Looses RPMS When Warm (couldnt blow it up warm if i wanted)

vpcoded · Mar 8, 2010

Truck status. ! 87 4x4 ranger 2.9. Work preformed I know of. Top end gaskets all replaced (prev owner) New gas tank (prev owner) He also stated the plugs wire and oil had been changed in the not distant past. I belive the truck sat a few months due to the oil pump being out so he parked it.. I purchased for 500 and had it towed to the house and replaced the oil pump as well as another oil/filter change. The truck then would run great untill warm about 30 min or one trip to my gate and back it will start loosing RPMs 4 or 5 grand is about all i will push it when idleing when i first start the trip the truck will run fine i will shift at about 3 or 4 grand by the time oim on the way back all the RPMs i can pull are 2 grand in any gear and neut there for i have to shift at 2 to keep gaining speed but on hills ect im dead in the water creeping at 2 grand in 1st or to the point it will no longer pull at all.
I have been searching fourms and came across this one http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74056
and follwed his fix replaced the MAP sensor i continued to have the same problem with the cats getting hot so i grabed the saw zaw and off they came i still have the RPM loss with no cats. I pulled the O2 sensor last night same thing this morning. I am going to check the enigne coolant sensor and thermastat here in a bit. Any other help info on this would be help full. I also thought i may have a cracked head or gastek as well due to white smoke coming from oil cap and PVC valve area and kinda sweet smell as well but i accidently left my overflow take unhooked lost alot of fluid added some water to keep test driving and it was drove like that twice a day for prob like 20 30 mins till i loose RPMs and it no longer can get me home lol. Last night while thinking about the head i went and drained the rad fluid to see if i have lost in in those days roughly 4 hrs driving combined and there was close or no fluid loss. Can i assume i am ok or atleast not in that bad of shape in that area. (also the tac gets jumpy/erratic at times while running ok )

IMenriched · Mar 8, 2010

vpcoded said:
Truck status. ! 87 4x4 ranger 2.9. Work preformed I know of. Top end gaskets all replaced (prev owner) New gas tank (prev owner) He also stated the plugs wire and oil had been changed in the not distant past. I belive the truck sat a few months due to the oil pump being out so he parked it.. I purchased for 500 and had it towed to the house and replaced the oil pump as well as another oil/filter change. The truck then would run great untill warm about 30 min or one trip to my gate and back it will start loosing RPMs 4 or 5 grand is about all i will push it when idleing when i first start the trip the truck will run fine i will shift at about 3 or 4 grand by the time oim on the way back all the RPMs i can pull are 2 grand in any gear and neut there for i have to shift at 2 to keep gaining speed but on hills ect im dead in the water creeping at 2 grand in 1st or to the point it will no longer pull at all.
I have been searching fourms and came across this one http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74056
and follwed his fix replaced the MAP sensor i continued to have the same problem with the cats getting hot so i grabed the saw zaw and off they came i still have the RPM loss with no cats. I pulled the O2 sensor last night same thing this morning. I am going to check the enigne coolant sensor and thermastat here in a bit. Any other help info on this would be help full. I also thought i may have a cracked head or gastek as well due to white smoke coming from oil cap and PVC valve area and kinda sweet smell as well but i accidently left my overflow take unhooked lost alot of fluid added some water to keep test driving and it was drove like that twice a day for prob like 20 30 mins till i loose RPMs and it no longer can get me home lol. Last night while thinking about the head i went and drained the rad fluid to see if i have lost in in those days roughly 4 hrs driving combined and there was close or no fluid loss. Can i assume i am ok or atleast not in that bad of shape in that area. (also the tac gets jumpy/erratic at times while running ok )

make sure that your grounds are good! might help with the tach & runabilty

it maybe the TFI or ignition module going out

have you done a compression test??
Is the PVC valve working?

Big Jim M · Mar 8, 2010

It ain't only CATS that get stopped up! Mufflers do that silly thing commonly! While the cats were off did you run it to see if it did better..
Does it MISS OUT? Or does it just slow down? Missing could be a fuel filter.. Slowing down would be exhaust unable to get out, or poor air filtering, unable to get air..
Big Jim

vpcoded · Mar 8, 2010

I am currently running it with no cats or muff a section missing in my exaust where the 2 cats used to be. I am going to do a compression test tommorow.

PVC valve is working (my check is shake it if it rattles it works is this correct.

havnt check TFI will google what/where it is located and check that .

Dose comepression problems happen when warmed up ? I can not bog it down in 4 low climbing a very steep hill while warmish. It will just spin all 4 tires till i back off. this hill is by far to much for me to climb with my truck just wanted to see how it was.

I want to say it has / gets a miss in it but it is hard to tell if it is a miss or just the lack of cats lol I almost wanted to say it back fired as well but could not tell if its just popping from open exaust or what. motor seems strong untill warm.

vpcoded · Mar 9, 2010

A little more info on the issue.
1. getting a compression gauge today will take those reading this evening.

2. Trying to figure out how to get codes using this fourm-http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html
what would be the most cost saving route and what is needed or am i missing a read in there some where.

3. I have unplugged the coolant sensor with no help.

4. It still seems when i start loosing my RPM's that the motor is not able to exaust could i have some a timing issues that would not display its self untill running roughtly 8 to 10 miles ?

Psychopete · Mar 9, 2010

Use a piece of wire or paper clip to jumper the "STI" Self Test Input and the terminal on the diagnostic plug as indicated on that page.

Next use a test light or analog volt meter, ground goes to the "STO" self test output and the positive goes to the positive battery terminal.

Turn the key on run, hop out, and watch the light blink or meter sweep.

You'll get fast codes,
KOEO codes (hard faults), repeated,
separator pulse,
CM (store memory codes), repeated,
end

Also run KOER as outlined on the page.

Best bet might be to start over since some sensors have been unhooked and have thrown CM codes which may alter your diagnosis.

What you do to clear codes is pull the jumper from the STI while the CM codes are output to clear CM codes.

After you clear the memory codes, drive until it start messing up and that point should have more info. Then you could pull KOER while the engine is already warm after running through the KOEO tests on a fresh slate.

Pete

vpcoded · Mar 9, 2010

thank you for the reply on the codes a test light = (like a outlet tester that lights up when power is ran threw it ?) or somthing that i need to grab at auto store ? what i have doing to clear unreadcodes just to see if when i unplug a sensor ispull bat cable.

IMenriched · Mar 9, 2010

vpcoded said:
thank you for the reply on the codes a test light = (like a outlet tester that lights up when power is ran threw it ?) or somthing that i need to grab at auto store ? what i have doing to clear unreadcodes just to see if when i unplug a sensor ispull bat cable.

try this on for size
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

vpcoded · Mar 10, 2010

i think i pulled these codes right but am un sure i didnt get a fast set of coded when first started but these 31 14 41 all fit my truck running lean i know im having some ignition issues . I dont know ne thing about evp sensor

vpcoded · Mar 10, 2010

things i purchased to do tonight while doing the compression test im doing new plugs wires cap and rotor adding oil press gauge also grabbed a new selonid i sold the escort i have a little more money to throw at it if any one brain storms something it dose get a back fire when tring to push it formore RPMS after they are lost. like going down hill pushes it and it will back fire

Rangers4two · Mar 21, 2010

I had this happen once. I tuned up the truck with new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. After performing the tune up, the truck started and ran fine, could hear a slight miss, but nothing horrible. While test driving the truck, it wouldn't pull at all, and the longer it ran, the worse it got and the cats would get so hot they turned red. As bad as I hate to admit it, I had a couple of the wires crossed on the cap, may not hurt to check that.

Big Jim M · Mar 21, 2010

Rangerdude

Rangers4two said:
I had this happen once. I tuned up the truck with new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. After performing the tune up, the truck started and ran fine, could hear a slight miss, but nothing horrible. While test driving the truck, it wouldn't pull at all, and the longer it ran, the worse it got and the cats would get so hot they turned red. As bad as I hate to admit it, I had a couple of the wires crossed on the cap, may not hurt to check that.

No need to be embarrased.. Anyone that has done a few tunes has mixed up the wires a time or two..
Big JIm :hottubfun:

vpcoded · Mar 22, 2010

I have wondered several times if i have like 2 wire crossed i have checked firing order and belive that they are in correct rotation so i changed the TFI moduel but did not replace the pick up aka PIP aka hall effect sensor inside dizz. I picked it up last night this am i pulled the cap took roter out and the metal cap that the rotor seats in under there is a round plate that i need to remove to get to the pick up how dose this come off ? any help

Big Jim M · Mar 22, 2010

Carefully!

vpcoded said:
I have wondered several times if i have like 2 wire crossed i have checked firing order and belive that they are in correct rotation so i changed the TFI moduel but did not replace the pick up aka PIP aka hall effect sensor inside dizz. I picked it up last night this am i pulled the cap took roter out and the metal cap that the rotor seats in under there is a round plate that i need to remove to get to the pick up how dose this come off ? any help

You take the cap off and then bump the starter till the rotor is pointed at the #1 wire in the cap..
Then you PULL the dist.. Then on a bench you punch the drift pin OUT of the gear.. Then it all slides out of the housing and you replace the sensor.. Then you put it all back togther and renistall and then time it properly..
That's the only way to do that job.
Big JIm :hottubfun:

vpcoded · Mar 22, 2010

thankyou for the quick responce big jim guess im going out to do it now

Looses RPMS When Warm (couldnt blow it up warm if i wanted)

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