What Carb do I have?

bbbc3 · Sep 11, 2014

I've convinced myself that my bad gas milage is due to an out of wack carburator. I've ordered a code reader so that I can see exactly what is going on with my truck. I"m really leaning toward ordering one of National Carburator's carbs for $180ish..

What carb do I have on my 85' so I'll know which one to order?

AndyB. · Sep 11, 2014

It's a Motorcraft 2150a. Tag number was probably E57E-BA. Don't buy a rebuilt one, you'd be better off tracking down a motorcraft kit (CT-1466) and rebuild it or having it rebuilt.

One reason you're getting awful mileage is someone disconnected and put a vacuum cap on the enrichment valve; it must be running incredibly rich. Get a foot of 7/32 vacuum line and connect the enrichment valve to the port on the EGR spacer below it. If the enrichment valve won't hold vacuum, replace it with motorcraft part ce-106. Aftermarket enrichment valves are all over the place.

drsvox · Sep 11, 2014

i recommend rebuilding too...save yourself some money.

couple things:
-the enrichment valve comes in the rebuild kit, so don't buy separately.
-you'll need an 11mm box wrench to get the carb off its base.
-take lots of pictures so you know how to reconnect (especially the vacuum hoses).
-there are three plastic parts you need to be careful with: one on the accelerator pump rod, another on the idle cam (behind the choke), and the other is a small tab that sits under the air horn where the lever connects to the choke plate...they will probably all be very brittle.
-buy yourself a gallon (or two) of chem dip and soak the hell out of all metal parts
-replace the float (not included in the rebuild kit)
-download and follow the tech instructions on this site for rebuilding a 2150 (very thorough guide with lots of pictures)
-on the back of carb is a mixture feedback solenoid (with a 2-wire connector)...I don't know how long these things last, but yours looks aged and it's covered in oil/grease; not saying to replace, but a new one will cost around $60-$80.

with the carb off it's base, might be a decent time to go ahead and take a look at the EGR valve, and maybe put in a new throttle position sensor (pulling codes should tell you if there's something wrong with your TPS), you need to remove it anyway to soak the carb.

and ok: so maybe if you replace everything that I just pointed out you won't necessarily save yourself that much money over a $180 rebuilt...my bad...but that said: $180 seems awfully low for a rebuild, and you normally get what you pay for...

bbbc3 · Sep 12, 2014

Thanks for all the great advice. The vacuum port for the enrichment valve goes where? I see the capped of vacuum port in the front of the carburetor, where should it run from there? Also I'm not sure if this is helpful information but the two idle mixture screws at the front of the carb are turned way out. I'm screwed them back in and backed them out 1 1/2 turns to the recommended setting. The truck had a very hard time idling and kept dyeing. So I screwed them back out.

Here is a link to a rebuilt carb that another ranger station member praised in an older thread somewhere in this forum.

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=nd2817m

AndyB. · Sep 12, 2014

1 1/2 turns is not a good setting, I know the factory manual says that, as steps for a carb rebuild, but it is incorrect. I use the propane enrichment method to set idle mixture. The start point for this is 2 3/4 turns backed out. There is a warning that if you have to go in less than 2 1/4 or out more than 3 1/4 there is likely an internal carburetor malfunction.

The carburetor is bolted to an EGR spacer that sits between the carburetor and the intake manifold. There is a vacuum port on the front of this, maybe 3" directly below the enrichment value.

Ford carburetor rebuild kits did not include a power valve, due to the different calibrations that could be rebuilt with the same kit. If you buy an aftermarket kit, it's going to have a Holley 6.5 in/Hg valve, it will be a different design from the original, and the original style gasket will block (or at least occlude) the flow of fuel. The factory valve CE-106 (D5AZ-9A565-A) is set to open at 5-6 in/hg and has four holes that sit above the gasket to flow fuel. There is a later revision of the Motorcraft enrichment valve that is similar to the Holley included in today's rebuild kits, with two square ports to flow fuel--I would avoid these.

With rebuilt parts, there is a lot of consolidation of part numbers. You'll be better off sticking with the original carb, and original components.

bbbc3 · Sep 12, 2014

Would any of this explain the mysterious surge I get when driving? As I am driving i get short little periods of what feels like drag, then it smoothes out and drive normal then another short period of drag again. Like its surging.

AndyB. · Sep 12, 2014

Hard to guess, but I doubt it's directly related. It would definitely explain your bad mileage. I'm wondering if you bang on your convertor if it sounds like it's full of rocks.

Is this an automatic? Is the kick down linkage not connected? I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the throttle linkage in your pictures.

bbbc3 · Sep 12, 2014

AndyB. said:
Hard to guess, but I doubt it's directly related. It would definitely explain your bad mileage. I'm wondering if you bang on your convertor if it sounds like it's full of rocks.

Is this an automatic? Is the kick down linkage not connected? I'm trying to figure out what's going on with the throttle linkage in your pictures.

It is a manual.

If you look in the pictures attached, the linkage with an arrow just freely moves back and forth. You can see my maganetic wand freely moving it while the truck is running. The linkage labled 1 seems to control the throttle on this carb.

AndyB. · Sep 12, 2014

I believe that carburetor was originally on a vehicle with an automatic transmission.

Also, I don't believe your mixture control solenoid is connected. I bet if you push the electrical connector in, you'll hear it snap.

bbbc3 · Sep 15, 2014

AndyB. said:
I believe that carburetor was originally on a vehicle with an automatic transmission.

Also, I don't believe your mixture control solenoid is connected. I bet if you push the electrical connector in, you'll hear it snap.

AndyB thanks for all the advice on this carb. I ended up with the idle mixture screw backed out 2-1/4 turns after a few test runs. Also I connected the enrichment valve to the EGR spacer and I am already seeing a difference in the fuel mileage! I haven't run a full tank through this set up yet to get final mpg but the truck runs a lot smoother.

I do have one more question. The truck idles very high. I don't have a tach to see the RPMs but it feels really high. I tried to back off the idle screw on the throttle cable side but it isn't even touching the throttle, so it is idled as low as it can be at that point. Any other methods to get the idle down? Does this have to do with it being a carb for an automatic?

Thanks,

kimcrwbr1 · Sep 15, 2014

The idle speed is controlled by the computer. One thing you need to do is confirm all the vacuum lines are correct and not plugged clean them all out with a can of WD the vacuum diagram should be on the radiator support toward the cebter. Reset the computer and make sure all of the sensers are connected before you start the motor. Disconnect the battery neg terminal for at least half an hour while you clean and connect all the wiring. The compouter is real sensitive if you run it without or with a bad senser it will immediately go into limp mode. The idle speed screw for that carb is called the anti diesel screw when you give it throttle the idle control motor should fully retract. After the motor is fully warmed up the choke should be fully open? Have someone open the throttle to 2000 rpms and disconnect the idle control motor after it fully retracts. Then let it idle the antidiesel screw can now be set for around 650 rpms. Plug the idle control motor back in and it shoud then control the idle around 700 rpms. If you dont have to pass smog now would be the time to duraspark it you may never get the computer to work properly!

kimcrwbr1 · Sep 15, 2014

Oh yea to adjust the idle air needles set them out three full turns and get the engine to idle good then disconnect the idle speed motor and adjust the needles for the highest lean rpms or vacuum pressure. One at a time turn them out for the highest possible rpms then in until the rpms just begins to drop slightly for both. The computer should hold the rpms between 675-700 rpms.

AndyB. · Sep 15, 2014

There are three idle speeds that need to be set, I'm not sure how you'll get them set without a tach.

There are a few situations that can cause high idles. There was a tsb about the original throttle position sensors. You can get a Motorcraft sensor (CX-1134) from RockAuto for $18. Since your sensor is physically broken, it might not be a bad thing to replace. A failed engine coolant temperature sensor could also cause this. The original Ford part number is E1AZ-12A648-A (DY-303). You can get one from NOS Parts Ltd for $18. I've had bad luck with aftermarket sensors, the resistance readings are not in line with the factory parts. The third cause is vacuum leaks.

A lot of the engine controls on these run off vacuum. There is a vacuum reservoir, which looks like a coffee can, that can rust and no longer hold vacuum. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up a hand operated vacuum pump and check everything to see what has a blown diaphragm.

I don't think your high idle is related to that linkage, but I'm not sure what it is. Did you plug the mixture control solenoid in all the way?

Aside from the vacuum checks, I'd wait until you pull the codes before replacing anything.

kimcrwbr1 · Sep 15, 2014

Actually there are two idle speeds you can adjust. Curb idle first once you get the engine running good and is up to normal temp turn off the engine. The throttle motor should fully extend. Unplug the motor and start the motor that is curb idle set it around 1200-1300 rpms by adjusting the position of the motor. Lock it down and then plug in the idle control motor and the computer should take over the idle speed. The next is high idle and can only be adjusted when the engine is cold and the choke is closed. The adjustment screw is under the choke thermostat pointing straight back toward the firewall. All ways keep the intake air temp plugged in when running the motor. If the computer dont have all the inputs it will quickly go into limp mode and just lock out timing advance and run at 10 DBTDC full time. Allways disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour if you change/clean or run the engine with a senser disconnected.

AndyB. · Sep 15, 2014

The other idle speed is set with the idle speed control plunger retracted (anti-dieseling speed) is 750.

With idle speed control plunger fully extended and disconnected, bracket is set to 2k rpm.

Fast idle is set to 3,000 rpm (EGR vacuum hose disconnected and plugged). You can manually set the throttle on the highest step of the fast idle cam. This adjustment should be made on a warmed up engine.

It's hard to do any of these without a tach.

What Carb do I have?

Active Member

Active Member

Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals