Swap - No start questions

markinms · Mar 3, 2018

87 BII 4X4, 5.0L, AOD

I need help with a few issues, please:

1. Cranks but no start. Tried to pull codes but cannot. Tried to pull with a test light at the test connector, tried to pull with a code reader, and tried to pull at the check engine light. What would prevent me from being able to pull codes?

2. Checked EEC relay; ok. Checked Fuel Pump relay; not ok. Checked voltage to coil; ok. No spark from coil or to plugs. Had Ignition Control Module on distributor checked; bad and replaced. No change. Changed PIP sensor; FP relay now works and I have spark (New distributor I bought on Amazon was crap). Still no start but am getting some "popping" from the exhaust.

3. When testing the PIP signal at the distributor, using an LED light, I noticed the following: with key off, and light attached, the light comes on; with key on the light goes off; with engine cranking, the light "blinks" on and off as it should. Does this sound right?

4. My BII originally had a manual transmission. I now have an AOD automatic trans. To send power to the AOD Neutral Safety Switch, I simply inserted a fuse into the Clutch Pedal Position switch connector. Is there anything else from the old clutch system I need to be concerned with?

5. Finally, I'm using exhaust manifolds from a 98 Explorer. No exhaust beyond the manifolds at this time. Will I damage the engine by starting it without a complete exhaust system?

Thanks for any help/suggestions you can offer.

Mark

RonD · Mar 3, 2018

You can run an engine with just exhaust manifolds, the concern is when you shut it off, cold air can come in and warp hot exhaust valves that are open.
You will often see dragsters that use short header pipes get plugs dropped into the pipes after running, this is done to prevent that, not a big concern but just mentioning it.
After 5 minutes of running engine may starts to run poorly with no O2 sensor feedback to EEC

Spray gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake then try to start
If it starts and dies then fuel injectors are not working(assuming fuel pressure is good)
Crank engine over a few times and pull a spark plug out and see if it is WET with fuel, it should be if injectors are working

If it doesn't start, maybe just "pops", then spark is the problem.
You can install a distributor "backwards", 180deg off, which would give you "popping" but no start.
Pull off distributor cap, mark rotors location
Pull up distributor and rotate rotor 180deg, then reinstall, must be exactly 180deg from mark, assuming you already timed it using TDC
It would still need to be timed using timing light with SPOUT connector removed

Yes, PIP is the pulse that comes from TFI module to the EEC-IV that is used to time fuel injectors, so should go on and off while cranking

What year is the V8 EEC-IV computer?

markinms · Mar 3, 2018

Thanks for the feedback.

Computer is an A9P from a 1989 Mustang.

I'll double check distributor to check whether it's 180 deg off.

I may wait till exhaust system is installed before running (hopefully this coming week). Would really be a bummer to warp exhaust valves after all the work that's been done.

Mark

deathbypsi · Mar 3, 2018

So is this a new swap that has never run yet? Or has the 5.0 run before in this truck?

Problems I have seen are in the wiring of the TFI to the chassis wiring. The two plugs that would go next to the master cylinder have the 12v ignition wires for the TFI. It gets two 12v sources,one is key on 12v and the other is crank only 12v. Make sure the one that needs power while cranking is getting power, I believe its a red with blue stripe.

RonD · Mar 3, 2018

1989 would use 2-digit OBD1 codes

Good article here on retrieving them from mustang EEC: http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

markinms · Mar 5, 2018

deathbypsi said:
So is this a new swap that has never run yet? Or has the 5.0 run before in this truck?

Problems I have seen are in the wiring of the TFI to the chassis wiring. The two plugs that would go next to the master cylinder have the 12v ignition wires for the TFI. It gets two 12v sources,one is key on 12v and the other is crank only 12v. Make sure the one that needs power while cranking is getting power, I believe its a red with blue stripe.

This is a new swap that has never run yet.

I'll double check the 12v sources you mentioned and retest at the TFI connector.

I was getting fuel and spark, then i wasn't. Tested PIP signal at TFI connector and that was good. Tested the coil signal wire and it was not. Everything I've read says that indicates the TFI module is bad. Just put a new one in (from Autozone). Checking to see if my wiring job is grounding something out.

Also, going back to my first question, does anyone know what would prevent me from being able to pull computer codes? Nothing I do works. That may help me identify where the problem is coming from.

Thanks for your help!

Mark

Swap - No start questions

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