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#1 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Couer d'Alene ID
Year: 1983
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.8l v6
Class: 4 x 4
Used For: Driveway hog and dd
Posts: 19
Rep Power: 0 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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I have a 1983 Ford Ranger 4wd with a 2.8l v6, 2 barrel carburetor, and 4 speed manual transmission.
I got the truck from a 90 year old man who bought it used in 1998 and had some work done over the next couple years. In 1999 he had the Carburetor overhauled with a new fuel filter and air filter. the rear differential was serviced as well as a 22 point service check that noted - "antifreeze -35 removal drips tamper seal plugs" I have yet to decipher the previous notes. He had the starter, spark plugs, cap, rotor and wires replaced in 2000. Since October 2011 I replaced (in order) the fuel pump, master and slave clutch cylinders as well as the hydraulic line. From May 2012 on I put in a new clutch kit with the pivot bearing and resurfaced the flywheel, a new u-joint on the rear front drive line and bought both u-joints for the front drive line but haven't installed it yet. I dumped all of the stale gas out of the tank and blew air through the line from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the filter as well as took the filter off and blew through it. after all this the pump I replaced last October went bad and I warranty replaced it . I then refilled the tank with middle grade fuel and seafoam as well as stp brand octane booster and gas treatment. I topped off the power steering fluid and I did an oil change and replaced the filter. I also replaced the muffler and the rest of the exhaust is original as it is pretty much solid rust. I still have the receipts from the previous owner and found one from 2000 that shows a "possible blown head gasket or cracked head. #1 cylinder has antifreeze leaking into it". This is the same receipt for the wires, cap, rotor and plugs. That worries me cause the truck runs great for the first few miles, then slowly the sound gets from bad to worse. I had the guy who resurfaced the flywheel listen to it idle in neutral after a 10 mile drive and he noticed "valve noise", but said the engine sounds normal otherwise. It seem like on the longer trips I take, the truck looses power. I also recently loaded up the bed and a trailer with 3 round trips at ten miles per round trip weighing between 500 to 800 pounds per load. after emptying the bed and unhooking the trailer, it sounds almost as bad as if I never replaced the muffler. I don't know what steps to take next. Can anyone offer advise? |
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#2 |
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Lab Rat for V.A. hospital
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Orleans (8' below sea level & sinking)
Year: 1989/1936
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: V-8...Carbed/fo-barrel
Class: 2WD Street
Used For: FUN on a daily basis!
Posts: 11,803
Rep Power: 72 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (0)
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Do a cylinder compression check or have someone do the check...
write down the reading on each cylinder--draw a diagram if you have to remember for future reference.... let us know the readings on each cylinder....
__________________
*******My Stupied Build Thred! http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=30561******* *****All the people who's freedom of speech I fought to defend are now telling me to shut up***** **********The Congress that gave me a Machine Gun to kill as many enemy as possible now wants my Winchester Model 1894 because I have PTSD!********** |
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#3 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Missouri
Year: '94, '86
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Thunderbird
Engine: 2.3T
Class: 2wd Street
Used For: Enlightenment of the soul.
Posts: 2,731
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (5)
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Do like Doorgunner said, but while you're doing that, check the valve lash between the rockers and the top of the valves.
If someone adjusted them to where the gap isn't there, then that could be a problem. |
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#4 | |
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Tracked and Locked
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northumberland, PA
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: What engine?
Class: 4x4
Used For: Elevenses
Posts: 19,000
Rep Power: 96 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (13)
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Yeah, I am all for compression and valve lash checks as well.
One other thing though. You tell us it has a noise, I didn't see where you describe the noise. Telling us you have "a noise" and giving no other information about it is like going to the doc and saying "it hurts" without giving any indication of what hurts.
__________________
Project: Hillbilly Deluxe Project: Amazing Grace Project: 12-Volt Sandwich Quote:
HELP REPEAL OBAMACARE Looking for 95-98 manual trans pedal bracket. Conducting an experiment for the betterment of all Ranger-kind. |
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#5 |
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Couer d'Alene ID
Year: 1983
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 2.8l v6
Class: 4 x 4
Used For: Driveway hog and dd
Posts: 19
Rep Power: 0 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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The noise is a chugging sound, and when i let go or accelerate the gas pedal it chugs and pops. Hope that helps. I will get back to you on the compression check and the valve lash, I am learning how to repair vehicles with this as well as buying tools, so cash is low right now. I do have the chiltons and hayes books, but they aren't too newbie friendly. Also I was debating on using some blue devil head gasket sealer, the pour and go stuff. Think that will work? And I also forgot to let you know the truck sat unused under trees for at least 4-5 years before I got it.
Last edited by orange1983ranger; 07-01-2012 at 11:07 PM. Reason: adding information |
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