Bronco638
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2014
- Messages
- 258
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Chicago-land
- Vehicle Year
- 2001
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 3.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
I tried several searches and nothing really came up, either here or thru Google. So, I figured it out.
Original Poster: Bronco638
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time to install: 20 minutes
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation: How to remove/replace the PCV valve on a 2001 Ranger with 3.0 Vulcan V6 engine. This should work for other model year Rangers with the 3.0 Vulcan but I do not know the exact year ranges. If you have that big electrical connector, sitting on the rear of your intake manifold, this may help you.
Tools Needed:
- 8 mm wrench or 8 mm socket (1/4" drive works best but 3/8" is OK)
- 10 mm wrench or 10 mm socket (1/4" drive works best but 3/8" is OK)
- 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet, depending
- Flat blade screw driver
Parts Needed:
- PCV valve (Motorcraft #: EV-228-B or Ford #: F6DZ-6A666-EA)
- Electric contact cleaner (optional)
- Dielectric grease (optional)
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This work is (mostly) done from the perspective of the driver's side front fender, standing near the left front wheel/tire. If you have a 4x4, like me, you may need a step stool to reach everything.
Step 1: Loosen the 10 mm bolt (yellow arrow) that holds the wiring harness connector together. The bolt will not come out of the connector, it's captured. Swing the harness away and let it rest to the driver's side of the intake.
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Step 2: Remove the female connector from the support bracket. The lime green arrow indicates the support bracket. Use the flat bladed screw driver to gently push the locking tab (yellow arrow) to the left (forward). At the same time, pull the connector body towards you (working from the driver's side front fender). Rest the harness above the passenger side valve cover.
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Step 3: Remove the 8 mm bolt (yellow arrow) that's holding the support bracket to the intake. Slide the bracket towards the passenger side while still retaining the throttle cable (if that plastic clip hasn't broken).
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Step 4: The image shows the view from above, just aft of the intake manifold. Reach behind the intake and remove the vacuum line rubber elbow from the port on the intake manifold (yellow arrow). Be careful not to damage the rubber elbow. You should now have access to the PCV valve (from above). It is still obscured by the vacuum lines in this image.
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Step 5: Remove the PCV valve from the grommet in the driver's side valve cover. I was unable to remove the valve and plastic elbow from the vacuum hose. So, I simply removed the valve from the plastic elbow and then put the new valve into the old elbow. Replace the valve into the driver's side valve cover grommet.
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Step 6: Replace the vacuum line rubber elbow onto the vacuum port (above the PCV valve). Yellow arrow indicates the location of the rubber elbow.
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Step 7: Replace the support bracket onto the intake. Suggestion: Use some anti-seize to ensure that bolt (steel) does not corrode the intake (aluminum alloy) so it's removable in the future.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 8: Replace the female connector onto the support bracket. Ensure the connector slips onto the bracket and the locking tab "snaps" into place.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 9: Mate the two harness connector halves together and use the captured bolt to secure them. Suggestion: before re-assembly, use electrical contact cleaner on the pins and apply some dielectric grease to them. This will help deter corrosion.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 10: Start the truck to ensure you re-assembled everything properly.
---------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly, a PCV valve that still "rattles" should still be functional. However, they're pretty cheap and my old one had clearly seen better days.
Hope this helps.
Original Poster: Bronco638
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time to install: 20 minutes
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation: How to remove/replace the PCV valve on a 2001 Ranger with 3.0 Vulcan V6 engine. This should work for other model year Rangers with the 3.0 Vulcan but I do not know the exact year ranges. If you have that big electrical connector, sitting on the rear of your intake manifold, this may help you.
Tools Needed:
- 8 mm wrench or 8 mm socket (1/4" drive works best but 3/8" is OK)
- 10 mm wrench or 10 mm socket (1/4" drive works best but 3/8" is OK)
- 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet, depending
- Flat blade screw driver
Parts Needed:
- PCV valve (Motorcraft #: EV-228-B or Ford #: F6DZ-6A666-EA)
- Electric contact cleaner (optional)
- Dielectric grease (optional)
---------------------------------------------------------
This work is (mostly) done from the perspective of the driver's side front fender, standing near the left front wheel/tire. If you have a 4x4, like me, you may need a step stool to reach everything.
Step 1: Loosen the 10 mm bolt (yellow arrow) that holds the wiring harness connector together. The bolt will not come out of the connector, it's captured. Swing the harness away and let it rest to the driver's side of the intake.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 2: Remove the female connector from the support bracket. The lime green arrow indicates the support bracket. Use the flat bladed screw driver to gently push the locking tab (yellow arrow) to the left (forward). At the same time, pull the connector body towards you (working from the driver's side front fender). Rest the harness above the passenger side valve cover.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 3: Remove the 8 mm bolt (yellow arrow) that's holding the support bracket to the intake. Slide the bracket towards the passenger side while still retaining the throttle cable (if that plastic clip hasn't broken).
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 4: The image shows the view from above, just aft of the intake manifold. Reach behind the intake and remove the vacuum line rubber elbow from the port on the intake manifold (yellow arrow). Be careful not to damage the rubber elbow. You should now have access to the PCV valve (from above). It is still obscured by the vacuum lines in this image.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 5: Remove the PCV valve from the grommet in the driver's side valve cover. I was unable to remove the valve and plastic elbow from the vacuum hose. So, I simply removed the valve from the plastic elbow and then put the new valve into the old elbow. Replace the valve into the driver's side valve cover grommet.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 6: Replace the vacuum line rubber elbow onto the vacuum port (above the PCV valve). Yellow arrow indicates the location of the rubber elbow.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 7: Replace the support bracket onto the intake. Suggestion: Use some anti-seize to ensure that bolt (steel) does not corrode the intake (aluminum alloy) so it's removable in the future.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 8: Replace the female connector onto the support bracket. Ensure the connector slips onto the bracket and the locking tab "snaps" into place.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 9: Mate the two harness connector halves together and use the captured bolt to secure them. Suggestion: before re-assembly, use electrical contact cleaner on the pins and apply some dielectric grease to them. This will help deter corrosion.
---------------------------------------------------------
Step 10: Start the truck to ensure you re-assembled everything properly.
---------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly, a PCV valve that still "rattles" should still be functional. However, they're pretty cheap and my old one had clearly seen better days.
Hope this helps.