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350 Conversion Help


Chase333

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I have a 1993 Ranger with a manual tranny. I have pulled Moore and tranny and have sold them. I want to go back with a 350 votec. MONEY IS NOT ISSUE!
There are a few things I can’t rap my mind around on doing
•I want to switch to a automatic tranny if possible but which one and how would the electrician work like the neutral safety switch and stuff . Or what Manuel tranny would work?

•Would I have to switch to a Chevy rearend?

•Is it even possible to have A/C? If so how?

•Then electrical things like gauges how would those rename working ?
Would I need computer harness from another vehicle or could it still work with stock ?



So pretty much the electrical stuff on tranny and getting gauges to still work is what I’m hung up on. And forgot to mention going to carb it to keep that part simple . Anything else I’m not thinking of let me here it!!!
 


bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
get an ls engine.



if your starting from nill and money is not an issue, an ls platform engine is the ideal.



cheap. easy. power. fair economy.
 

RangerFabWorks

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Pretty much what Bobby said.

But!!!

700r4 is easiest to bolt in. Look for a 91 up model. They were converted to using a 1 wire lockup for the torque converter.

Get an 8.8 from a ranger. And depending on your power level. Put a locker in it. No need for a Chevy rear

Gauges. Forget it. Easier to swap to a set of dolphin or speedway gauges. 200 bucks gets you 6 gauges and all the senders.

Otherwise. Dump the computer. It only runs the engine and fuel system. Delete the intank pump. Get a frame mounted unit. Go down to the plug and your clutch pedal. Find the hot when you crank the key. Run that to the starter solenoid. Find a hot wire that’s hot with key on and cranking. Run that to your distributor. Take the factory power wire from the starter solenoid. Run that to he battery. And your engine is wired.
 

RonD

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Money is never an issue :)
But physical dimensions are, like gravity it always rears its ugly head, lol.

Fords 5.0l(302) is 19" wide, 27.5" long and 21" high

And it barely fits in Ranger engine bay

Chevy 350 is 20" wide, 29.5" long and 22" high

LS1 is 24.75" wide, 29" long and 28.25" high

That extra 5" width with LS1 will require you to remove heater box and move steering shaft over, probably have to run exhaust outside the frame rail
And at least a 5" body lift, better with 6", to fit it under the hood

The 350 would fit better
 

bobbywalter

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Make / Model
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Engine Type
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Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
when i disassembled an ls engine for the first time and looked at it..i was astounded. it was everything i wish i could do to a 351 to make it mo-betta.

so i really appreciate them to hop up the rbv platform. most guys hate them and just label me a ls nutswinger cause i would rather take the easy way out and use one of these then build...well...you will have to build any other old junkyard engine for sure to get to the stock levels of these.

small, light and more power then any out of the junkyard ford anything pushrod. more support then you can shake a stick at....cost effective stick at that.











Money is never an issue :)
But physical dimensions are, like gravity it always rears its ugly head, lol.

Fords 5.0l(302) is 19" wide, 27.5" long and 21" high

And it barely fits in Ranger engine bay

Chevy 350 is 20" wide, 29.5" long and 22" high

LS1 is 24.75" wide, 29" long and 28.25" high

That extra 5" width with LS1 will require you to remove heater box and move steering shaft over, probably have to run exhaust outside the frame rail
And at least a 5" body lift, better with 6", to fit it under the hood

The 350 would fit better

ron d....you are a ranger ninja when going by the book..

i have some absolutes.

absolutely you and asdm and a few others i should take the time to name are stellar for this site. total blessings. i am very grateful for you guys.

absolutely a ls engine will fit in a ranger without any of the issues your stating.

how one chooses to package things has a great deal as to the perceptions of fit....a 302 in my truck always looked tiny. because they are tiny. a 4.0 cammer makes a 302 look tiny....

anyway...you are top shelf to me. please do not think i am talking down to you or trying to insult you guys.



of course there are some epic fawktards even more then myself running around here to....some with engineering degrees no less that dont know shit about the ACTUAL WHAT REALLY HAPPENS WORLD. totally mis-apply math/physics and other facts.... because they have never built an engine and dyno tuned it or swapped a big block into something a big block never was installed in from the factory...




you have hard facts. the known dimensions you have stated are fairly accurate. i dont know your complete background, but it is obvious you have not performed any of these swaps. because those dimensions are fine...but if you look close at the 24-26 inch wide ls prints you will see the difference and variance is the plug wires being measured..22-24 is an actual and where that make dimension is never effects the booster or steering anyway.



this is what my rangers engine looks like next to a 350. which is essentially the same as the ls...








its a great big fat stinky bastard. an over the rail steering box is the ideal for sure, but not absolutely necessary. in a sas truck it is an easy swap...

fitting it in a ttb will definitely require oil pan mods and an expensive starter....will not be an easy swap...but doable. a tib truck will be easier for obvious reasons of the k member.

regardless... an ls engine by comparison is a bolt in.





in 2000 or so i put a ls camaro engine in a ranger chassis...but it was already setup as a race truck that originally had a 351... so it dont really count because it was caged, racked, and linked out back and had not had a heater in it or more then one seat in years...guy was just trying to make the best of his wrecked camaro daily driver and his old blown up race truck. he actually reflanged the longtube exhaust system it had with the ford engine and reused it...


about a year and a half after that i put a 01 6.0 from a almost new wrecked savanna in a jeep, based on what i had seen, it looked like a bolt in for a non ac ranger tib truck... at that time there was no swap support like there is now....it was a big project for me.

to this day i have never got to do a full body ranger truck with one. or a 5.4 ford.. but they started turning up. and up...and up. i have seen more ls rangers on the road then 351 rangers.

certain manifolds are cast steel and easy to cut and weld at home with a bucket of sand... and if you dont want to do that, there are nice aftermarket cast units available i would like to try for myself ...

i have seen the hooker units in many applications the last 5-6 years. so its actually easier then a 351 swap in every way possible....
the 302 swap in only easier in the late model sla trucks.


this guy did a very interesting set of solutions and has a thread right here ,

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175450

i know i would have set it up totally different as it could have been much easier, especially after studying the work and talking with several other builders over the years....but this guy did it his own way and its really awesome and interesting.... low dollar fun with some serious creativity.














these guys at turnkey are pretty good

....http://bdturnkeyengines.com/engine-dimensions/


a pic from them...







and pace performance offer detailed stuff as well https://paceperformance.com/p-3990-engine-dimensions.html





there are more variables to any swap then i care to think about.


and as much as i love the 302....its the last choice for v8 power i would think about today for a low buckswap for max value based on what is readily available.
 

RonD

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Nice write up bobby :)

I will stand corrected on the dimensions
 

Chase333

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Pretty much what Bobby said.

But!!!

700r4 is easiest to bolt in. Look for a 91 up model. They were converted to using a 1 wire lockup for the torque converter.

Get an 8.8 from a ranger. And depending on your power level. Put a locker in it. No need for a Chevy rear

Gauges. Forget it. Easier to swap to a set of dolphin or speedway gauges. 200 bucks gets you 6 gauges and all the senders.

Otherwise. Dump the computer. It only runs the engine and fuel system. Delete the intank pump. Get a frame mounted unit. Go down to the plug and your clutch pedal. Find the hot when you crank the key. Run that to the starter solenoid. Find a hot wire that’s hot with key on and cranking. Run that to your distributor. Take the factory power wire from the starter solenoid. Run that to he battery. And your engine is wired.
So does the transmission not need any kind of computer? For the seloniods
or neutral safety? Try to dumb it down for me lol
 

bobbywalter

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Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
thats the nice part of the 700...and also the bad part of the 700. it is hydro mech for the most part. with minor engagements for switching.



for a mechanical automatic overdrive i would rather hop up a ford AOD no wires.
 

RangerFabWorks

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302
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700r4 (not to be confused with the later 4l60 models) requires no computer to function. the only wiring you need is for the lockup converter. if you want to be fancy, painless sells a kit so its hassle free. easy way? wire it to a toggle switch. going to cruise on the highway for a while, flip the switch. lock the converter. trans stays nice and cool. for around town. converter lockup isnt needed.

look for a 91-up transmission. from a camaro, firebird, 4.3 s-10, anything like that. they have better internals and are setup for 1 wire lockup for the converter.

if memory serves. the corvette 700 is a tad shorter.
 

Chase333

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What about a 350 Transmission? Is there any electrical on that?
And what about the 4l60e ive heard there is some kind of stand alone computer? If somebody can explain.
 

RangerFabWorks

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turbo 350 requires no wiring. just the kickdown linkage hooked to the carb

4l60/4l80, you can purchase a stand alone computer to make them work, 4l60 is the better choice. 4l80 case is a bit large for the ranger tunnel.


ILL BREAK DOWN TRANSMISSIONS FOR YOU. FROM SIMPLEST. TO THE MOST COMPLEX.

POWERGLIDE. 2-speed transmission. no wiring. simple kickdown hookup

TURBO 350. no wiring. simple kickdown hookup.

TURBO 400- requires a special kick down setup.

2004R- Later model units are 1 wire lock up to lock converter

700R4- Later model units are 1 wire hookup to lock converter

4l60- Some of the earlier units are just updated 700R4's. 1 wire hookup for lockup.

4L60E. requires a standalone computer to operate.

4L80E. requires a standalone computer. will require transmission tunnel modification.

HERES THE CONTROLLER YOU WILL NEED FOR EITHER THE 4L60 OR THE 4L80. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-66501/overview/
 
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