? Somehow, in all my years, I’ve never worked on a door hinge.

I took a quick look at the hinge itself yesterday and I’m a little stumped as to how to drive the pin out, other than to cut it. It looks like there’s a flare to the bottom of the pin, so it can’t move upward. Drilling out the flare with a titanium bit is also a possibility. I know some sites sell a “pin popper” tool, but I hate to spend the money on something that may not work or I only use once. :icon_confused:
 

ericbphoto

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1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
It may be easiest to unbolt the hinge from the door and truck as mentioned above. Then you can put it in a vice and drill or grind the flared part off.

I think the roller doohickey goes in one of the hinges and acts as what is called a "door stop". It rolls on a springy part and provides the detents that hold the door open or half open.
 

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