EGR and O2 "Not Ready" during emissions.

So I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6, I've been taking it to emissions, shops, and have done tons of driving and drive cycles, but it still will not read "Ready". I'm not sure what the deal is. I have no CEL, and there's no codes pending during testing. I've been trying to figure it out for about three months now, and I'm honestly getting quite frustrated that I, and the people around me, have no clue what the problem is. Has anyone ever had this problem? If so, how did you fix it?

here check this out...
i know it says it is for gm but i think all the testing is the same (ob2 specific)
General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Reprinted on OBDII web site courtesy of General Motors Corporation
© General Motors Corporation

You think the GM one could work?
I did the Ford specific one from the OBDII website countless times, and still nothing. Every guy at emissions testing and state says the same thing "Drive cycle". It's no help. I heard that the DPFE sensor is the cause of quite a bit of EGR related emission problems when testing. If that sensor is bad, would it trip a code? I just need one more to become "ready" in order to pass. I've spent three months and quite a bit of money trying to fix this. And it sucks because Arizona emissions will not give waivers for "Not Ready" vehicles, only "Failed" vehicles.

yes a dpfe sensor throws a code and it will run kinda bad.... witch one's do you still have not completed?

Okay, I figured it would throw a code. I have the EGR, O2 Sensor, and heated O2 still showing "Not Ready" as they have since I got it tested early September. I had a Jet Performance chip in, until I read it really screws up the computer. I've had my computer tested since I took it out to see if it was still okay, and there were no problems found, I've done ~400 miles of driving since I took it off. Still "Not Ready"

sometime it requires a certaint amount of gas... like less thn half for a evap.... i think it is over three quarters for cats but i am unsure

The evap and cat are fine, the pass everytime. It's the EGR and O2 I need.

To keep everyone posted, I have a dealership working on it. They got it to say "Ready" at the shop, but when taking it to emissions, it said "Not Ready", so all the drive cycle were clearing it, but the KAM wasn't storing it.

Can the KAM be fixed w/o getting a whole new PCM? The dealership said I needed a new PCM, but everywhere else I took it and had it looked at said the PCM was working properly.

The computer will not tell on itself. Go to autozone i bought a ecm for about 275.00 usd. It is the best price i could find.