D28 outter bearing nuts.

This is on an 86 b2 d28. I was rotating my tires. And I felt some play on my pass front tire. So I look at the bearings and whatnot. The outter nut is loose. And in inner bearing nut was loose. Not haveing the wright tool to tighten them. I got a screw driver and hammer. I didnt go crazy tighting them. But, when I tighted them down pretty good. The hub was very hard to turn. So I backed off alil till it was alil ez to turn. I put it all back together. Wheel/tire back on. No play. But after looking at my Haynes book. I seam to be missing a few things. I didnt have the needle thrust bearing, that it shows in the book. And, what locks the nuts? Just jaming them together?

And I could move the shaft around. Is this because the lock hub centers it?

You need to go to the local parts store that rents tools (any will do) and tell them you need a wheel bearing socket for a BII, Dana 28 front end. It'll look like a big cup with 4 prongs on it.

You will not be able to get the nuts properly tightened without that tool. The inner nut spec (the one that goes up against the bearing race) is around 15-20 INCH pounds. It's actually frighteningly loose, but it's what it's supposed to be. Basically tighten down the bearing so it's fairly tight, rotate the brake rotor a few times, back the nut off, and just let the weight of the wrench handle set it up against the bearing race, MAYBE a light tap with your finger, and that's it, you're done, leave it alone.

The outer nut (the one that will act like a jam nut on the first one), needs torqued to at the very LEAST 160ft lbs. Even then they rattle loose and some have taken to cranking them to 200 or 220+ ft lbs. This is indeed what keeps them from coming apart.

Needle thrust bearing? I don't recall this part, though it's been a number of years since I was into a D35, or is this a D28 specific part? The only needle roller bearing I recall is the often overlooked one in the inner part of the spindle. Of course, who knows if I was also missing mine?

The shaft will have a little bit of movement, I guess the lock hub centers it in a way, but it shouldn't be doing all that much.

Thanks for ur reply! How do u keep the inner nut from turnng while u tighten the outer nut?
Thanks

There is a washer that goes between the nuts, it will have a little tab on the inner diameter to fit in the slot that is cut into the threads at the end of the spindle. That tab keeps it from spinning.

Captain Ledd said:

Needle thrust bearing? I don't recall this part, though it's been a number of years since I was into a D35, or is this a D28 specific part? The only needle roller bearing I recall is the often overlooked one in the inner part of the spindle. Of course, who knows if I was also missing mine?

Click to expand...

It's a D28-specific part (goes in the same spot as where the 'splined washer' is on a D35... Keeps the stub axle from backing out of the spindle).

Ah ha! Thank you for clearing that up.

Captain Ledd said:

The inner nut spec (the one that goes up against the bearing race) is around 15-20 INCH pounds. It's actually frighteningly loose, but it's what it's supposed to be. Basically tighten down the bearing so it's fairly tight, rotate the brake rotor a few times, back the nut off, and just let the weight of the wrench handle set it up against the bearing race, MAYBE a light tap with your finger, and that's it, you're done, leave it alone.

Click to expand...

Yes frightening loose. If I recall correctly, the "fairly tight" was something on the order of 25 ft-lbs. The wheel will be stiff to turn. Rotate the wheel a couple turns each way. This is the seat the bearing. Then back it off and re-torque to the INCH pounds mentioned above which is frighteningly tight. With my torque wrench I couldn't even feel the click. I dare say it may be possible to get it on too tight by hand without using a wrench.

Captain Ledd said:

The outer nut (the one that will act like a jam nut on the first one), needs torqued to at the very LEAST 160ft lbs. Even then they rattle loose and some have taken to cranking them to 200 or 220+ ft lbs. This is indeed what keeps them from coming apart.

Click to expand...

If I recall correctly, the inner nut should have a pin on that sticks outward. Then comes a washer with a whole bunch of holes. That washer has a notch that fits the notch in the spindle. The notch in the spindle prevents that washer from turning. The inner nut has to be rotated just enough from nominal torque point so the pin in the nut fits in one of the holes in that washer. Thus this washer prevents that scarey loose nut from rotating. Hence it is sometimes called the locking washer.

The outer nut as mentioned gets torqued very tight, 160 ft-lb sounds correct. It torques against the washer with the holes. Now that washer acts to prevent this outer nut from changing the position of the inner nut.

Sometimes the pin on the inner nut breaks. Then it is only the tightness between the two nuts that keeps the inner one from rotating. Fortunately that washer should still prevent the outer nut from causing the inner one to turn when torqueing the outer one.

I am not sure how stable it is from just the torque if the pin has broken off.

Captain Ledd said:

The inner nut spec (the one that goes up Needle thrust bearing? I don't recall this part, though it's been a number of years since I was into a D35, or is this a D28 specific part? The only needle roller bearing I recall is the often overlooked one in the inner part of the spindle. Of course, who knows if I was also missing mine?

Click to expand...

This link may be helpful

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/Dana_Ford_28.pdf

The thrust bearing is item 61 in the diagram.

Captain Ledd said:

The shaft will have a little bit of movement, I guess the lock hub centers it in a way, but it shouldn't be doing all that much.

Click to expand...

Mine had quite a bit of movement, the locking hub centered it.

The pin in the first nut that fits the locking washer is a press fit and can be pushed in flush if improperly installed. If so, use a pin punch and hammer it back out so it engages the locking washer.

Richard

Thanks for all the replys!! I did the loan a tool. For the 4 lug socket. Took it all down. And I found the pin on the inner nut was pushed in. By me im sure. SO just tapped it out alil from the other side. I have no TQ wrench. SO got the inner nut on hand tight. Then back off or tightened it to mate with lockwasher hole. Then I just tightened the outter nut as tight as I could get it, with braker bar. After putting wheel back on. I felt no slack or anything. So while I had the tool. I checked the other side. All was good there.
Thanks agin everybody!!!

Racenut said:

Thanks for all the replys!! I did the loan a tool. For the 4 lug socket. Took it all down. And I found the pin on the inner nut was pushed in. By me im sure. SO just tapped it out alil from the other side. I have no TQ wrench. SO got the inner nut on hand tight. Then back off or tightened it to mate with lockwasher hole. Then I just tightened the outter nut as tight as I could get it, with braker bar. After putting wheel back on. I felt no slack or anything. So while I had the tool. I checked the other side. All was good there.
Thanks agin everybody!!!

Click to expand...

Did you use wrench first time on inner nut to make it tight and rotate the wheel to seat the bearing?

I guess even if you didn't, perhaps your previously having it tight did that for you.

In any case it is tight and that sounds gool

ab_slack said:

Did you use wrench first time on inner nut to make it tight and rotate the wheel to seat the bearing?

I guess even if you didn't, perhaps your previously having it tight did that for you.

In any case it is tight and that sounds gool

Click to expand...

Yes i did tighten the inner nut 1st. Then spun the hub. Then I backed it off.